Welding crack
Moderator: Harold_V
Welding crack
Hi , friend , why welding cracking
Yesterday i weld (arc welding ) some iron plate 5mm , today i see they crack .
Yesterday i weld (arc welding ) some iron plate 5mm , today i see they crack .
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- warmstrong1955
- Posts: 3568
- Joined: Thu Mar 18, 2010 2:05 pm
- Location: Northern Nevada
Re: Welding crack
Without knowing what the plate is, or the wire:
You're runnin' too hot.
That's causing you to travel too fast.
And that's causing the weld to be much wider than its depth. Width & depth should be about the same.
I see a lot of spatter too. The rust I see is probably one of the causes for that.
You're runnin' too hot.
That's causing you to travel too fast.
And that's causing the weld to be much wider than its depth. Width & depth should be about the same.
I see a lot of spatter too. The rust I see is probably one of the causes for that.
Today's solutions are tomorrow's problems.
Re: Welding crack
I use 6013 rod , 150 A , the plate 5 mm , is it wrong ?
- warmstrong1955
- Posts: 3568
- Joined: Thu Mar 18, 2010 2:05 pm
- Location: Northern Nevada
Re: Welding crack
Is your machine AC or DC? And what diameter is the 6013 you are using? 150 amps is hot if it’s 1/8”, extremely hot if it’s 3/32”.
6013 works well with AC machines, but is a poor choice for penetration, and that looks like part of your problem.
6013 works well with AC machines, but is a poor choice for penetration, and that looks like part of your problem.
Today's solutions are tomorrow's problems.
Re: Welding crack
Perhaps use a 6011 rod for better penetration?
RussN
RussN
- warmstrong1955
- Posts: 3568
- Joined: Thu Mar 18, 2010 2:05 pm
- Location: Northern Nevada
Re: Welding crack
Definitely, and a much better choice with a crackerbox, than 6013.
Today's solutions are tomorrow's problems.
-
- Posts: 1955
- Joined: Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:10 pm
- Location: Farmington, NM
Re: Welding crack
Depending on the parent material, a little preheat always helps,
Re: Welding crack
It is 3/32 ( 2.5mm ) rod , and i use DC plant ( inventer type ) , I try 90 A but it sticks rod - what is the good , 130A , 140A ?
- warmstrong1955
- Posts: 3568
- Joined: Thu Mar 18, 2010 2:05 pm
- Location: Northern Nevada
Re: Welding crack
150 amps is above what you would run 1/8” 6013.
If you welded a full stick of 3/32” at 150 amps, it would start to glow red when about 1/2 the stick is used up.
Your weld looks to be too hot, and traveling too fast. Starts out OK, but as the metal your welding heats up, you started moving faster.
With a DC machine, 6010 or 5P is what I would use. The ‘P’ in 5 P stands for pipe, and it’s a good penetrating rod, unlike 6013.
Make sure you’re running DC reverse. (electrode positive)
Numbers on welders are only an indicator, and vary from one to the other. Can’t run at 90? Try 100. The weld is what tells you whether to turn the amps up or down, not the numbers on a dial. Grab some scrap plate and play.
If you welded a full stick of 3/32” at 150 amps, it would start to glow red when about 1/2 the stick is used up.
Your weld looks to be too hot, and traveling too fast. Starts out OK, but as the metal your welding heats up, you started moving faster.
With a DC machine, 6010 or 5P is what I would use. The ‘P’ in 5 P stands for pipe, and it’s a good penetrating rod, unlike 6013.
Make sure you’re running DC reverse. (electrode positive)
Numbers on welders are only an indicator, and vary from one to the other. Can’t run at 90? Try 100. The weld is what tells you whether to turn the amps up or down, not the numbers on a dial. Grab some scrap plate and play.
Today's solutions are tomorrow's problems.
- liveaboard
- Posts: 1982
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- Location: southern Portugal
- Contact:
Re: Welding crack
That's far too much current for a 2.5mm rod.
I'd use 3.2mm for 5mm plate, and about the same current.
Your base material might be the problem if it's not mild steel.
I'd use 3.2mm for 5mm plate, and about the same current.
Your base material might be the problem if it's not mild steel.
Re: Welding crack
Iron (if it's really iron, not steel) is generally not weldable. You can get away with welding wrought iron using a 60xx electrode, but it will crack without pre and post heating and a gentle cool down.
Agreed it appears to be running too hot, which will contribute to these issues. You'll have to learn to feel how hot is too hot, and how cold is too cold rather than what the machine says. 150amps is nearly double what I would run on an 1/8" 6010/6011 rod.
The problem isn't just with the heat though, when welding you want to use an electrode similar in composition to the base material. That's why they make nickel-iron electrodes for iron. Welding it with a steel electrode is a pinch-hitter method that will yield mixed results.
Agreed it appears to be running too hot, which will contribute to these issues. You'll have to learn to feel how hot is too hot, and how cold is too cold rather than what the machine says. 150amps is nearly double what I would run on an 1/8" 6010/6011 rod.
The problem isn't just with the heat though, when welding you want to use an electrode similar in composition to the base material. That's why they make nickel-iron electrodes for iron. Welding it with a steel electrode is a pinch-hitter method that will yield mixed results.
-Sam
Boilermaker, Pipefitter, former Railroader
"Preserving the Past and Ensuring Our Future"
Boilermaker, Pipefitter, former Railroader
"Preserving the Past and Ensuring Our Future"
Re: Welding crack
My comment is not intended to be controversial, but educational.
What you said is true of "cast iron" (white or gray), but it is not true of iron. Iron is available that is weldable without issue by conventional means but it is generally confused with steel. Think of the laminations in motors and transformers. They are carbon free iron.
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.