Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
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- Bill Shields
- Posts: 10582
- Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:57 am
- Location: 39.367, -75.765
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Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
very nice indeed - fiddly bits to hold
it is amazing how we (most of us anyway) -> use a BEARING MATERIAL for a brake shoe.
is a bit of an oxymoron
think about it....
it is amazing how we (most of us anyway) -> use a BEARING MATERIAL for a brake shoe.
is a bit of an oxymoron
think about it....
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
Steve:
The two radius rods for the trialing truck on my Mikado are made from 1/8" thick hot rolled steel bar.
You might find greater success using the thinner bars. They are under very small stresses in use, acting primarily as guides.
RussN
The two radius rods for the trialing truck on my Mikado are made from 1/8" thick hot rolled steel bar.
You might find greater success using the thinner bars. They are under very small stresses in use, acting primarily as guides.
RussN
Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
I have bonded 1/8" thick brake pad material to the bronze shoes on my railroad equipment. JB Weld works well for this.Bill Shields wrote: ↑Wed Jan 11, 2023 11:53 am very nice indeed - fiddly bits to hold
it is amazing how we (most of us anyway) -> use a BEARING MATERIAL for a brake shoe.
is a bit of an oxymoron
think about it....
McMaster-Carr supplied the friction material.
This works especially well on the tender truck brakes, since they are hauling my body weight around...
RussN
- Bill Shields
- Posts: 10582
- Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:57 am
- Location: 39.367, -75.765
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Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
I do similar.
Are you saying that weight of tender+butt > weight of loco?
Are you saying that weight of tender+butt > weight of loco?
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
That depends on lunch and dinner... and the locomotive.Bill Shields wrote: ↑Wed Jan 11, 2023 12:13 pm [snip]
Are you saying that weight of tender+butt > weight of loco?
RussN
Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
Thanks guys for compliments, means a lot to an amateur at this.
I offset the Trailing Truck radius arms and now have 3/8" clearance. I also put the on a slight angle to help steer the truck thru curves.
I offset the Trailing Truck radius arms and now have 3/8" clearance. I also put the on a slight angle to help steer the truck thru curves.
- Bill Shields
- Posts: 10582
- Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:57 am
- Location: 39.367, -75.765
- Contact:
Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
I call that 'beat with a hammer until it cleared'.....you are doing a very nice job, looks very nice.
same result -> your description more elegant....
Have room in there for the ashpan / dump? or are you going to oil / gas fire?
I know this next section is going to sound pedantic -> but those of us who have been through it will understand.
Imagine your loco in the upright, wheels down position.
Imagine NEXT -> what happens if (when?) a bolt falls out of the brake rigging and a piece of linkage drops down.
worst case is it drops so that the leading end is jammed into an oncoming tie (or switch frog....) and the track / switch is ripped up and / or the loco lifted and derailed (or both)...There are few things in the world more unwieldy than a hot, heavy locomotive.
Many of us who have been through that -> put pins in from the top down, with a cotter to hold them in place - often in addition to threaded nut. On one of my locos, I have 'safety straps' to keep things that may come loose from falling down below track top level. (you may have seen them on passenger cars / freight cars under the brake rigging rods).
Whenever possible, I prefer soft, non fracturing pins in place of hardened bolts that can snap off under a load.
yes, the loads are small, but then *things* happens and murphy is resident at most LS tracks..
there is a lot of motion going on down there, and things work loose (and / or break)....and don't get inspected on a regular basis since it IS the underside of a largish loco.
The aircraft industry calls their solution 'safety wires'
same result -> your description more elegant....
Have room in there for the ashpan / dump? or are you going to oil / gas fire?
I know this next section is going to sound pedantic -> but those of us who have been through it will understand.
Imagine your loco in the upright, wheels down position.
Imagine NEXT -> what happens if (when?) a bolt falls out of the brake rigging and a piece of linkage drops down.
worst case is it drops so that the leading end is jammed into an oncoming tie (or switch frog....) and the track / switch is ripped up and / or the loco lifted and derailed (or both)...There are few things in the world more unwieldy than a hot, heavy locomotive.
Many of us who have been through that -> put pins in from the top down, with a cotter to hold them in place - often in addition to threaded nut. On one of my locos, I have 'safety straps' to keep things that may come loose from falling down below track top level. (you may have seen them on passenger cars / freight cars under the brake rigging rods).
Whenever possible, I prefer soft, non fracturing pins in place of hardened bolts that can snap off under a load.
yes, the loads are small, but then *things* happens and murphy is resident at most LS tracks..
there is a lot of motion going on down there, and things work loose (and / or break)....and don't get inspected on a regular basis since it IS the underside of a largish loco.
The aircraft industry calls their solution 'safety wires'
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
Thanks much Bill. I don't find your words pedantic at all. I am always open to good dialog, good, bad or indifferent as I typically take something positive away from it. This is all great info as the last thing I want to do is have a link fall off. I planned on using Nylock nuts and Blue Locktite on all fasteners. As you say the bottom of the Loco's do not get inspected as much as one would like. I will say with my stand on the air lift I will have easy access from below to check things out. I am going with Propane for fuel
Last edited by Odyknuck on Thu Jan 12, 2023 6:40 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
BTW, I did beat those links with a hammer lol. They were however done side by side to make them the same. As the old saying goes, everything bolts on if you have a Hammer, Welder and a Machine Shop!
Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
Bill Shields stated:
"...put pins in from the top down, with a cotter to hold them in place - often in addition to threaded nut. On one of my locos, I have 'safety straps' to keep things that may come loose from falling down below track top level."
Wise words, and I follow the same methods.
RussN
"...put pins in from the top down, with a cotter to hold them in place - often in addition to threaded nut. On one of my locos, I have 'safety straps' to keep things that may come loose from falling down below track top level."
Wise words, and I follow the same methods.
RussN
Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
I finished up the brake linkages and few other parts, prepped and painted.
Last edited by Odyknuck on Sat Jan 14, 2023 4:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
Pretty much every fastener on the project was loose and/or did not meet the 1.5 Diameter engagement when I got it. So, I dissembled the frame to the point I could address the issues. A lot of the allen cap screws had to be replaced with longer ones. A lot of crud was left in blind holes so I chased the threads with a tap to clean them up and blew them out. Also discoverd another issue of holes drilled in the wrong location.
Last edited by Odyknuck on Sat Jan 14, 2023 4:17 pm, edited 2 times in total.