Getting (Galloping) Goosed

Where users can chronicle their builds. Start one thread and continue to add on to it.

Moderator: Harold_V

jeanluc83
Posts: 118
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2019 8:02 pm
Location: Connecticut

Getting (Galloping) Goosed

Post by jeanluc83 »

I’ve been working on building a Goose for the last month or so while I take a break from my Clishay.  The plan is to get it on the rails by springtime.

I’m using the Discover Live Steam plans with a bit of redesign work.  I’m mainly changing the front truck and drive train to appear closer to the prototype.  I’ll also take the opportunity to make my goose convertible between 7-1/4 and 7-1/2 gauge. 

So far I have the wheels for the front truck done. They are based on the pressed steel wheels used on Fairmont rail cars.  It looks like that was what was used on the prototype.   Each one took me about 5 hours to machine from 1144 bar stock but I think it will give it a lot of character.
Completed set of wheels
Completed set of wheels
Turning the tread
Turning the tread
Dishing out the front of the wheel
Dishing out the front of the wheel
A quick drill fixture was made to drill the 16 holes in each wheel, 8 holes for decorative lug nuts and 8 lightening holes
A quick drill fixture was made to drill the 16 holes in each wheel, 8 holes for decorative lug nuts and 8 lightening holes
Dishing out the back side of the wheels, honestly this was the longest part of making the wheels
Dishing out the back side of the wheels, honestly this was the longest part of making the wheels
jeanluc83
Posts: 118
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2019 8:02 pm
Location: Connecticut

Re: Getting (Galloping) Goosed

Post by jeanluc83 »

Over the last couple of weeks I was able to get the front truck just about compete. 

I’ll admit that it is a bit more elaborate than it really needs to be.  It would have been the easiest to make the side frames from a single piece of flat bar.  Unfortunately I don’t have a good way of boring a single flat bar for the bearings.  The blocks were small enough to be held in my lathe.

The design includes 1/8" spacers that can be moved from outside the wheels to the inside for conversion between 7-1/4 and 7-1/2 gauge. I’m solidly in 7-1/4 gauge territory but there may be travel in my future and it will make it easier to sell if I ever decide to.

Front truck almost finished
Front truck almost finished
I have enough play to raise one wheel about 1/2" with all the others still on the track.
I have enough play to raise one wheel about 1/2" with all the others still on the track.
Truck frame
Truck frame
Truck frame parts
Truck frame parts
Close-up of the threaded axle
Close-up of the threaded axle
Andrew Pugh
Posts: 204
Joined: Wed Jul 12, 2006 9:22 pm
Location: British Columbia, Canada

Re: Getting (Galloping) Goosed

Post by Andrew Pugh »

Are those shoulder bolts connecting the side frames to the bolster? Also curious what type of bearings you are using…

Looks great!

-AP
jeanluc83
Posts: 118
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2019 8:02 pm
Location: Connecticut

Re: Getting (Galloping) Goosed

Post by jeanluc83 »

Yes the frames are attached to the bolster with sholder bolts. I machined my own 3/8" cap screws. I got the idea from a design for economical trucks that was run in Live Steam.

The bearings were picked up from ebay. It was $13 for a set of 10. The ID is 7/16" and the OD 29/32". I'm not sure how long they will last but they are easy to replace.

The bearings are a sliding fit on the axle and are secured along with the spacers and the wheels by the axle nuts. The frames are about .015 clearance to the bearing OD to allow flexability.

Sholder bolts machined from 3/8" cap screws
Sholder bolts machined from 3/8" cap screws
User avatar
Adirondack
Posts: 410
Joined: Tue Aug 23, 2011 6:59 pm
Location: southern CT

Re: Getting (Galloping) Goosed

Post by Adirondack »

I'm intrigued by your wheel design. How much did you machine off from the rear to give them an "open" look like a stamping? Right now, they look strong enough to hold up the real goose!

Chris
Adirondack Car & Foundry
Check out our projects: https://www.facebook.com/ADKrail/
Visit our ALL-NEW online store: https://adirondackcarfoundry.square.site/

A little locomotive with 4 wheels on the track is a lot more fun
than a 1/2 finished one with 16 wheels on the bench!
jeanluc83
Posts: 118
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2019 8:02 pm
Location: Connecticut

Re: Getting (Galloping) Goosed

Post by jeanluc83 »

The relief is 1/4" deep. It was one of the more time consuming operations. It accounted for about an hour for each wheel.

I seem to remember a UK company offering pressed wheels for 7-1/4" gauge.
Attachments
wheel_01.pdf
(206.6 KiB) Downloaded 327 times
DRS_RR
Posts: 46
Joined: Sat Mar 21, 2009 10:21 pm
Location: Owasso, OK

Re: Getting (Galloping) Goosed

Post by DRS_RR »

looking great, I like the design to it. I'm building a pseudo goose and was thinking something similar for the front truck with just a pair of wheels and axles I have, so thanks for posting that, gives me some good ideas.

Dave
jeanluc83
Posts: 118
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2019 8:02 pm
Location: Connecticut

Re: Getting (Galloping) Goosed

Post by jeanluc83 »

I got some work done on the rear wheels. I still need to dish out the outside faces of the wheels and machine the treads. These ones will also be getting keyways.

I decided to drill the spoke holes before I dished out the front while I had a flat surface to work from. It made layout and drilling a bit easier.

Back side of the wheels done.  There are some scratches from clamping that will need to be worked out.
Back side of the wheels done. There are some scratches from clamping that will need to be worked out.
Drilling the spoke holes with a 3/4" drill.  I ran out of height so I couldn't clamp the wheels to the table.  I had to get creative.
Drilling the spoke holes with a 3/4" drill. I ran out of height so I couldn't clamp the wheels to the table. I had to get creative.
Splitting the stock into wheel blanks put my bandsaw to its limit.  It took about 30 minutes to get all the way through.
Splitting the stock into wheel blanks put my bandsaw to its limit. It took about 30 minutes to get all the way through.
Andrew Pugh
Posts: 204
Joined: Wed Jul 12, 2006 9:22 pm
Location: British Columbia, Canada

Re: Getting (Galloping) Goosed

Post by Andrew Pugh »

jeanluc83 wrote: Wed Dec 29, 2021 8:31 am Yes the frames are attached to the bolster with sholder bolts. I machined my own 3/8" cap screws. I got the idea from a design for economical trucks that was run in Live Steam.

The bearings were picked up from ebay. It was $13 for a set of 10. The ID is 7/16" and the OD 29/32". I'm not sure how long they will last but they are easy to replace.

The bearings are a sliding fit on the axle and are secured along with the spacers and the wheels by the axle nuts. The frames are about .015 clearance to the bearing OD to allow flexability.

<snip>
That explains the flexibility! At $13 for 10 it’s certainly affordable to replace the bearings every so often, but hopefully you get good life out of them!

-Andrew
jeanluc83
Posts: 118
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2019 8:02 pm
Location: Connecticut

Re: Getting (Galloping) Goosed

Post by jeanluc83 »

I was able to get one of the rear wheels about 90% done. I need to dish out the front side of the other one then they will be ready for keyways. After that I'll turn the treads.

Rear wheel closer to done
Rear wheel closer to done
User avatar
Harold_V
Posts: 20231
Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2002 11:02 pm
Location: Onalaska, WA USA

Re: Getting (Galloping) Goosed

Post by Harold_V »

Now that you've turned a wheel, did you conclude it was better to tolerate the interrupted cut by drilling the holes first, or would you suggest they be drilled afterwards? I can see how either choice leaves a little to be desired.

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
jeanluc83
Posts: 118
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2019 8:02 pm
Location: Connecticut

Re: Getting (Galloping) Goosed

Post by jeanluc83 »

The interrupted cut wasn't too bad. It did dull my high speed steel cutter fairly quickly. I'm not sure that a carbide cutter or insert would have been any better.

The biggest advantage was for the hole layout. It was nice to have the flat face to work on.

If I had the option a rotary table in the mill would have been the best. It would have also been nice to clean up the holes using a boring head. I'm not sure that either option would be any faster.
Post Reply