Will Mig / Flux Cored work for my needs?

[hammermill]

consider talking to your local vender. it may have demo machines available, axcess to good wire grades and gas if needed. be aware of model nombers, often time units are down graded, say plastic over metal parts to to meet price points for places like home depot.

also realize steel and stainless can be tig welded with a simple dc machine al and a few other require a high freq to get the job done.

[redneckalbertan]

I have a few hours experience using a friends tig welder. Thinking maybe I should buy a used Lincoln tombstone buzz box and give stick a try, and like you said, get a tig torch for it

I wouldn't. Get an ac/dc machine.

[redneckalbertan]

Ok, the lunch buzzer isn't ringing so I can be a little more detailed.

With TIG welding AC is generally used only with aluminum and its alloys. And at that you overlay a high frequency singnal voltage over it to help with arc reigniting when your main current passes through 0 volts in its AC cycle. It is possible to weld aluminum with reverse polarity DC although high freq. AC is DEFINATELY superior. Steel and stainless are both generally welded with DC straight polarity.

With purpose built TIG machines along with AC high freq. they have high frequency start for DC polarities. It is a nice feature but not necessary. Some machines either purpose built or a stick machine have a feature called lift start where the welding voltage is off but a signal voltage is always on. When contact is made with the work then the torch is lifted and the contact is broken the machine turns on the welding current and an arc is established. Scratch start is how you would start if you don't have any fancy features. It would be very similar to starting your arc with a stick rod.

If you want new, as opposed to the Lincoln AC225 consider the Lincoln AC/DC225. It has DC capabilities which puts it a step up from the good old AC225, but as far as I know it has selectable amperages not infinitely variable. As well it is has a limited DC amperage of 125 amps, which is just enough to burn a 1/8 7018 rod. I would recomend the Lincoln AC/DC250. Slightly larger, which can be bennificial but is variable amperage not selectable! That can alleviate a lot of frustration when learning to weld... As well as ad to it! But it is a good thing. I would not recomend a welder with selectable amperages. (A selectable range with infinite fine control within the range is fine because you still have the fine control. Miller Big 40 come to mind as an example of this.) Lincoln does make good machine but I am partial to Miller... I have a few beefs with them which are personal, but at the end of the day it boils down to: do you like the color red or blue better!

[WJH]

My friend convinced me to get a tig, so I think i'll get this one.
I know its DC only, so no Aluminum, can't afford a TIG that will do everything. My locomotive project will be mostly steel anyhow.

[redneckalbertan]

You don't mention in your post what machine you are getting... But it sounded like you were going to in your post, I was all excited for a minute!

[WJH]

You don't mention in your post what machine you are getting... But it sounded like you were going to in your post, I was all excited for a minute!

Doh!!!
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/produ ... arc-160sth

The guy on youtube, weldingtipandtricks has it, and loves it, nothing but great comments.
Yes, I would love a 200+ amp AC/DC unit, with pulse, and all that, but this guy will do 95% of what I need, and is even pushing my budget. Not to mention, need to buy a bottle, welding mask, appropriate clothes, foot pedal, etc.

[redneckalbertan]

That is an impressive little machine, according to their literature. I would love to try one to see how she works. I think you should be happy with it.

Appropiate clothing is simple and easy! Natural materials only, no synthetics! Burning is better than melting! I wear Jeans, cotton t-shirt, a denim or tight weave cotton button down shirt, and leather boots. At work, steel toe red wings and at home either an old pair of steel toe boots or cowboy boots. Avoid sneakers or hiking boots with cloth or synthetic fabrics. Even some steel toe boots have a fabric tounge, so be careful and think through where a spark can land and be caught, being left to burn through what it is sitting on. Speaking from experience, you can take a fully laced 8" boot off in under two seconds when properly motivated! I have, when I didn't have anything better to wear, used an old glove, placed it accross the top of my boot than secure it in place with duct tapering to cover up said hole. Unless I am working over in an overhead position I leave the leathers off. They are hot, heavy, and uncomfortable.

You have a wide selection. Avoid the cheep autodarkening helmets. The ones that I have looked at do not change as quickly as a name brand more expensive model. I know a few people who have had eye pain from cheep helmets after a day's worth of work.

[WJH]

Good to know, thanks!

[WJH]

Tig welder has been ordered!

[Rex]

I use a Firepower FP120 with flux core wire. My welds look as good as they did with gas. The 120 does everything I need it to

[WJH]

Today I went to Ace Welding Supply and bought a 125 CF tank of Argon for 180$. Costs about 45$ to refill. I own the tank. Also got a tungsten electrode and some filler rod. I then went to Horror Fright and bought their cheapy welding cart on sale.
Also stopped at a local machine shop and he gave me a box of 303ss, 2024, T6, 4130, 1018, and other cutoffs for free!