Help identify this locomotive chassis plz…

[Dick_Morris]

Neat model. From the photos, it looks to me like it's quite an old build. It also looks like the builder was fairly skilled.

The only locomotive using this drive system that I found in some searching the web was this one from http://www.gearedsteam.com/other/other_new.htm. Maybe the patent holder and date will help finding more.

"Builder: Adams and Price - No. 6 Vauxhall Street, Nashville, Tennessee (design from patent of W. E. Cole) - total quantity built is unknown
Owner : Unknown
This image appeared on page 377 of the August, 1899 issue of Railway and Locomotive Engineering."

If the rods would and cylinder drains would clear is looks like it would be fairly simple to convert it to 3-1/2" gauge. The cylinders and the valve linkage except for the eccentrics wouldn't need to be modified. The work would mostly be new axles and some spacers. A lot easier than "Alaska Railroad #1" which started as a 3" gauge Davenport 0-4-0 and was converted by the ARR shops into a standard gauge shop switcher by adding a spacer between the cylinders, modifying the footplate, and new axles.

Of course, if the nearest 3-1/2" gauge track is several hundred miles away Keith's suggestion of a few hundred feet of track in the yard would work.

[LVRR2095]

Hi all.
Distance between flanges is exactly 3”…

I don’t mean to belabor the point, but when you say “between the flanges” just which surfaces are you using to measure?
You don’t measure “between” the inner edges of the flanges. You measure from the outer edges of the flanges.
Three and a half inch gauge is the measurement between the rails. Most clubs actually set the track gauge at 3 - 17/32”.

Keith

[steamblower]

Let’s make this simple…,if one were to lay two parallel tracks 3” apart measured from the inside of each rail THIS beast would fit perfectly on that set of tracks. The actual distance measured between the flanges of each wheel is approximately 2.92375”. Hope that clarifies.

[Bill Shields]

So it's an oddball when compared to current scale/gauge.

We're it me, I would put it on a short length of track, cover it with a plexiglass cube and use it as a "look-see"

[steamblower]

I’m planning on doing something like that. Just to see it move with all the parts moving in synch would be quite a conversation piece. BTW it does run on air in both directions very smoothly.
Regarding scale/gauge…,
I have a LE 3/4 scale Hudson and a 1” scale Atlantic. So I am familiar with the nomenclature. But… I may be skewered for this … 1” scale locos run on track that is 4.75” apart…, accordingly since 1”=1 foot, would that not mean that a narrow gauge of 3 ft calculate to 3” track in this scale? Somewhere in the world (sugar plantations?) has to have 3ft track…..? Just sayin! Thanks all!

[Bill Shields]

Yes ..that gauge did exist here and there, but has not been adopted by the hobby

In Europe the 1" locos are 5" gauge -> and I own and operate a 2.5" gauge steamer -> for which club tracks are very difficult to find.

Where there is a will there is a way.

A running in air display model can be a very attractive centerpiece. Just do not forget to feed it oil

[steamblower]

What puzzles me is the design/concept of this thing. Obviously the builder had some incredible skills if this was a freelance build. I’d just like to know the origins of this design…! Will keep diggin…!
I am aware of the Cole’s patent and have found on utube an Indonesian sugar plantation loco but it was an 0-4-4-0 design with the jackshaft in the middle…

[Mike Walsh]

I have a LE 3/4 scale Hudson and a 1” scale Atlantic. So I am familiar with the nomenclature. But… I may be skewered for this … 1” scale locos run on track that is 4.75” apart…, accordingly since 1”=1 foot, would that not mean that a narrow gauge of 3 ft calculate to 3” track in this scale? Somewhere in the world (sugar plantations?) has to have 3ft track…..? Just sayin! Thanks all!

Consider that Kozo Hiraoka is building a 3-1/2" gauge K-27 right now. I do believe that it scales out to 1-1/6" scale.

So if you are working in true 1" scale, then yes, the gauge is 3". Crazy how a sixth of an inch of scale can throw off your gauge that much - but math does not lie.

Unfortunate you have a very unique gauge to work with. You do have the option of regauging it if you can make it happen. But you may be better off cloning the numbers. Either way, a very unique model and nicely made.

[Benjamin Maggi]

Maybe a stretched, modified Falk engine?