3 1/2" Gauge Switches

[H&NERY]

I am Looking for information on building some 3 1/2" switches for my railway. Mostly looking for dimensional information. I am finding a lot on 7 1/2" gauge switches but not so much on 3 1/2" gauge. I am currently using switches from Lawn Tracks. They are OK but do not look very realistic, my locomotives have the tendency to pick a switch from time to time when I am "Hauling the Mail". My track panels also came from Lawn Tracks, they are made of flat bar, 1/4" x 3/4" so that is what my new switches will be made of as far as the rails. I have the book " Build A 7 1/2" Gauge Railroad in Your Back Yard" by Laurence Johnson, and in it he goes into depth on how he constructs his switches, but they are in 7 1/2" gauge. His process will work just fine for me. My main line runs 25' radius curves, I do have some 20' radius curves also. The Lawn Track switches are 20' radius curves. My current locomotives do not have any problems with those, and I do not think the Pacific that I am currently constructing will have any problems as I have pulled it through those before. Any help or guidance would be much appreciated, Thanks, Zach

[Gra2472]

Maybe this will help. You need to know the frog number/ratio to layout the switch properly, but you should be able use these drawings as a guide.

https://www.wmata.com/business/procurem ... awings.pdf

[Bill Shields]

While not prototypical to class 1 track, the stub switches you have should serve you well.
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[LVRR2095]

While not prototypical to class 1 track, the stub switches you have should serve you well.
.

Actually stub switches are prototypical. The East Broad Top and the Wiscasset, Waterville and Farmington in Maine, still use them in certain applications.

But no….not on Class 1 roads. Just as information…”Class 1 Track” is only good for ten miles per hour. Class 6 is good for 110 miles per hour.

Keith