Tips on getting started with 3-in-1 machine

This forum is dedicated to those hobbyists with the 3-in-1 metalworking machines. Mill-Drill-Lathes. Tips, techniques, modification and use of these machines is topical.

Moderator: Harold_V

Post Reply
timsch
Posts: 25
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2022 8:31 pm
Location: Brookside Village, Texas

Tips on getting started with 3-in-1 machine

Post by timsch »

Hello all,

I have some, but not much machining experience. I've just picked up a Grizzly G4015Z and am cleaning it up and making minor repairs now. Any tips on how to get my best start with it will be appreciated. I have the user manual and will be studying it. Some have said that it's not the best manual, and that those from other equivalent machines are better. If so, which ones? Any other useful webpages?

How about tweaks to make it better than stock? I've searched for modifications, but didn't come up with much.
Grizzly G4015Z 3-1
Torch
Posts: 1684
Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2010 7:58 am
Location: Muskoka

Re: Tips on getting started with 3-in-1 machine

Post by Torch »

In general, the Grizzly manuals tend to be better than most alternatives for Chinese made machines. Grizzly seems to have native English speakers as tech writers. Most others have some Chinglish gobbldygook or machine-generated translations.

As for mods, the OEM style milling vise/tool post combo is next to useless as a vise and, while usable, less than optimum tool holder. Best to get a real milling vise (something in a 3" or 4" Kurt clone perhaps) and replace the tool holder turret with a Quick Change Tool Post (QCTP). Grizzly models generally suffer from residual casting sand less often, but a good cleaning of all moving parts never hurt anything and depending on the age of your used machine, the grease may be getting pretty thick anyway.

Common with all these machines, the cross feed lead screw may double as a feed screw (not sure if this is true of the G4015Z) and if so, features a milled slot lengthwise to be driven by a gear. The edge of the slot where it meets the threads tends to be fairly sharp, leading to excessive and rapid wear of the brass nut. Remove the table and gently stone or file each intersection of groove and thread to blunt it. You may find the cross-feed nut and/or the half nut is already worn, leading to excessive back-lash. If so, now is a good time to replace it.

Take the time to ensure the gibs are properly adjusted. It is incredibly frustrating to achieve any sort of precision with loose gibs and wears away the machined ways prematurely if they are too tight. Make sure you get some way oil (a special sticky oil) and use it regularly for the same reason. Consider fabricating some felt wipers to help keep out the dirt and lubricate the ways in use.

Make sure the machine is mounted to a firm base and properly levelled in all directions. It is surprising how much twist can occur in supposedly rigid cast iron, which will lead to a whole new world of confusion as you attempt to cut precisely and consistently.

A popular mod on these machines is to replace the drive motor with a 1hp variable speed DC treadmill motor and controller. Of course, you have to make your own mounting and power modifications to suit.

If you are really ambitious, you could add a 3 axis DRO (Digital Read Out). Some will call that a crutch -- and I won't say they are wrong -- but it is a crutch that makes life so much easier for the part-time home hobbyist who will only be using the one machine.

Get a good white wheel for your bench grinder and study Harold's words of wisdom on grinding lathe tool bits. Better to use a good quality HSS (M2, M35 or M42) than carbide for many applications on these small, low power machines. Carbide is better suited to bigger, heavier machines that are more rigid and powerful, at least in steels. Similarly, good quality HSS endmills are a worthwhile investment compared to sets of cheap Chinese endmills that only cost less initially.

Finally, practice practice practice. And have fun!
timsch
Posts: 25
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2022 8:31 pm
Location: Brookside Village, Texas

Re: Tips on getting started with 3-in-1 machine

Post by timsch »

Thanks for all of the tips and info, Torch. I'm green enough I'll have to look up a handful of the terms you used.

A quick change tool post will definitely be in order. If I get one now and upgrade the machine later, hopefully I'd be able to use it then also.

There's definitely more backlash with most of the controls than should be there. I'll be taking it apart to check this out. It's fairly old, so any sand from casting should be long gone, but old grease and grime won't.

I don't recall seeing any mounting points on it. I'll check for level, but as of now it's just sitting on a pretty stout steel workshop table, although not super heavy duty.

Is this the Harold you're referring to? http://www.homews.co.uk/page568.html
What grit on the white wheel?
Grizzly G4015Z 3-1
Torch
Posts: 1684
Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2010 7:58 am
Location: Muskoka

Re: Tips on getting started with 3-in-1 machine

Post by Torch »

I was referring to Harold the moderator extraordinaire on this forum. Two of his posts on the subject worth checking out are:

http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/vie ... 44&t=75985
and
http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/vie ... 44&t=76065
Post Reply