By "results" here, I guess you're talking about the effect of the balancing exercise?
Moriya Stirling Engine Build
Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build
To secure the 1/16" wrist pin (mild steel) I lightly peened both ends against a solid surface to slightly upset the end diameter.
The pin stays in place. Removal is a destructive process. Not a problem.
Nice looking rods!
RussN
The pin stays in place. Removal is a destructive process. Not a problem.
Nice looking rods!
RussN
Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build
I'm not quite following. Did you make the pins extra long so that you could smoosh the ends after assembly? Or did you make them to match the fork width, distort them prior to assembly, and then just force one end of the pin through rod and into the far side of the fork?
-- Russell Mac
Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build
I made the wrist pin so it is longer than the fork width by at least 1/16" out each side.rmac wrote: ↑Sun Apr 18, 2021 1:32 amI'm not quite following. Did you make the pins extra long so that you could smoosh the ends after assembly? Or did you make them to match the fork width, distort them prior to assembly, and then just force one end of the pin through rod and into the far side of the fork?
-- Russell Mac
With both ends slightly upset they stay in position without binding.
And when you need to remove them (many years later...), one enlarged end can easily be snipped off so the deburred pin can then be pushed out the other side.
Of course, you can always turn a miniature wrist pin with a tiny nut on one end. Just for the fun of it.
Elegant for sure.
RussN
Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build
Perfect! Thanks for the clarification.
A tiny pin held in place by a tiny nut does sound interesting. Maybe after the engines are actually running.
I don't think I've mentioned it here before, but the first thing I want to do if I can get a working engine is see if it will run with sunlight concentrated by a parabolic reflector instead of fire. (We have more sunlight than wood stoves here in Phoenix. ) I could have saved myself a lot of trouble by buying this one: https://www.pmmodelengines.com/shop/sol ... -engine-4/, but of course there's no fun in that. Anyway, that's why I was wondering if the Moriya engine has to be vertical to run. Obviously it will need to be oriented at some goofy angle to work with the reflector.
-- Russell Mac
Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build
I suspect Moriya would run at a non-vertical angle, but expect to see increased wear in friction-seal parts.
I have not tried doing that. My wood-burning stove is bolted to the floor...
RussN
I have not tried doing that. My wood-burning stove is bolted to the floor...
RussN
Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build
If You want to be the envy of Your machinist friends, You could machine grooves in the pistons and use circlips to hold the wrist pins in. Not "c" clips, the round wire ones.
Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build
Progress Report #14:
Power conn rods and crankpins done. I deviated from the drawings again a little bit with the crankpins by threading on a little plastic bushing to avoid another aluminum-on-steel bearing. Actually the article that accompanies the plans hint at this idea, so maybe it's not completely nuts.
I think there are now only three or more more parts to make. Getting close.
-- Russell Mac
Power conn rods and crankpins done. I deviated from the drawings again a little bit with the crankpins by threading on a little plastic bushing to avoid another aluminum-on-steel bearing. Actually the article that accompanies the plans hint at this idea, so maybe it's not completely nuts.
I think there are now only three or more more parts to make. Getting close.
-- Russell Mac
Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build
It looks good, the work is neat. Do you have a complete drawing of the device in order to understand how many more spare parts you need and what shape they should be?rmac wrote: ↑Mon Apr 19, 2021 8:04 pm Progress Report #14:
Power conn rods and crankpins done. I deviated from the drawings again a little bit with the crankpins by threading on a little plastic bushing to avoid another aluminum-on-steel bearing. Actually the article that accompanies the plans hint at this idea, so maybe it's not completely nuts.
I think there are now only three or more more parts to make. Getting close.
-- Russell Mac
power_conn_rods_and_crank_pins.jpg
Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build
Thank you, Kay_B. Yes, I'm working from a complete set of plans. There's a link to them in one of the earlier posts in this thread.
-- Russell Mac
Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build
I like your use of the plastic bushing for the power conn rod.
That will likely be an improvement I will make to my well-used Moriya fan.
A simple job to do.
RussN
That will likely be an improvement I will make to my well-used Moriya fan.
A simple job to do.
RussN
Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build
I guess depending on the plastic you use, I think you'll need a jam nut or else some thread locker (Yay! More Loctite!) to keep the crankpin from coming unscrewed. I wasn't able to crank down against my HDPE bushing without crushing it.
-- Russell Mac
-- Russell Mac