Working with small wood pieces/patternmaking

Home enthusiasts discuss their Foundry & Casting work.

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jlakes85
Posts: 228
Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2012 6:07 am

Working with small wood pieces/patternmaking

Post by jlakes85 »

Hi all,

Are there any clamps/tools that make this easier when trying to get these small pieces to close dimensions? Think small like valve port core prints, individual gating pieces e.t.c.

-jlakes85
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Harold_V
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Location: Onalaska, WA USA

Re: Working with small wood pieces/patternmaking

Post by Harold_V »

I'm far from a pattern maker, but one of the things I do when working with wood when it must be right is to use my metal cutting machines. I don't like working with wood, so that makes the task a little easier, at least for me. Probably not the answer you seek, though.

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
mihit
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Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2018 1:04 pm
Location: Tai Tokerau, NZ

Re: Working with small wood pieces/patternmaking

Post by mihit »

I have banned wood on all my metal machines :D Filthy 'orrible dusty stuff.
Valve core print? So you need a negative (mould) to make a core?
If you mean valve as in automotive cylinder type, I'd make a reamer, probably out of an old valve. Hog out the block with drills, then ream to size and shape.
Are you moulding in sand? I generally just free-hand gating once the imprint and sprues are in...
jlakes85
Posts: 228
Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2012 6:07 am

Re: Working with small wood pieces/patternmaking

Post by jlakes85 »

Hi Mihit,

This would be for a slide valve steam cylinder. It's just a small rectangular strip of wood, but I want it to be accurate and I'm scratching my head as to how to hold/secure these small pieces for the final finishing/sizing operations
jscarmozza
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Joined: Mon Mar 03, 2014 5:09 pm

Re: Working with small wood pieces/patternmaking

Post by jscarmozza »

Like Harold, I use my metal working machines for some operations, but mostly I sneak up on the dimensions by sanding on a disk or spindle sander...glue on pop sickle sticks, tooth picks, any pre-made thing to get the shape that I want, then smooth it all out with some wood filler, hand sand it smooth. Whatever works is the right way to go, don't forget, you're just looking for an impression in the sand.
jlakes85
Posts: 228
Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2012 6:07 am

Re: Working with small wood pieces/patternmaking

Post by jlakes85 »

Hi John,

Absolutely. I think what you mentioned about temporary glue-on handles is what I was after. I was just looking through a Micro-Mark catalog for ideas as well. They have some pretty small hand held texturing devices. Not sure if anyone can recommend one over the other.
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Harold_V
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Location: Onalaska, WA USA

Re: Working with small wood pieces/patternmaking

Post by Harold_V »

mihit wrote: Tue Jul 30, 2019 1:38 am Filthy 'orrible dusty stuff.
True, but with no real consequences in regards to the machine. When I've finished, the machine is wiped down and re-oiled. No harm done, and the task to be accomplished has been, with a level of precision often impossible by other means. I see that as a win/win situation. After all, I purchased my machines to accomplish just that. There's no difference between machining wood and other substances. I certainly wouldn't avoid phenolic board just because it makes dust, which is harmless to the machine.

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
K. Browers
Posts: 94
Joined: Wed Mar 21, 2007 11:57 am
Location: Philippines

Re: Working with small wood pieces/patternmaking

Post by K. Browers »

Hello, a trick I use is to glue the back side of a pattern to a piece of plywood with a piece of paper between them the paper will split with a chisel or knife inserted between releasing your pattern.
If you can hold it you can cut it. :D
reubenT
Posts: 107
Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2008 11:04 pm
Location: Spencer TN USA

Re: Working with small wood pieces/patternmaking

Post by reubenT »

Jigs and rigs, clamps and braces, just have to invent something. I have found that the harder the wood the better it cuts on the metal lathe for pattern making. Soft wood turns up the grain in places with a metal bit. The last piece I used was just a random piece of firewood, decided it was sweet gum, and it was a little on the soft side. Hard maple or hickory works better. Or black locust. Only thing wood dust does is soak up the oil off the lathe surfaces, so clean up and re oil it. Both my lathes are 70-100 years old and don't get a large amount of use, so I figure they good for anything I can use them for. Metal/wood/plastic, whatever I need to change the form of.
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