Tack Broken Bolt in Aluminum

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steamin10
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Re: Tack Broken Bolt in Aluminum

Post by steamin10 »

It is my experience that smaller MM bolts break rather easy compared to SAE. But it is what it is.

Dead right on aluminum temps, thats why I mentioned a 500 degree ceiling, as only 600 degrees is in the range that begins to work on AL properties for heat treatment. Mush at 1100 and melting at 1300. Thats not alot.

I would not want broken bolts in my structure, but thats me.
Big Dave, former Millwright, Electrician, Environmental conditioning, and back yard Fixxit guy. Now retired, persuing boats, trains, and broken relics.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
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GlennW
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Re: Tack Broken Bolt in Aluminum

Post by GlennW »

The key to loosening fasteners in aluminum is to use an aluminum punch about the same diameter as the fastener head and smack the tar out of it with a hammer, before you ruin the head. 99% of the time it will then come right out. Most of the stuff I worked on was held together with #3 Phillips size screws. You got one good chance to get them out.

I worked in a shop repairing motocross bikes back when Bultaco, Ossa, CZ, Puch, KTM, etc. where what you rode. Then Yamaha came out with the YZ's, and Honda with the Elsinores...
Glenn

Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
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warmstrong1955
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Re: Tack Broken Bolt in Aluminum

Post by warmstrong1955 »

Glenn Wegman wrote:The key to loosening fasteners in aluminum is to use an aluminum punch about the same diameter as the fastener head and smack the tar out of it with a hammer, before you ruin the head. 99% of the time it will then come right out. Most of the stuff I worked on was held together with #3 Phillips size screws. You got one good chance to get them out.

I worked in a shop repairing motocross bikes back when Bultaco, Ossa, CZ, Puch, KTM, etc. where what you rode. Then Yamaha came out with the YZ's, and Honda with the Elsinores...
That's why those hand impact drivers work so well. I still have a couple of 'em from Motocross days.....

No Maicos or Husqvarnas Glenn????

:D
Bill
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GlennW
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Re: Tack Broken Bolt in Aluminum

Post by GlennW »

They came through as well!

Had a friend with a Husky 400 single.

There was a vanant lot next to the shop with a small track on it. Had to test ride them you know! Had a lot of fun back then!

Still have my impact driver too, but still usually started out with a good smack with a punch.

Did you do the rear shock mod to your Bultaco where you moved them foreword, reinforced the frame and swing arm, and angled them?
Glenn

Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
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GlennW
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Re: Tack Broken Bolt in Aluminum

Post by GlennW »

But if there is any doubt, there is always the all time best method.
Driver.JPG
Glenn

Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
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warmstrong1955
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Re: Tack Broken Bolt in Aluminum

Post by warmstrong1955 »

Glenn Wegman wrote: Did you do the rear shock mod to your Bultaco where you moved them foreword, reinforced the frame and swing arm, and angled them?
I sold my Bultacos in 1972, after the Yamaha MX250's came out.
In 1974 I was riding YZ's....250A & 360A....they came with standard suspension. I modified all of 'em to the forwarded mounted shocks, which I got instructions & drawings for, from Dirt Bike Magazine if I remember right. Short lived modification for me....the first monoshock YZ's came out in '75, and I got two as soon as they showed up.

Trivia: The monoshock was designed & patented by a West German, and the prototype was built on a Maico.
Maico tested it, and said.....cute.....but naaaaawwwwww. We're fine with the cantilever rear shock design we have.
Oops.
Yamaha bought the patent, and refined it.

:)
Bill
Today's solutions are tomorrow's problems.
dly31
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Re: Tack Broken Bolt in Aluminum

Post by dly31 »

I agree with Glenn on the hammer and punch. If you can jar the bolt lengthwise hard enough it nearly always loosens without damage. For Allen type fasteners I prefer a steel punch down in the socket. I like to hit it really hard with a heavy hammer like I am trying to drive it out. The air hammer often works well also.

I have found that some of the hand held impact drivers work a lot better than others. My favorite is a Blue Point (by SnapOn) that is about 60 years old. It removed a lot of motorcycle case screws back in the day and still gets used quite a bit.
Don Young
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