The Ridge Live Steamers is now Triple Gauge.

[FLtenwheeler]

Well kind of. We installed the new grade crossing for Phase 3 and I was able to get the group to allow me to install 3-1/2” and 4-3/4” along with the 7-1/2” gauge in the inboard loop track.

Tim

[FredR]

hmmm... Looks like your going to have a short run How soon do you think they wil add to it?
Fred

[Al_Messer]

I think that this is a very sensible move and I wish that MSLS had done it years ago. 7-1/2" ga. is a good gauge, but some of the equiptment that runs on it is just too big for me to afford or pick up and carry.

[Ben_Smith]

Hey Tim... do you think the 4 3/4" will be done when I move to Florida in 10 years??

[FLtenwheeler]

Hey Tim... do you think the 4 3/4" will be done when I move to Florida in 10 years??

Hi Ben

I was hoping to see you and your Shay down here before then.

We will be putting the 2700 feet of 7-1/2" mainline in first and then the inner track after that.

Tim

[Marty_Knox]

Hey Tim, don't you mean you now have 4 gauges? It seems to me there was a Gauge 1 track when I was at your meet in February.

[FLtenwheeler]

Hey Tim, don't you mean you now have 4 gauges? It seems to me there was a Gauge 1 track when I was at your meet in February.

Right you are Marty. My bad.

I hope you had a good time when you were here?

Tim

[Waumbek]

Just a note to say thanks to you and anyone who keeps thinking of us 3.5 inch folks. I think it's coming back. Years ago I used to be a member of the LALS and was there for the IBLS meet in the 70s. Everyone had a bunch of fun, but there was this one guy who had a tiny 3.5 inch gauge "Invicta" 0-4-0 that he ran lying down on a long flatcar. It looked kind of funny, but he didn't seem to care, he was having too much fun! I've never forgotten that. Maybe I'll get there in five years or so. Back to the shop!

[Marty_Knox]

Yes Tim, we had a good time at Ridge. For me the high point was finding that Korting 00 Injector! It's going to look great in the cab of my 2 1/2" scale RGS 20.

[SanDogDewey]

I know this post is 13 years old, but do you have any pictures of how the rails were supported in the concrete? I need to construct 2 crossing and trying to gather ideas.

Patrick
Seaside Shortline RR

[makinsmoke]

Patrick,
When I put the crossing across my driveway 17 (geez, has it been that long?) years ago this is how I did it. I built three curved panels with 2x4 split ties, and bolted them together. I laid out the opening needed with a tie width (2” nominal) between the end of the ties and the concrete and marked it.

The concrete guys showed up and cut the concrete, broke it and cleaned the cut to dirt level. They laid rebar and supported it on plastic spacers, tied everything together and set the panels on top. The spacers allowed the rail height to match the existing concrete.

The truck showed up and they poured and moved concrete around, filling all the spaces. As they continued to finish the pour, I took a screwdriver and cleaned concrete from the inside of the rails, maybe 1/2-3/4 inch. Had to do that a couple of times as it set.

An old guy took a soft push broom head out of a plastic bag and broomed the finish. When he was done, he brushed the concrete bits out of the broom and put it back in the bag.

He told me,”Son, I’ve been in this business fifty years and this is the first job I’ve done like this.”

Got in his truck and drove away.

[ccvstmr]

This one of the benefits of traveling around and visiting other RR's...to see how they did things. So it is, with how people handled grade crossings. And of course, take a camera to get some pix.

From what I've seen, there are several ways to approach (no pun intended) the problem. Here's what I consider "better" solutions:

1) if you're building a gravel grade crossing, build the track on 4x4's approx. 1.5" apart and in the general area of the road traffic wheel width. Cut the 4x4's so they extend 2 feet on either side of the track. After the rails are installed, plank the ends of the 4x4's and between the rails leaving sufficient space for rail screws and wheel flanges. Make sure the 4x4's are well ballasted and supported on the ends.

2) if you building a concrete grade crossing, determine where the track is located and leave a trough in the concrete 4.5" deep by 16" wide. Cut 4x4's to sit down in the trough. Leave 1.5" between 4x4's. Maybe cut cross slots to allow for drainage. Install the rails on the 4x4's...can even have a curved track thru the grade crossing. Come back after the rails are installed with 1-by or 5/4 planks to deck the crossing. If you use 5/4 planks...make sure no locomotive has gear box underneath that extends below the rail head height.

With either method, the track can still be serviced and the rails don't become a permanent part of the grade crossing. But that's my preference.
Carl B.