I highly recommend this method especially if you plan on installing automatic signals, crossing gate, etc. Much easier to have insulated track for train detection because many people use steel bar/angle in concrete with welded cross-ties to hold gauge while concrete sets - a nightmare to fix later (concrete saw down center and fill with caulk to keep rust from creating a short).ccvstmr wrote: ↑Sat Jul 10, 2021 8:40 am 2) if you building a concrete grade crossing, determine where the track is located and leave a trough in the concrete 4.5" deep by 16" wide. Cut 4x4's to sit down in the trough. Leave 1.5" between 4x4's. Maybe cut cross slots to allow for drainage. Install the rails on the 4x4's...can even have a curved track thru the grade crossing. Come back after the rails are installed with 1-by or 5/4 planks to deck the crossing. If you use 5/4 planks...make sure no locomotive has gear box underneath that extends below the rail head height.
Yes, you can insulate the crossing from track either side but this is not a good solution, even with fancy timers because, if a short train (box cab, etc.) comes to a stop on the isolated crossing the block gets cleared and the signal system/maintainer gets blamed unjustly.