Cylinder cocks

[rudd]

I'm curious if anyone has tried to make cocks that look and operate prototypically. I've about noodled out a way to make them w/o castings, though I could cast if needed.
We had to have a new one machined from stock to replace a missing one on an engine at the museum, so I am familiar with how prototype ones operate.
Is the issue getting a good seal between the valve and the seat?

I think I want to start with steam operated, but would move to this later. Who sells the steam operated set-ups?

[NP317]

Keith Sternberg (Washington State) built prototype cylinder cocks for his Allen Ten Wheeler.
They work just fine.
RussN

[cbrew]

I made this using a off the shelf fitting

[wbarbe]

Where did you find the fittings?

[cbrew]

The are standard 1/8 npt to 1/4 flare fittings.

[pat1027]

A collection of information.
http://ibls.org/mediawiki/index.php?tit ... nder_cocks

Shows in their catalog. Seems like there are a supplier or two of the round Teflon diaphragm type.
http://www.keimsteampump.com/

I have a set of the of the automatic type shown on the IBLS website. They work good for letting water dribble out. A mix of water and steam as you first start will push them closed.

[Pipescs]

Extremely interesting project. You should do a how to series

[rudd]

cbrew, that is genius! I just noticed the little "pistons" to push the ball UP.

[KarlKobel]

I built the 'automatic' type from some commercial samples (Railroad Warehouse IIRC).
The original samples had little disks in the bottom part.
I thought it was to even the force on the diaphragm when steam was applied.
But that isn't possible, it isn't a piston and the steam would not press on the disk, it would just go around.
It wasn't till I used them for a while that I realized what the disk is for.
It is to prevent the distortion on the diaphragm when water in the cylinder gets forced out in automatic mode.

If you make the one of the ilbs automatic versions, I suggest you add the disk.
It should be slightly thinner that the counter bore in the bottom part.

Karl

[Mike Walsh]

cbrew, that is genius! I just noticed the little "pistons" to push the ball UP.

Actually, it might be the other way around... I will leave it to Chris to respond... I could see the ball being the bearing surface to push the piston up, off of a seat.

WF&P #534 uses a poppet type piston cylinder cock that is pushed up by a similar bar that Chris is using in his design. Push up to allow passage of steam, debris, etc., and remove the upward force to allow it to close. From time to time they gum up with stuff (teflon tape is usually a contributing factor), so we have to disassemble and clean with brake cleaner, ensure there are no burrs - deburr if needed, then reassemble, reinstall, and run. Probably the most painstaking part is making sure each one goes back in the same place and they are tightened properly such that they are aligned so the bar does not bind up.

[Lovesthedrive]

The Railroad supply American also has the same type of cylinder drains

[makinsmoke]

One of our members supplied me with drawings for the manual cylinder cocks. Sorry. Forgot who it was. My brother in law was kind enough to make some for me along with a couple of spares and spare balls.

They hang down, just like the steam clocks, so are at risk in a serious derailment. Make extra parts.

But lots of early and slide valve locos had the manual cocks.