Mich-Cal 1.5 Shay.

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Lovesthedrive
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Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2011 10:52 pm
Location: Downeast Maine

Re: Mich-Cal 1.5 Shay.

Post by Lovesthedrive »

Nice to know
1969 MF 40 Industrial
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oscar g
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Location: Prescott ,AZ.
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Re: Mich-Cal 1.5 Shay.

Post by oscar g »

I have completed the burner plate and dam (damn) section. Bill Harris, definitively had a sense of humor, when he designed this combination of 45 hole rings (2) and a dam plate that requires a circumferential gap of .015 (no explanation of how to do this) the dam is floating on a liquid of molten silver solder. My solution, after a lot of "French" (my neighbors think i'm bilingual) their dogs show up, they are mainly of German extraction, some German Shepherds and one a Rhodesian Ridgeback. My Rottweiler knows when to leave, French is not her language, she lays in the sun, on our deck and ignores me. The solution I came up with, was to shim the ring with small pieces of .015 feeler stock, 90 degrees apart this kept the dam (damn) ring from floating away from the burner plate ring.
Another "teaser" he came up with, was to spin the drip pan out of copper. (Nay Nay), John Pinette), I don't have a piece of .032 copper sheet, I will spin? a piece of .034 steel sheet that I have. Since this is a totaly different area for me. I looked it up on you-tube, there I saw two British guys spinning metal that appeared to be 4ft. wide into a shape using wooden tools. My piece of metal is going to be less than 5" diameter, and (I won't be using wooden tools). How big a problem is this going to be? Here are a few of my trial pieces, and the final drip pan. The form to shape the edge is MDF. The metal is held in place by friction, using the tail-stock to apply pressure, slow speed in back-gear, changing the angle of the roller bearing, until the lip is at 90 degrees. Trim the edge to 3/16". Final finish was to bead blast the burner ring, to remove traces of flux.
Fait accompli.
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oscar g
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Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2016 3:48 pm
Location: Prescott ,AZ.
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Re: Mich-Cal 1.5 Shay.

Post by oscar g »

Here are my versions of the clamps I'm using to hold the globe castings from PM Research. The ones for the lathe were from a designe in "Live Steam Magazine" some time ago. The rectangular block on the mill is the one I prefer, the top face and the side face can be cut in one 90° pass. Centering the drill over the globe-valve face is easier (for me) with use of the drill sleave.
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