Could I get some lessons about shopping for a locomotive build?

[Bill Shields]

As for building the tender...well you could make it out of plywood and cover it in varnish and paint.

As silly as it sounds..the Purintons ...as did I believe Bill van Brockiln..did that for years and there are several of their locos out and running well into 50 years of use. Charlie used to say "I like building locomotives..not tenders".

Any time you purchase anything regarding this (or any) hobby...look at the big picture. Having what you need when you need it goes a long way toward progress..and you end up with bins and racks full of 'extra' whatnot so that you can move forward when you are in the mood to do so.

It's all a part of the fun.

[Mike Walsh]

I'm with Ken on buying a whole box if the need is for more than about a dozen. It often works out to be the same price for the box as buying them in those maddening packs of three. McMaster has some nice hex head stainless screws in small sizes. While the heads aren't perfect scale, they are good enough for many places that aren't right in view. They have them down to 2-56 and the prices are reasonable. Here's a link:
https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/head-ty ... screws-10/

Looking at the price breakdown, a 100pk of 4-40 SHCS, 5/8" long, is $8.96. That's 8.9 cents. One thing to consider is that you can use SHCS screws with an allen wrench while you build your locomotive. Then when it time for the final build (after painting all the individual components), you can use the proper scale fasteners. The Black Oxide SHCS screws will handle the repeated assembly/disassembly cycles like a champ, not sure I would say the same for scale fasteners. I also spray down my screws (and the threaded holes) with brake cleaner whenever it's disassembled probably 80% of the time. I don't want to ruin a part or screw just because some crud got in there and galled up the threads.

I would suggest going through your booklet, counting out each fastener and how many you need. Use a post it for each page. Create a bill of materials so you know exactly how many you need for the build. Then order 25% or 50% extra. That'll help you in the long run. Keep 'em in their boxes until you need them. McMaster Carr is easy to order from and they usually have 1-day shipping, but sometimes 2-days depending on how things go. I was surprised when my most recent order of (8) short-length drills took 2 days to arrive.

[LVRR2095]

Speaking of investing in the future, the single best investment you can make is to join a local live steam club right now. Meeting with fellow steamers is the best way to learn. You can not only ask questions about machining and such, but also the local sources of supply. You will learn which metal supply houses will sell cut offs, which industrial supply house will sell small quantities to non-business accounts. And the swap tables at meets will also supply you with a LOT of what you will need.
Now is the time to join, not after you have had to learn all of the above on your own.

[KarlKobel]

I agree with Greg, get the longest in the size and cut them as needed.
I made a small block with multiple threaded holes.
Thread the screw in to the length you want and use it to guide the saw and use it before you remove it to sand it flat.
Then all you have to do is make sure it doesn't fling across the room chamfering it.

Karl

[vlnmkr]

Mr. Crispin on youtube has an interesting but perhaps over complicated set up involving a self made collet for cutting down and chamfering fasteners.

M. Becker

[Greg_Lewis]

Well, I don't go to that extent. I have some electrician's cutters for stripping wire and crimping the crimp connectors. They also have threaded holes in them for cutting a few of the common threads. They do cut evenly but are really only for common steel and brass. I wouldn't use them on hardened or stainless. For the latter I use a cutoff wheel, gripping them with pliers or in the bench vise. I also have some heavy duty electrician's pliers with some mondo cutting blades in the back of the jaws that will cut darn near anything. I just finesse the ends in the little vertical bench belt sander, holding them with my fingers (which still have skin on them!).

Obviously, if I know I'll need a bunch of a certain length, I order that. Cutting long ones is for when you need a half dozen or less. If more, I buy the right length.

Having said that, once I needed a bunch of special length screws for some trucks. Anyone who has built trucks knows that you need a whole bunch of everything as there are eight journal boxes, etc. etc. So I made up a bit of angle iron with threaded holes that I could clamp in the bandsaw and slice off the screws in batches. You can see that there are nine screws in the angle, and I had several batches to do so it was worth the time to drill and tap the angle. Here is a photo:

[Bill Shields]

I run a die on the screw...Dyke it off then file or sand to length...and run the die off to clear the threads.

Very blacksmith..

[rkcarguy]

I can find these in the hardware store drawers where you can buy 1 at a time but not the more economical box where it's cheaper per screw. Am I likely to find 4-40 in a box?

Whenever I go to the hardware store drawers, it seems like the one thing I want is the one space that's sold out. Sites like McMaster-Carr and MSC Industrial will definitely have it in stock if you are willing to buy a box.

This is true, plus, they will want ~18-25 cents each, when one can order a whole box of 100 from McMaster-Carr for around $12 in stainless.
I personally do not like #4-40's or smaller in any application that is not only for looks, and if I had a little CNC mill I'd run #6's and mill a hex on socket head cap screws down so they looked like flange bolts.

[rkcarguy]

Having said that, once I needed a bunch of special length screws for some trucks. Anyone who has built trucks knows that you need a whole bunch of everything as there are eight journal boxes, etc. etc. So I made up a bit of angle iron with threaded holes that I could clamp in the bandsaw and slice off the screws in batches. You can see that there are nine screws in the angle, and I had several batches to do so it was worth the time to drill and tap the angle. Here is a photo:

DSCN7381.JPG

I love this little fixture, going to have to make one of those!
Question: Have you ever had one of the screws try to back out? I can't help noticing that the saw is cutting in a direction that would try to back the screws out.
I have a bunch of 3/8-24 cap screws I have to cut to 7/8" long, and I need 16 per piece of rolling stock...

[Greg_Lewis]

Question: Have you ever had one of the screws try to back out? I can't help noticing that the saw is cutting in a direction that would try to back the screws out.
I have a bunch of 3/8-24 cap screws I have to cut to 7/8" long, and I need 16 per piece of rolling stock...

I cranked them down tight in the fixture. I suppose a nut on the outside end would also work.

[Bill Shields]

And I am building a steamer loaded with #3 and #2 hardware. #4's are major structural hardware.

[milwiron]

Shild,
Not everyone's cup of tea but you can make many of your own bolts.

Making nuts and bolts is boring and pretty mindless but on some Sunday afternoons that's all I feel like doing. In the picture are 5-40, 6-32, 8-82 and 10-32 "scale" hex head bolts and some nuts from an afternoon of turning.

Same thing with the 5-40 thread oil cups. I didn't want brass cups on my engine so I made 'em out of steel. A couple hours on a Sunday afternoon of making chips with not much thinking involved.

Btw, I don't make all of my own, Godshall's is an excellent source to purchase hardware.
Denny