Could I get some lessons about shopping for a locomotive build?

[shild]

So I've got my book of plans, castings and several other parts I need to build a locomotive. Not sure about the best way to go shopping for the rest I need? The way I've been doing it, is to start building the tender from the ground up and only go to the hardware store for parts I need in the very near future. Maybe I should be looking way ahead? For example, I'm going to be needing 10-32 brass screws and nuts for the tender tank, maybe I should go through all the pages looking for every 10-32 brass screw and nut and buy them all at once? Also this loco requires a lot of 4-40 screws. I can find these in the hardware store drawers where you can buy 1 at a time but not the more economical box where it's cheaper per screw. Am I likely to find 4-40 in a box? I'm thinking about checking off the parts in the pages maybe 1 color if I know it's complete and another color if I know I have a piece of stock for it. Is this a good way to go?

[NP317]

Just acquire hardware for one project at a time, as needed.
I guarantee that you will later discover the desire/need for different items than you earlier purchased. And from different suppliers.
Building our locomotives is a process of cumulative knowledge.
Enjoy the process.

The only reason in my mind to acquire EVERY part up front is if you plan on moving to northern Alaska/Siberia/where-ever, no longer near resources.
And you will still not have what you need...
RussN

[SteveM]

If the screws show, you probably want to use model engineering bolts, which have hex heads instead of phillips or slotted.

Your local hardware store probably doesn't have those.

If you think you are going to use a lot of one or two sizes, you might want to buy a bunch of them at a time instead of 10 now and another 20 next month.

Steve

[RET]

Hi shild,

You are at the stage where you don't even know what you need to know yet. Don't sweat it and just be patient, we have all started in the same place and you will be making the same journey that we did.

Because we all have traveled the same road that you are starting down, you will find that a lot of us are quite ready to offer our best knowledge and advice to you. We have all benefited from the advice of others on this website and so it is nice to be able to do a little "payback."

For many of the things you require, you will have to go to industrial suppliers like the ones I mentioned previously. A long time ago, I went to one of them to build up a supply of socket head capscrews from #10-32 down to #3-48 and #0-80 in 1/2" and 3/8" lengths.I also have some in bigger sizes, but not as many. Where possible, I bought them by the box since that way they are a LOT cheaper. I even have some sizes in stainless.

Regular mild steel has a tensile yield strength of about 60 thousand psi. and in the small sizes we use, screws made from mild steel break too easily. By contrast, stainless socket head capscrews have a yield strength of 120 thousand psi (twice) and regular capscrews are 180 thousand psi. or three times that of mild steel. While socket head capscrews are both hard and strong, you can still machine and drill them and even silver solder them too. They are strong enough that you really have to work at it to break them, just what we need in the hobby. If looks matter, you can machine a hex on the head. In my case, I use the little CNC mill to do this.

For all these reasons, I use socket head capscrews a lot because I'm more the practical type and in what I do, things should look good, but to me, appearance isn't more important than function. If you countersink the head, they aren't quite as obvious.

Hope this helps.

Richard Trounce.

[kcameron]

If you have the plans, I'd say spending the time to review the 'most used' is worth while. Also think of any that might get used, putting on and later removing regularly like for maintenance etc.. and up the count for what you will lose or break. I suspect you will find a fairly short list of ones you want by the box. As for types, the hex or socket head are best for easy of use and generally looks.

If the usual box was 100 each, if while looking things over I counted over 25, I'd tend to buy the box. It likely works out equal to 25 of the singles.

The other thing you might not be able to figure out while starting is where you could substitute one size for another to reduce the total number of sizes. If it didn't show and the parts allowed for changing a size it could help you keep things simple. Keep in mind that whatever you put together, there is a high chance you will be taking some of it apart multiple times. Having spare hardware becomes very handy then as some don't come out as easy as they went in.

[NP5002]

Great source for what you need.
https://godshallscustommachining.com

Look at their online store.

[Pontiacguy1]

My advice: If it's a bolt that is up where you are going to see it, like holding the top of the tender tank to the tender sides, or holding the tender body onto the frame, then use model hex bolts. You can purchase them through several suppliers on the web, such as the one in the previous post. If it's going to be down on the frame where it's not as easily seen, then use socket head cap screws which are much stronger than the model bolts. Also, one of my mentors once told me this: "When ordering bolts/fasteners, order twice as many as you think you need. You'll always lose or mess up a few, and you'll always come across that odd job you didn't think about that will require 5 or 6 bolts of that size."

Get yourself a mult-drawer small parts organizer, label it, and keep your bolts and other fittings in there so you can find them when you need them. you can mount this on the wall out of the way, and it is a great way to keep your small bolts and nuts organized. I have one that I keep taps/dies in as well. It has a drawer labeled for #0, #1, #2, #3, #4, #5, #6, #8, #10, 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", etc... you can buy a decent one for probably $20 or so, maybe even less at Harbor Freight or somewhere like that.

[hoppercar]

Don't think to much into it and confuse yourself....just relax and take it one step at a time

[jcbrock]

I can find these in the hardware store drawers where you can buy 1 at a time but not the more economical box where it's cheaper per screw. Am I likely to find 4-40 in a box?

Whenever I go to the hardware store drawers, it seems like the one thing I want is the one space that's sold out. Sites like McMaster-Carr and MSC Industrial will definitely have it in stock if you are willing to buy a box.

[pat1027]

Hardware I like to buy ahead. It's cheaper than buying ones and twos at the local hardware. Plus for whatever reason it seems like 10-32 is an item they don't carry much of. Though it seems there is always something I don't have. I'd buy ahead but not sweat getting everything.

Depending on where you get your steel maybe maybe not. If you have a source for cheap drops having a list is handy for targets of opportunity. If it gets shipped to you shipping can add up buying ones and two.

If you are buying casting I'd buy ahead lest you get halfway through and suddenly they are not available.

[Bill Shields]

I have left over hardware from 40 years of builds plus donations from friends.. and still need to purchase some from time 2 time.

Is nature of the hobby.

[Greg_Lewis]

I'm with Ken on buying a whole box if the need is for more than about a dozen. It often works out to be the same price for the box as buying them in those maddening packs of three. McMaster has some nice hex head stainless screws in small sizes. While the heads aren't perfect scale, they are good enough for many places that aren't right in view. They have them down to 2-56 and the prices are reasonable. Here's a link:
https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/head-ty ... screws-10/

Another source for small fasteners is Micro Fasteners (https://www.microfasteners.com). They have a good assortment of much smaller stuff you would have trouble finding elsewhere. I like their brass scale hex head bolts and nuts.

Something I do with such specialty fasteners is to buy longer ones and then cut them off when needed. I do this particularly with brass screws as they are so easy to cut.

Regardless, Murphy says no matter how many you have, you will not have the size you need, and that need will be late on a Sunday afternoon!

Here's a photo of just one of my many bins and drawers of screws and parts: