Could I get help picking a set of reamers?

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shild
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Re: Could I get help picking a set of reamers?

Post by shild »

NP317 wrote: Tue Feb 16, 2021 10:57 pm For those wheels (I have machined those exact same castings) I adjusted them in the 4-jaw so that the inside of the outer rim ran true.
All other surfaces will be machined anyway. This results in wheels win no visible "radial wobble."
It's an obsessive-compulsive thing with me...
RussN
Yeah, I just put one in the 4-jaw and indicated off the inside of the outer rim. Of course the needle rattles several thousandths off the casting so it's more of an average thing I guess? Then I decided maybe painting them first is a good idea? Waiting for paint to dry right now for another coat, Might have to indicate off the wheel tread so I don't mess up the paint. By the way, I've got 18 of these wheels for pilot tender and riding car. Was going to do all 18 before moving on to each next step, but maybe I should just complete 1 axle as a dry run before I make a mistake on all the rest? I'm thinking I can use that 1 axle as the pilot so it doesn't stand out next to the rest if it looks a little different.
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NP317
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Re: Could I get help picking a set of reamers?

Post by NP317 »

I did all the machining first, then painted the finished wheels.
Paint on the treads wears off. No biggie to over spray them.
RussN
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milwiron
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Re: Could I get help picking a set of reamers?

Post by milwiron »

Everyone has a slightly different method but what I do is as NP317 suggested, indicate off the inner surface of the outer rim or off the hub. Castings can look pretty wobbly otherwise. A larger tip on your indicator can help with some of the readout bouncing.

For the rest of the turning-
I face the back to the wheel, drill and bore the axle hole to size and then cut a clean-up cut on the OD of the wheel that I left sticking out of the 4 jaw.
I then flip the wheel in the 4 jaw, indicate in so there's no runout on the back face that's now towards the chuck and cut to width. I make sure all my indicating is within a thou. I machine all the wheels in the set to this point.

The rest of the turning on the front face and flange area of the wheels I do on a mandrel that is cut at that time for the purpose. All the finish turning is done at one time before taking a wheel off the mandrel. Having that slight area on the OD that was cut at the same set-up as the axle bore gives me one more area to double check before I do the flange area.

As I said, everyone has a different method, mix and match what suits you. Reamers are cool when properly used, I prefer to bore axle holes especially in castings since a small void or inclusion can send your drill off course.
And... paint is the last thing I worry about but that's just me.
Denny
"Measure twice, curse once."
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Harold_V
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Re: Could I get help picking a set of reamers?

Post by Harold_V »

milwiron wrote: Wed Feb 17, 2021 10:14 am I then flip the wheel in the 4 jaw, indicate in so there's no runout on the back face that's now towards the chuck and cut to width. I make sure all my indicating is within a thou.
If you've read any of my comments in regards to soft jaws, you'll understand why I make mention here.

Once multiple pieces have received their first machining, so that reference points have been established (in this case it would be the back face and the clean-up cut on the flange perimeter, which you would take to finished size), the parts are a prime candidate for being held in soft jaws. They can be inserted time and again without loss of concentricity and perpendicularity, and it takes but a couple seconds to make the change. There is no need for dialing in each wheel. The real benefit being that all if the operations can be completed except for the flange radius, including the bore, in the same setup, so everything is in proper relationship, with the added bonus of having the ability to return each of the pieces to the lathe should you have need. They are automatically registered, as the soft jaws offer registration points, which may or may not be an option with a four jaw. This hack is very common for production (more than one-off) work, as dials or a DRO can be relied upon.

With all wheels completed, one would then be required to make a simple flanged spud setup so the wheel flange radius could be machined. The wheels to be held by tailstock pressure with a live center. Fast in, fast out. If slippage is a concern, a drive pin can be incorporated in the spud. Simple!

In any case, the time saved in not having to dial in each wheel is greater than the time involved in making the soft jaw setup, and the level of precision, assuming the setup is done correctly, offers even greater precision (soft jaws will typically repeat within a half thou without effort). It makes your work day so much more pleasant and productive!

Just sayin'!

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
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milwiron
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Re: Could I get help picking a set of reamers?

Post by milwiron »

Couldn't agree more with using soft jaws for more than a couple of wheels though I don't believe the op's (shild) current 3 jaw shown in another thread has master & top jaws.
Denny
"Measure twice, curse once."
Kimball McGinley
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Re: Could I get help picking a set of reamers?

Post by Kimball McGinley »

Need help staying on subject? Maybe opening a new thread?
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milwiron
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Re: Could I get help picking a set of reamers?

Post by milwiron »

Kimball McGinley wrote: Thu Feb 18, 2021 4:08 pm Need help staying on subject? Maybe opening a new thread?
Here's the op's (thread starter) post H and I were trying to answer, you're welcome to have at it-
shild wrote: Tue Feb 16, 2021 7:06 pm Thanks for the replies everyone! For what is probably the most important reamer to do the wheels, I got a 5/16 Morse. This pic is of the tools I plan to use from top to bottom to do each wheel. First I indicte in the 4-jaw, then face off, then center drill, then 19/64 drill, then 5/16 ream. Is this how I want to do that wheel? Should I be using a larger center drill? Drivers call for a 7/16 reamer and I think I'll try to bore that.
"Measure twice, curse once."
Kimball McGinley
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Re: Could I get help picking a set of reamers?

Post by Kimball McGinley »

looks like the thread hung a sharp left turn on the 16th - I gave up on it because it was 3 pages of reamers....
shild
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Re: Could I get help picking a set of reamers?

Post by shild »

Kimball McGinley wrote: Fri Feb 19, 2021 11:52 pm looks like the thread hung a sharp left turn on the 16th - I gave up on it because it was 3 pages of reamers....
Well the picture I posted on the 16th has a reamer in it.
shild
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Re: Could I get help picking a set of reamers?

Post by shild »

milwiron wrote: Wed Feb 17, 2021 10:14 am Everyone has a slightly different method but what I do is as NP317 suggested, indicate off the inner surface of the outer rim or off the hub. Castings can look pretty wobbly otherwise. A larger tip on your indicator can help with some of the readout bouncing.

For the rest of the turning-
I face the back to the wheel, drill and bore the axle hole to size and then cut a clean-up cut on the OD of the wheel that I left sticking out of the 4 jaw.
I then flip the wheel in the 4 jaw, indicate in so there's no runout on the back face that's now towards the chuck and cut to width. I make sure all my indicating is within a thou. I machine all the wheels in the set to this point.

The rest of the turning on the front face and flange area of the wheels I do on a mandrel that is cut at that time for the purpose. All the finish turning is done at one time before taking a wheel off the mandrel. Having that slight area on the OD that was cut at the same set-up as the axle bore gives me one more area to double check before I do the flange area.

As I said, everyone has a different method, mix and match what suits you. Reamers are cool when properly used, I prefer to bore axle holes especially in castings since a small void or inclusion can send your drill off course.
And... paint is the last thing I worry about but that's just me.
Denny
So it starts out something like this huh? Which do you think is the more rigid setup? Top pic cause it all doesn't overhang as much? Or bottom pic cause jaws are ingauged in the chuck better?
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milwiron
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Re: Could I get help picking a set of reamers?

Post by milwiron »

Hi Shild,
Either is ok. The top picture gives you more room to work and more chances to smack knuckles and finger tips on a spinning jaw. The bottom pic will be a bit more ridgid with less room to maneuver tools around. Personally, in your instance I'd go with the bottom pic. Others on here have done many more wheels than me and might have better advice.
You're doing good!

Edit: I should add I like to do the back side first. With my indicator mounted on the cross slide I use an extension to indicate the inner rim of the casting by going between jaws. Stupid sounding I know but it's a process I used many times in toolrooms/machine shops.
And... as H would say with the number of wheels you're doing if you have the equipment to use soft jaws that would be a quicker way to go.
Denny
"Measure twice, curse once."
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NP317
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Re: Could I get help picking a set of reamers?

Post by NP317 »

I would go with the lower setup. Having the jaws not hanging out so far is safer, and it seats the casting directly on the jaws' front surface.
Again, machining the front first allows you to center the outer rim and bore the axle hole in one setup.
But it can be accomplished differently to do the back first, using additional procedures to achieve the same concentricity.
The joys of machining.

Swoosh!... Just do it.
RussN
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