Could I get tips on dumpster diving for materials for your build?

[SteveM]

Thanks for all the replies guys! I've learned a lot today. Would like to know more about test to figure out what kind of metal you have.

Google "spark test".

When you apply certain metals to a grinding wheel, the pattern of the sparks can give you clues to what kind of metal you are dealing with.

Steve

[John Hasler]

You can often get a pretty good idea what kind of metal you have by considering what the part did in its former life. Even when you didn't pull the part off a dead machine yourself its shape can tell you a lot. A piece of rusty I-beam is certain to be A36. A ground and polished shaft is likely to be heat treated carbon steel.

[Greg_Lewis]

And if you buy new, mark it so you'll know what it is later. I continue to fail to do this and have a lovely assortment of unknownium. Yes, you can tell the stainless from the carbon steel, but separating the 303 from the 304, or the 12L14 from the 1018 can be confusing and time consuming. And sometimes you just can't tell.

[Bill Shields]

I have dozens of orange Homer Buckets from home depot. Each had a designation on it.

I also use a lot of masking tape and magic marker

[shild]

Thanks for the replies everyone! I foolishly thought that maybe I could turn "The Club" into something else but no, that is hardened steel and can only be ground! So I tossed it, at least I save drawer space now.

[SteveM]

And if you buy new, mark it so you'll know what it is later.

Mark it at BOTH ends and along the length if it is a long piece.

If you cut off the only marked end, you are screwed.

Making up a color code is a good idea, and a set of colored paint markers will let you mark things quickly and easily.

Steve

[tsph6500]

BTW… there's a big difference between "scrap" metal and garbage. I classify "scrap" as bare metal off-cuts, over-stock, etc that have no paint, powder coat, foam, or other coatings that require removal prior to machining, cutting, or welding.

The removal of coatings is not worth the time nor potential health hazards.

[shild]

I have dozens of orange Homer Buckets from home depot. Each had a designation on it.

I also use a lot of masking tape and magic marker

For bar stock I've been thinking about using milk crates and sliding pieces through the holes. Cut some of it away for the bigger pieces.

[shild]

BTW… there's a big difference between "scrap" metal and garbage. I classify "scrap" as bare metal off-cuts, over-stock, etc that have no paint, powder coat, foam, or other coatings that require removal prior to machining, cutting, or welding.

The removal of coatings is not worth the time nor potential health hazards.

You mean you won't just prime and paint black over the paint it already had? Why? Because people will see the color it use to be if you scratch it or wear the paint away? So far, I've only worried about de-rusting before priming.

[Steggy]

BTW… there's a big difference between "scrap" metal and garbage. I classify "scrap" as bare metal off-cuts, over-stock, etc that have no paint, powder coat, foam, or other coatings that require removal prior to machining, cutting, or welding.

The removal of coatings is not worth the time nor potential health hazards.

You mean you won't just prime and paint black over the paint it already had? Why? Because people will see the color it use to be if you scratch it or wear the paint away? So far, I've only worried about de-rusting before priming.

You wouldn't want to have to deal with paint if welding is involved.

[Mike Walsh]

Before you go crazy dumpster diving, perhaps you should review the construction book for the Raritan that you are about to receive (or have received). It will tell you what all you need. You may find that you don't need as much material as you initially thought.

I agree, don't dumpster dive if you can help it. I have picked up many drops of metal from a friend's shop, sometimes for free, sometimes for scrap rate. One of the parts that this shop makes requires that they cut 5-6" diameter holes in 2" thick aluminum plate.... And this is done on a water jet. I pick up the slugs for next to nothing and keep them in my shop for various things!

Buy what you need so you know you have the right material on hand. You will need to pick up copper for the boiler for the Raritan - I don't think you want to experiment with "dumpster find" copper that is probably not to spec for the boiler. You will be able to find small drops of material for next to nothing if you look around, and properly befriend the right folks. Axle stock should cost you a few bucks. Frame material maybe twenty bucks, tops..

I will say that if someone kept coming to me saying they were going to go dumpster diving left and right for materials for their next build, when they are trying to build a new locomotive, I'd probably be a little less than enthused about helping out from a mentorship or a "pay it forward" aspect. But if I saw that you were being serious about your build - planning out all the materials you need, figuring out what tools you need, I might be more inclined to offer some material from my stock... I have lots of material, and doubt I will ever use it all - might as well go to someone who is in need of it.

That being said, I wouldn't immediately start trying to befriend folks on the forum - they'll probably see right through it. You have already been extended an olive branch in the form of a free raritan casting kit, don't burn that bridge. Others are unknowingly waiting in the toll booth lane to cross that bridge... It's up to you if you will wreck the bridge or re-pave the driving surface.

Take the time to read the build book, take the time to plan out all the materials you need, and start a thread about your new build. Maybe folks will see you're serious about it.

[John Hasler]

I don't take "dumpster diving" literally. Getting drops for free counts as "dumpster diving" in this context.

I really don't understand the hostility to the idea of repurposing junk and scrap in order to save money.