This is my workbench now, what can I do to improve it?

[shild]

The main issue with groves in the faces on vices is how aligned are they? If they are cut right the vertical is vertical to the mill and the horizontals also perpendicular to the mill. Problem is getting that perfect alignment. For a drill press, they are handy and can be 'good enough' for that use. The two vices over there have them. But with milling, you want the vice to be really accurate.

Hopefully good enough to make a live steamer. Plan to make another cut in each of the jaws so that it would be the equivelent of a couple of parallels supporting something. Should be perfect until the next time I have to take the jaw off and put it back in.

[shild]

accuracy and speed are not very compatible in manual machining.

I had to give this some thought before commenting, as it bears some truth. However, I strongly disagree. Fact is, high volume precision production has always been a demand. It's the concept of interchangeability that allowed high volume production, and that can't happen without a high degree of precision. Tracers, screw machines and, later, before CNC's, NC's allowed for high volume and precision, but even before them man was already producing tight tolerance work and doing so rapidly. Had he not been able, the average guy couldn't have afforded an automobile.

None of this is to be construed as essential in one's progress in the home shop, where speed is generally not of great importance, but it should be at least in the back of one's mind, as there are times when you will be called upon to make a large number of items. It's really nice to have a firm understanding of how that's done, so one should understand setups, and how metal is moved, plus have a concept of finishing. Nothing kills incentive like having a high volume of parts to make and none of these methods are apparent. As an example, think of making more than one of anything on a lathe, and being restricted to a rocker tool post.

Learn the value of good job planning. It's very disheartening to take a cut on a part, only to discover that the metal shouldn't have been removed yet because it is needed for a setup that would, otherwise, be far more difficult, or even impossible.

Learn the value of taking roughing cuts, whereby large volumes of metal can be removed without concern for size, although one is well served to make roughed parts reasonably identical, so they are easier to finish.

Learn the concept of identical light passes, so tool deflection becomes a minor issue.

Learn the value of tool sequencing, so each move is of short duration, and is reliable. That's quite important when you must make tool changes multiple times per part.

Learn the value of work holding, so parts can be inserted time and again without concern for registration.

Combine these things and you can produce close tolerance work reliably and quickly.

Keep in mind----World War II was fought without the use of CNC's, or even DRO's. Don't get lulled in to the notion that without them, man is crippled. He is not.

H

I agree. Before I begin a locomotive I should probably look at every part and plan out how I'm going to do every piece first?

[shild]

Thanks for the replies everyone.. I've changed things slightly since those pics, I'll take more pics when I change it more. At the moment I've got the spindle out of the mill so I can try to get the keyway out as Pete suggested. There is a nut and locknut that keeps the whole thing together, having problems getting them off. Not hex nuts but they look something like this. Could these nuts be left hand threads? https://fortwayneclutch.com/product/dan ... ku-660568/

[Harold_V]

Before I begin a locomotive I should probably look at every part and plan out how I'm going to do every piece first?

Not necessarily. It should be understood that you most likely must make each piece, so if you're willing to tackle the project, commit to doing so, then pay attention to each piece when it's time to make it (or them). The whole idea is to have an idea how you're going to go about making the piece so you don't eliminate material that might be needed for a given operation, or you don't do something stupid, like taking a feature to size when you haven't roughed the part entirely. If you have little experience, that may not be possible, however.

It's hard to know what to do and when to do it when you've never been there, done that. In such a case, seek advice, hopefully from someone with experience. I'm not keen on following the advice of others who may not really understand the problems, yet still offer guidance to others. My philosophy in that regard is I can make mistakes without outside help, but if I hope to learn proper procedures, it's best to consult those who know, not those who think they know. There's usually a world of difference between such individuals.

H

[pat1027]

I agree. Before I begin a locomotive I should probably look at every part and plan out how I'm going to do every piece first?

To a degree. Assuming you build a successful design with the capability of your equipment, it would be a good idea to give some thought to the overall sequence. But I would say you do not have to plan how you will do every piece ahead of time. For instance you can bore the journal boxes without completely planning how you will machine the side rods. In my opinion though it is best to have the drivers done and in the frame so you can double check the crank pins center lines before making the rods.

A successful design will give an added benefit of the experience of those who have already built one.

It may depend on your personality. You build a locomotive for your own fulfillment. If you are a meticulous planner who wants to have thought through every detail then perhaps. I think it can be a mistake to try and look at the whole thing at once. A locomotive is a battle of pieces. Enjoy the journey.

[NP317]

Both the Raritan 2-4-0 and the Kozo A3 have books with building instructions. HIGHLY recommended!
Kozo's words are more detailed for a beginner. You will learn methods and lessons applicable to anything you choose to build later.
My opinion.

I have ALL the Kozo books (priceless knowledge), and a Raritan partially built as a 2-6-0,
which all taught me lessons required to build my 1/8th scale steamers.
RussN

[shild]

Both the Raritan 2-4-0 and the Kozo A3 have books with building instructions. HIGHLY recommended!
Kozo's words are more detailed for a beginner. You will learn methods and lessons applicable to anything you choose to build later.
My opinion.

I have ALL the Kozo books (priceless knowledge), and a Raritan partially built as a 2-6-0,
which all taught me lessons required to build my 1/8th scale steamers.
RussN

A Raritan as a 2-6-0? How do you do that? Completely different frame rails?

[NP317]

Raritan variant:
Extended frames, with the third axle behind the firebox.
Years ago I was (am again some day?) making a 3.5" gauge version of Nevada County Narrow Gauge #2, a 2-6-0.
The Raritan running frame is naturally almost there. Boiler size is correct too.

I just ventured out to my shop and took two illustrative photos, attached.
RussN

[shild]

To a degree. Assuming you build a successful design with the capability of your equipment, it would be a good idea to give some thought to the overall sequence. But I would say you do not have to plan how you will do every piece ahead of time. For instance you can bore the journal boxes without completely planning how you will machine the side rods. In my opinion though it is best to have the drivers done and in the frame so you can double check the crank pins center lines before making the rods.

A successful design will give an added benefit of the experience of those who have already built one.

It may depend on your personality. You build a locomotive for your own fulfillment. If you are a meticulous planner who wants to have thought through every detail then perhaps. I think it can be a mistake to try and look at the whole thing at once. A locomotive is a battle of pieces. Enjoy the journey.

Yeah. Can you tell me more about this? I probably want to finish all the wheels before I make any axles incase I accidentally bore the axle hole a little too big on some, I can compensate leaving more meat on an axle? Which side of the wheels do you think should be machined first?

[shild]

Raritan variant:
Extended frames, with the third axle behind the firebox.
Years ago I was (am again some day?) making a 3.5" gauge version of Nevada County Narrow Gauge #2, a 2-6-0.
The Raritan running frame is naturally almost there. Boiler size is correct too.

I just ventured out to my shop and took two illustrative photos, attached.
RussN
IMG_3761.JPG
IMG_3762.JPG

I see. So the front stays the same but cab gets pushed a couple inches back and boiler is extended? Along with the flues?

[NP317]

If I continued building this 2-6-0, I would change the rear frame by shortening it to match the drawings of NCNG #2.
Then the Raritan boiler could be used unaltered.
Because I did not draw up all the required changes before machining the frame as it is now, some work needs to be rethought and re-machined.
And this is a perfect illustration why your first locomotive should be an unaltered, well proven design.

I think your question about machining the drivers is well answered in the Bill Morewood book "Building the Raritan."
(But my locomotive library is still in boxes after a move, and I can't look at the book to verify that.)
Kozo Hiraoko built the locomotive shown in the book. (If I remember correctly...)

I highly recommend you purchase a copy of the Raritan book to help answer many of your general machining and sequencing questions,
and to help you decide which locomotive to build. Also get one of the Kozo books (I have and study them all).
Perhaps the one on building the A3 0-4-0 locomotive, since you might be interested in it.
This will make your learning process much more efficient and enjoyable.
RussN

[pat1027]

Can you tell me more about this? I probably want to finish all the wheels before I make any axles incase I accidentally bore the axle hole a little too big on some, I can compensate leaving more meat on an axle? Which side of the wheels do you think should be machined first?

When I turned my drivers I was more proficient at turning an O.D. than I was with boring so I did just that, bored the wheels first then machined the axles to match. Generally the back of the wheel is turned first.