What wheel arrangments work best on a high line?

[tsph6500]

I've been fortunate to run a lot of locomotives, from 0-4-0 to 4-8-8-4 in 3/4" scale. Small engines like the Tich can be very frustrating to learn on, so look for something you like (this is important), has a generous fire grate area, pumps more water than you need, and suits the limits of your budget, transport, storage, etc.

[FKreider]

I'm going to add the comment that the best arrangement is one that you are able to build and run. This whole conversation is a moot point if you never complete your build and/or it sits in your shed and is never run.

[Pontiacguy1]

the best arrangement is one that you are able to build and run. This whole conversation is a moot point if you never complete your build and/or it sits in your shed and is never run.

AMEN! This is why I always try to encourage the novice builder to start with a locomotive that is smaller with fewer wheels and moving parts, something that you can finish in a reasonable amount of time. A small to medium 0-4-0 in 1 1/2" scale will take about 1,000 to 1,200 or so shop hours to get up and running, depending of course on the skill and speed of the builder. One in the smaller scales should take less time, but not by a whole lot. So when you start thinking about a 3/4 scale locomotive build like the Kozo A3 or the Raritan, it is likely to take 600 hours or more of shop time. Most locomotive projects are a huge time investment. That huge time investment better start paying off at some point, and the sooner the payoff point arrives, the more likely it is that the project will be completed. Once you have something up and running, then you have something to go have fun with and it usually keeps you motivated. Now you can go build your 'dream' locomotive and take as much time as required, using the skills you developed building your first locomotive.

I've said it for years and I will keep saying it: A running 0-4-0 is a whole lot more fun than a half-finished Pacific chassis sitting on your bench!

[KidAmato]

Shild,
I am going to have to agree with Pontiacguy1 and Jack B. on this.

Something like the Raritan or the tanker Jack mentioned are great options (assuming you're choosing a locomotive to build). Sometimes though, you must go with what you've got. For example, I have been plugging away at my little forney conversion (see thread link attached below). It was originally a Coles 1" scale 0-4-0 that I decided to convert to an 0-4-4t in 1.5" (ish) scale. Why do this? I love narrow gauge forneys, and I bought a complete chassis that ran on air for a very reasonable price. The biggest thing I have learned with this little 4 coupled locomotive is how enjoyable it is to watch it come together. The more axles involved, the more time consuming (and potentially frustrating) it will be. I can say from experience that working on both of my Fitchburg Northerns is a lot more work than my little 0-4-4t.

http://chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtop ... 42#p413642

To directly answer your initial question about what's best, I will just advise to choose something you can manage. I mean that from an operational, maintenance, and convenience standpoint.

Hope this helps.


Best Wishes,
Nico A.

[GregE]

My experience building and running a saddle-tank modified Kozo A3 is that there aren't problems at speed- it'll run a fast as I'm comfortable with on our high-line!
An 0-4-0 has better traction than a similar weight loco with additional axles. Like others have said- a larger boiler and grate will be more forgiving and give more traction.
Mine can haul two healthy adults- it doesn't look likely but it works!
Mostly find a design you're excited about to help keep your momentum going.

Here's a lap around the St. Croix Railroad behind my A3a
https://youtu.be/pVF5uuLTzFQ

[jcbrock]

Thanks for posting that, Greg. I've never been around the highline, but it was worth the effort.

[Andy R]

I'd like to emphasize a comment by Jim Leggett: "... pumps more water than you need ..."
My Heisler pumps almost enough ... but not quite. I never crack open the bypass and i have to operate the hand pump occasionally.
Whatever loco you choose ask folks who built and run them if the loco pumps more water than needed. My Virginia and Raritan do.

[JBodenmann]

Hello My Friends
Greg's A3 really gets with it. The engine has a very nice bark when working steam. Great Run!
Jack

[GregE]

I can almost smell the coal smoke thinking about it! I probably had a flat car with a cinder block behind me for load to get a better draft and bark.

The type of run matters with the water for mine. Running faster and continuous I can leave the axle pump bypass cracked open, but before we rebuilt the highline I had to run point to point and often had to stop to hand pump.

Hopefully John we can take a run next time you visit! (and when we can have meets again). We hardly had to adjust the track at all this year now that all of the old posts are replaced and it's settled in for a few years.

[shild]

Thanks for the replies everyone! Now I know to worry about the boiler more than wheel arrangement.

[Pontiacguy1]

That was a cool video! Shild: Whatever locomotive you build, if it performs like that one does, then you'll be happy with it. You see how the Kozo A3 runs in that video... A 2-4-0 Raritan would be about the same performance-wise. Right now, there are some 3/4" locomotives for sale in the for sale section. If I had 1,500 bucks laying around, I'd buy that 2-6-0 mogul myself... Immediately. It's about 90% finished and it really looks like a the piping is the last major thing left. That would be a great locomotive to have. Any of the 0-4-0s would be excellent as well. I know it can be difficult to come up with that cash sometimes, but this will give you a good idea of the cost of one.

[shild]

Just learned about these locomotives that have a way to move their weight from pilot trailing trucks to drivers. How does that work it's just a spring pulling it up? They talk about it at 46:47 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lR8Rk_ayjUQ