Economy Box 'n Reef

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ccvstmr
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Location: New Lenox, IL

Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by ccvstmr »

IN THE BEGINNING...

Hello again fellers. Thought I'd run another thread regarding the construction of some freight cars. Per the subject of this thread, a box car and reefer. Figured if I was going to build one...might as well make enough parts to build (2) cars. So, you're welcome to ride along, ask questions and comment as the thread evolves. But for now, we'll start like this...

At a time, long, long ago (Dec. 2005)...in a galaxy not so far away (SW 'burbs of Chi town)...and idea was born to build something to simulate a steel-sided box car and reefer to drag around behind my Rutland 10 wheeler. Thought it would be fitting then, to build a Rutland box car. The Rutland supposedly had about a dozen refrigerator cars in their fleet. Never could find any photos. But at that point, (1) Rutland car in the fleet was enough.

Found a few photos on line of Rutland box cars. Even purchased G gauge and HO gauge Rutland box cars for reference. At that time, didn't know what "flavor" refrigerator car would be built. Pulled out my trusty 1940 Kalmback Car Builders Encyclopedia to study line drawings of both the box and reefer. Had already purchased a couple pairs of cast aluminum dreadnaught car ends. For the most part, those castings pretty much fixed the car widths and height. The encyclopedia provided info on car lengths. A few sketches were made and construction began.

As mentioned in previous threads, my shop is not sufficiently equipped with tools for sheet metal work. Anything constructed, would have to be built from plywood and made to look like steel. Decided to follow a practice I had been using...and that was to slice up 2x4's into 1" thick strips. These would make up the car interior side and end wall frames. Before ripping the 2x4 into wall frame pieces, used a dado blade to cut slots across the entire 2x4 for the upper and lower rails for the wall studs. This assures once the 2x4 is ripped into strips...all the cut outs for the wall studs would be opposite one another. Yes, one end of each strip was marked to keep track of which end faced North. The table saw fence was used to insure all the studs were the same height. Here's the beginning stack of wood for the car frame.

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Wall frame sections were assembled on a old piece of kitchen counter top from years ago. This allowed me to assemble, glue, screw and clamp the wall sections as square as possible.

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Decided to cover the entire car body using 3/4" plywood. Bad choice. For the floor...3/4" ply was fine. For the sides, wanted to avoid 1/2" plywood that would yield a "wavy" appearance. Wouldn't have problems with wavy 3/4" plywood being so thick. Then again, most steel sided cars from the period DID have wavy steel panels for the sides. No so much today as the railroad steel sides are sufficiently reinforced. The trade off was the extra weight weight. By the time these cars were completed, the extra thick plywood walls added as much as 15 to 20 pounds to the car weight. So YES...if I had to do this over again...would have gone with 1/2" ply wood sides. Maybe used more wall studs on the interior.

As the car body starts to take shape, the side was sections are glued 'n screwed to the plywood floor. Made some "wooden triangles" to use when squaring up the wall sections. Keep in mind my by-line at the bottom...Built Strong to Last Long! If anything, these cars are overbuilt.

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Wall sections (side and end) were fastened along the edge of the plywood floor board on the underside. This meant, when attaching the end and side wall plywood pieces, the plywood sides and ends would "lap" the plywood floor. As such, the end wall pieces of plywood would be attached to the car 1st. This would be followed by attaching the side wall pieces that lap the end plywood edges. Everything was adequately glued 'n screwed. A 1x2 center spreader is glued 'n screwed to keep the sides parallel for the side plywood was attached. On lighter cars, that center piece doubles as a hand hold and lifting point. Get it located right, 'cause once the side sheets go on, there's no way to access the Phillip dry wall screws.

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As the car body starts to take shape, the cast aluminum ends were clamped in place. Eventually, the cast-in coupler draft gear and corner poling pockets would be removed for something I thought would look better.

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Same for the box car doors...clamped in place to visualize how the end product will look. We'll eventually cover how the aluminum castings were attached to the car body. At this point, both car bodies are interchangeable. Similar dimensions and construction techniques were used.

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Next entry, will have to start separating the construction of box and reefer. Stay tuned. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
DRS_RR
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Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by DRS_RR »

Look forward to following along Carl. Always pick up some tip or technique I'll be able to use down the line.

Dave
ccvstmr
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Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by ccvstmr »

Hi Dave...good to hear from you. Thanks for "looking in" and stay tuned. Hope you find something you can use down the track. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
Posts: 2230
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
Location: New Lenox, IL

Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by ccvstmr »

NOT AT ALL SPINLESS

Got ahead of myself in the last entry. There's one more item that's common to both the box and reefer...the center sill.

Years ago decided to fabricate my own center sill with integral coupler pockets...and never looked back at other alternatives. Always believe having steel connected coupler pockets was better than cast draft gear boxes with integral body bolsters. Having steel from end-to-end subjects the car body to no train stresses. This type of construction weighed less than using rectangular tube. I try to keep the car weights down around 100 pounds...but have to admit, the weight on these cars, the box in particular, tipped the scale at 125 pounds. Weight is a good thing...but not when plagued with occasional back problems.

Have used 1/4" thick, 3/18" thick and even 1/2" thick steel for the center sills. For the box and reefer...had some 1" x 1/2" thick steel. Here's another point where excess weight was "built into" the car. The thicker center sill allowed for a lap joint to be welded on the ends where the center sill and shallow channel coupler pockets overlapped some 2 or 3". The length of the center sill is determined by setting the outboard couple pocket leading edge 1/2" from the of the car. Drilled a 1/4" pilot hole at the king pin locations and came back later to open the hole and tap for the king pins. This hole location were eventually transferred to the car floor with the other center sill mounting holes described next. The king pin stays captive to the center sill.

Can't say how many shoulder/stripper bolts I've pick up at various RR tracks where looseness and gravity are a constant enemy. For my cars, I start with a long bolt and cut off the hex head. After opening and tapping the hole in the center sill, thread the bolt in place and secure the king pin with a jam nut. After the body bolsters are built up to yield the proper coupler height above the rail, the excess bolt is cut off leaving a short stub to stick out below the truck bolster. The king pin end was tapered and a cross hole drilled for an "R" clip or "hairpin clip" to hold the truck captive to the car, even when lifted for re-railing.

For the coupler pockets start out as a 12" long piece of 2" wide shallow channel. To this, welded a couple 2" long pieces of 1x1x1/8 angle on the ends. The shallow channel has a 3/16" thick web...this results in a vertical coupler opening of 13/16" for the coupler shank. From there, used a 2x4x3/16" thick or 1/4" thick steel for the coupler plate. #7 mounting holes are drilled to the sides, 1" back from the edge. A 5/16" hole was drilled for the coupler pin. The couple plate was clamped to the welded shallow channel assembly and the hole locations transferred to the shallow channel. The angle "ears" were then tapped 1/4-20. Those mounting holes in the coupler plate are opened to no more than 5/16". Want to be able to pull the coupler plate easily if necessary in the future. The coupler pin is made with a long 5/16" hex head bolt with enough non-threaded shank to just barely clear the shallow channel. This hex bolt is eventually welded to the coupler plate. 3/4" long hex head bolts are screwed into the angle iron ears with Loctite to secure. Sometimes, I'll put a lock washer under the bolt head too.

There was a time (years ago) when my eyesight and stick welding abilities were better. Still...these parts are not coming apart. There's going to be a whole lot other damage before the center sill assembly fails. Holes were located for the king pins...and the center sill was drilled and tapped accordingly. About every foot...a 1/4" hole was drilled for a carriage bolt to mount the center sill to the car floor. A nut and lock washer or Nylok nut would secure. While I've never tried this...it would be possible to unbolt the cars from the center sills and have a skelton car train.

Here's some photos of the finished assembly...without and then with the coupler plate in position.

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With the car body upside down, a centerline was drawn down the length of car floor plywood. The center sill was centered end to end and the 1/4" mounting holes are transferred to the car body (start in the center). After the hole is drilled slide a bolt in the hole to help hold the center sill line up a hole at the end with the pencil drawn center line. Drill. Hold with a bolt. And finish drilling the rest of the mounting holes.

Once all the 1/4" hole locations were transferred to the car floor, including the (2) king pin hole centers, the center sill was set aside. A hole saw was used to open the holes for the king pin nuts.

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With the car body right side up on some test track sections, the body bolsters were built up using small pieces of wood to find the correct thickness that put the coupler heights within the proper height range. When the car was flipped upside down (again), the final body bolsters were glued and screwed to the car floor. The steel body bolster plate was drilled and screwed in place as well.

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Now, years ago, I used 3/8" bolts for the king pins. Found, over time, these were subjected to derailment damage (bending). Started a program to upgrade all the king pins on my riding cars to 1/2" bolts. On new equipment...started off with 1/2" king pins from the start.

To initiate this upgrade on the box and reefer, stood the cars on end. Removed the (2) body bolster plates and the 1/4" screws holding the center sill. Body bolster plate holes were opened to 33/64" (just over 1/2"). The (2) center sill king pin holes were re-drilled and tapped for 1/2-13 threaded king pins. Lastly, the holes in the plywood floor had to be opened for a 1/2" nut and a socket. Could no longer use a paddle/spade bit. Took a hole saw and made a new pilot so the original hole would help guide the hole saw thru the floor.

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And when the modification was completed, the updated center sill was remounted to the car floor.

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In some of the photos, you might have seen items that haven't been addressed (yet). I will cover those in the future. NOW...box and reefer car construction details will deviate. Will discuss the car siding next time. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
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Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by ccvstmr »

CASTAWAY

Seem to have gotten ahead of myself when describing "what's next". Readers might have seen the cast aluminum dreadnaught ends in a few photos and even the cast aluminum door for the box car (that's one way to tell the difference between the box and reefer). However, you might be wondering how were these castings attached to the plywood box. So, here goes.

Method of fastening...T-nuts...1/4". Not familiar with these? These nuts look like a "T" section, with barbs on the flange. As the screw is tightened, the barbs are drawn into the inside of the plywood to hold the nut and prevent the nut from rotating. These are used often for furniture. Used a paddle/spade bit to cut away one of the inside plys so the T-nut sat flush or slightly recessed inside of the car.

Before that, the end castings were drilled for the 1/4-20 flat head mounting screws. The casting was clamped to the car end and the hole locations transferred to the car and drilled thru the plywood car wall. At that point, the castings are designated for each end and would not be interchangeable. The aluminum casting holes were countersunk on the outside...deep enough so the head was below the casting surface. As you can see in the next photo, put (2) holes in the wrong place. Those holes were in the wall frame on the car interior.

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Next photo, you see (2) of the recessed T-nuts on the very right of the photo. Can also see the carriage bolts on the car floor that hold the center sill and the clearance hole drilled to access the king pin nut in case service is ever needed. As previously note, the king pin was eventually up-sized to 1/2. Therefore, had to make a floor hole larger for the 1/2" nut and drive socket.

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The holes and countersunk heads would eventually be covered over with JB Weld and sanded to the contour. Sprayed some gray primer on the screw heads to see if additional JB Weld filling was needed. Let's just hope NONE of the casting would ever need to be removed. The box car doors were fastened in the same manner.

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Readers might have seen the end beam in a few photos. The original dreadnaught end castings had a cast in draft gear and poling pockets. Didn't like those. So, removed those and finished the bottom of the casting straight.

Used some 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8" steel angle to make the new end beams. Left sufficient space on the ends to use drive screws to hold some Tom Bee cast plastic poling pockets in place. Machined tabs where the safety chain eyebolts could be attached (btw...I've found the best way to attach safety chain eyes...drill/tap the holes for 1/4-20 and nut BOTH sides to lock the eye bolt and prevent it from rotating if it gets loose. Like to use 1/4-20 flange nuts on the outside. Looks better than a basic hex nut.) Lastly, there's a larger tab in the center where a machined piece of aluminum is fastened to look like the draft gear.

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If you look just over the top of the tabs, you can see LOTS of holes drilled and countersunk into the other angle iron leg. Used more than a couple dry wall screws to anchor the steel end beam to the end of the car floor. Those drywall screws are anchored into the 1" wide car end wall frame...NOT into the plywood end grain (little to no support there). Firmly believe if a car derails and uncouples, the eye bolt will straighten BEFORE the end sill gets ripped from the car underside. But...let's not find out!

Next photo is a close up view of the draft gear. This was made from a piece of 1/2" aluminum. Carved away most of the material leaving 1/8" ribs. The corners were beveled and holes were drilled for the mounting screws. Note to self...leave more room when using hex heads to allow space for a nut driver.

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Here's one last view of the end sill showing the "return" on the sides. This provided additional strength for the vertical angle iron leg...but would also provide a challenge when it came time to design/install the corner stirrup step.

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Some of might have figured this out already, but the next question in the car construction would be...HOW to make a plywood box look like a steel sided car? So, next time, we will get into that. Stick around (no pun intended). Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
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Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by ccvstmr »

BUZZ TIME

C'mon down to the shop boys, we gonna git a "buzz" on!

Well, if you haven't noticed from some of the previous photos...how do you make a plywood box look like a steel-sided freight car? Aluminum flashing! Purchased aluminum flashing from an area Menards store. Flashing is available in 12" or 15" widths and was .010" thick. The flashing was reasonably inexpensive (15 years ago). And the material was thin enough to cut with a decent scissors...or at least, cut into manageable pieces. Be careful when removing the taped coil...else, it'll spring open.

Wanted to cut the flashing material into pieces approximating the steel panels on the car sides. After determining the width dimensions, used a shear to start cutting up the sections of flashing into panels that had square cuts and the proper width (note: all panels were not the same width). Those panels were then cut to length...which in this case was the height.

Used contact cement to affix the aluminum panels to the car sides. Yes, had the shop fan exhausting whenever applying the contact cement. Didn't know if exposure to the elements would create any expansion or contraction issues for the car sides. All of the side panels were cut so they were 3/8" short on the top and bottom. Those spaces would eventually be covered over by the corner edge trim...never to be seen again. In addition, allowed a 1/4" overlap of the panels to insure a good "seal" for the car sides.

Panel reference lines were drawn on the car sides. Those pencil lines extended to the upper and lower edges of the car sides. This would be the overlap reference. Contact cement (solvent based) was applied to a few of the panel sections on the car side as well as the backs of the aluminum flashing. When ready, started to apply the panels at the car ends and worked towards the center. If there were any alignment errors...those would be covered over by the box car door casting.

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Starting at the outboard edge and starting by setting the panel EDGE on the car to align before started to lay the panel down in place...was able to position the panels properly. Lucky me...never had to rip anything up and start over. Used a rubber roller to "work" the flashing down onto the car surface. Wanted to avoid creating air bubbles under the flashing. If you've applied vinyl graphics to a car, it's the same method...work you way across the vinyl to slowly lay the vinyl down on the surface. The aluminum flashing is a bit thicker than vinyl. Still, once started, held the inboard edge of the aluminum flashing until I could sufficiently roll the flashing into place. After each panel was rolled into place, had to go back and apply contact cement to the trailing edge of the previous panel for the next panel. Excess cement was removed later with solvent.

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After the first 3 panels had been rolled in place, was time to switch to the other end of the car. When that was done, came back to the 1st end and applied contact cement for the next 3 panels and so on. This flip-flop order of flashing application continued until the center of the car wall was reached. There, one large-r piece of flashing was applied under the area where the box car door casting would be mounted.

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What's next? When all the aluminum flashing had been applied, was time for the trim. Like building a house, the trim covers up the raw edges and hides some flaws at the bottom of the walls and around doors and windows. Same concept applied here.

Used 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" alum angle along the top and bottom car side edges. Holes were drilled on 1/2" spacing (scales to 4" spacing). The burr on the underside of the angle was removed using a drill. The face of the aluminum angle was countersunk using a drill just slightly larger than the escutcheon pin heads. Want to think I went back and put a dot of Superglue on each pin head and wiped off the excess to prevent the pins from popping out over time. For an approx. 60" long car, that meant there were some 120 holes per angle...and there were 4 of these long angle per car. Well, if you want the look...you gotta do the work!

On the ends where there was a seam between the dreadnaught end castings and the aluminum flashing...1/2" x 1/16" alum flat trim was used. Holes were drilled in the trim pieces for all (4) corners on 1/2" spacing once again. Those hole locations drilled into the edge of the end casting. Drive screws were used to secure the trim to the aluminum casting thereby, covering up the end seam.

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For the door rails...used a piece of 1/2" aluminum angle at the bottom with the inside facing out. Had to be careful the bottom edge angle did NOT have any pin heads where the lower door rail was located. For the top of the door, would use another piece of 1/2" aluminum angle. This time, with the outside covering over the top edge of the door casting. Machined several small aluminum spacers to fit inside the angle to support the aluminum door rail. Those spacers were screwed into place using flat head screws. Would then drill the door top rail and spacers to accept drive screws to hold the upper door rail in place.

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Precision Steel Car cast door stops were used for the door open rail ends. The box car doors were attached the car in the same way the end castings were installed. Holes were drilled thru the door casting and car side for 1/4-20 flat head screws. The door holes were countersunk deep enough to eventually have the screw heads covered over with JB Weld and sanded flush with the casting when cured.

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Had originally thought about installing a row of escutcheon pins where each aluminum flashing panel overlapped the previous panel. Decided against that for several reasons: 1) more work, 2) would look terrible if the pin heads were not in perfect alignment and 3) too great a risk of missing the pin head and "dinging" the side wall OR drive the pin head down to far and again, leaving a dimple in the aluminum panels. So, without the vertical rows of pins, the panel joints look like they COULD have been welded.

Additional aluminum angle trim would later be added along the bottom edge of the car sides to look like other under frame members. Those were screwed "up" from the bottom edge of the car into the plywood wall.

At this point, it was 2014. Already 9 years since construction was started, it would still be 7 years before I'd get around to the paint finish. Finishing aluminum castings was not a concern. Have been doing that for years. Give the piece a good sand blasting and paint away. There was no way I'd sand blast the aluminum flashing on the car sides. Didn't know then the best way to put a paint finish on the aluminum flashing, but knew I'd figure that out in time. We'll cover that later on when the rest of the mechanical work has been completed. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
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Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
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Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by ccvstmr »

STILL BUZZ'N

With work on the box car sides completed, switched back to the reefer. While the aluminum flashing side panels were a different width, the process of applying the sheathing to the plywood box was the same.

After all the side panels had been affixed to the plywood, it was time to apply the upper and lower edge trim. Used 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" alum angle for this. Drilled holes every 1/2". Deburr the holes on the back side and countersunk the holes on the face for the escutcheon pin heads. Would come back later and apply a "dot" of Superglue to each pin head, let that sit for a few seconds and then wipe away the excess.

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The "faux" under frame members were added under the just installed aluminum angle using cut off materials. These were located and drilled first with a pilot hole for the screw. Would come back and open the holes for the screw shank. Since the fasteners for these are out of view, used round head screws to attach.

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The "doors" were then installed. These were smaller pieces of sheared aluminum sheathing. Had a reefer detail kit from Mercer Loco Works...used the hinges from that kit. After locating the hinge position, used small round head brass screws to hold the hinges in place. Figured the round head screws were the next best thing to the round head rivet detail already on the hinge. A drip shield was installed over the door...made from 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/16" aluminum angle. This too was held in place with escutcheon pins.

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When the car was turned right side up and the roof panel set in place, got a first glimpse of the steel-sided reefer car body.

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An end view of the reefer shows how the roof panel bends followed the contour of the car end castings.

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At this point in time, still didn't know how the roof panels would be assembled for the roof ribs, roof walk and roof walk risers. While pondering the roof build up, turned my attention to fabricate many of the details for the box and reefer. Will get into some details next. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
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Steggy
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Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by Steggy »

Just to interject here...Carl's articles and photos on car-building, while very interesting as he illustrates methods and practices, really can't do justice to the finished product. Over the years, I've seen, in person, these cars (and a caboose or two) "come to life" in his shop. You really have to see them in the flesh to appreciate the end result. :D

BTW, here is a short video of some of his cars and one of his cabeese in action (and a pox on the greedy b*st*rds at Google who now attach advertising to all videos). Those cars would make any train look good.
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Music isn’t at all difficult.  All you gotta do is play the right notes at the right time!  :D
ccvstmr
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Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by ccvstmr »

BDD...THANK YOU! You realize, of course...when you get the CNW F-7 motor completed that you've been working on, these (2) simulated steel-sided cars will look at home in tow in the train consist. Hopefully, you'll finish the F-7 this year before Winter sets in. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
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Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
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Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by ccvstmr »

DETAILS, DETAILS - CORNER STIRRUP STEPS

Detail work for both the box and reefer took place between 2012 and 2021. When I had a chance, I'd peck away at various items that were needed while I contemplated how the roof panels would be fabricated.

One of the first details addressed were the corner stirrup steps. Used 1/8" x 1/4" cold rolled steel for these. Yes, these are a bit out of scale, but they'd be nearly indestructible (HOPE!). Or more appropriately, kick proof! I'm not a vicious person by nature, but I really dislike having to do repairs to something because of someone else's carelessness. So...the stirrup steps were...Built Strong, to Last Long!

There was a catch for the stirrup steps, they had to be mounted to the back side of the end sill "return". So they weren't exactly located at the ends of the car side sills. Drew something up with dimensions and then cut and formed the (8) stirrups needed. At this point, all stirrups were identical.

IMG_2024.JPG

So far, so good. Knew the horizontal leg would be screwed to the underside of the alum lower edge trim. The vertical leg would be fastened to the back side of the end sill return. Silver soldered a piece of flat stock to the vertical leg and had something that could be drilled, tapped and screwed. Now, made sure there were: (4) left hand and (4) right hand stirrups to do both cars.

Needed something to locate the screw holes in the end sill return to fasten the stirrup step. Machined a little right angle square that could be clamped to the return to drill holes appropriately. Therefore, holes for all (8) stirrup steps would be drilled consistently.

IMG_2032.JPG

Once the return was drilled, the stirrup steps were clamped to the back side of the end sill return, in their respective corners, and the hole locations transferred to the tab on the stirrup step. The stirrup tab was tapped 4-40. The holes in the return were drill for 4-40 clearance.

IMG_2034.JPG

After the (2) stainless steel 4-40 button head screws were installed, could then go and drill the screw holes for the stirrup horizontal leg. Here, round head wood screws were used as those screws penetrated the aluminum angle and were secured in the plywood side walls.

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Here's a view from the back side. Probably put a dot of Loctite on the button head screws attached to the end sill return. But otherwise, thought this design and fastening arrangement would sustain some degree of foot abuse.

IMG_2037.jpg

One detail down...more to go. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
Posts: 2230
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
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Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by ccvstmr »

ROOF WALKWAY

While roof work was a long way off, knew I was going to need material for the roof walks and risers. Somewhere along the road of life, came across a piece of perforated steel screen material that appeared to be right for the application. The metal stock was probably around 24" long. Sheared the perf metal into 3" wide strips and used a brake to bend the edges down 1/4". A belt sander was used to remove the burrs and other sharp edges (funny how those sharp edges always find blood!). The folded down edges provide a small amount of rigidity for the roof walk.

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Knew a guy that did vintage car restoration work. Over the years, had him TIG weld broken aluminum castings. Showed him the perf metal and asked if he could weld that. He said come back in a few days. The ends of the roof walk sections were sanded to get the hole pattern in alignment from section to section. Sections were labeled. Made coupling plates so the connection points could be TIG welded.

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When the welding was done, had (2) roof walks about 63.5" long...enough to hang over the car/roof ends approx. 1"...without needing a roof walk end support. Could have used a screw at each end of those supports, (4) total per car to secure the roof. But those screws would have been 2-56 brass hex heads. Thought that was a bit flimsy. Figured I could forego the supports by keeping the overhand close to the car ends.

Here's the (2) roof walks, ready for installation...whenever the rest of the roof caught up.

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Next, was time to make the roof walk risers. Was going to need (24) risers to straddle the roof peak for the box and reefer, and in addition, would need another (4) straight risers for the short end roof walks on the box car. The reefer didn't have any raised roof walks on the ends.

Sketched up what was envisioned. Then, sketched what the roof peak risers would look like all flattened out. And added the forming blocks needed to bend the mounting flanges for the roof peak risers.

Found some scrap 1/16" sheet metal for the risers. Believe these were commercial parts drawer dividers...that would now be re-purposed. The material was thick enough to be drilled and if necessary...tapped. Originally thought I would use nuts under the roof walk for 4-40 screws. Decided to match drill/tap the roof walk to the risers BEFORE I'd have to deal with a bunch of nuts.

Don't remember which operation was performed first...might have done something like this: clamped a bunch of blanks together and slit the opening that would end up at the roof peak in the mill. Then, use a brake to form the top flat leg. That right angle bend would provide the reference so when the angled mounting flanges were formed, all the risers would end up having the same height.

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Here's a selection of roof peak risers, some straight risers, the forming blocks and a slitting saw. Extra risers were made in the event one of the holes in the sheet metal would end up where it wasn't wanted. Thereafter, all the risers sat in a box collecting dust for some 7 years before I'd get around to fastening the risers on the roof panels.

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Okay, another detail down, but there's still more to go. Stay tuned. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
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Steggy
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Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by Steggy »

ccvstmr wrote: Tue Jun 01, 2021 6:53 pmHopefully, you'll finish the F-7 this year before Winter sets in.
I'm workin' on it! If only the health gremlins would stay away... :(
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