Nickel Plate 762
Moderator: Harold_V
Re: Nickel Plate 762
Thanks, Jack. That helps.
In a response I received by PM, I was advised that Fluidline Systems is a source for such tubing and fittings as well. I have yet to explore, however, as my project is on a back burner at the moment.
H
In a response I received by PM, I was advised that Fluidline Systems is a source for such tubing and fittings as well. I have yet to explore, however, as my project is on a back burner at the moment.
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3866
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: Nickel Plate 762
Hello My Friends
Here is a small control panel that was made for Jims Berk. I usually put this panel in the tender in the top of the left water leg. Jim wanted it on the locomotive. This one fits at the back of the cab on theft side of the floor. When on the tender you have much more room to work with, so in this instance there wasn't enough room for the LED panel mount indicator lights that I usually use. There were some tiny incandescent lamps on hand so some holders were made up from 1/4" round stainless as we have in this first photo. I use red and green tinting lacquer to color the bulbs. As this lacquer is a bit delicate I wanted the bulbs recessed so it wouldn't get rubbed off during cleaning. Here is one with a green lamp installed and lit. And here is the panel. I have the lettered part made at a local trophy shop. Normally they hit the engraved lettering with some paint to give the letters some color. I have them omit this so the letters van be illuminated. The indicator lamps have been installed along with the small toggle switches and boots. In a dirty environment like a steam locomotive toggle switches should always be booted. Especially if the handles are facing upward. This little panel was a real challenge to keep as small as possible. And here is our little panel lit up in the darkened shop. The lighting will be more evenly distributed in the text upon final assembly. I will also tone down the lighting so as to just render the lettering visible at night. One green indicator lamp is also lit. The top four indicators are green, the bottom one is red for the back up lamp. The lamps in the panel will lite when the cab lamps are turned on. The cab lamps consist of the water glasses, air pressure gauges, and steam gauge. There will also be a general area lamp under the cab roof that will lite up the cab when needed. It will have its own toggle switch under the cab roof. These are just some little details that I like to add. They make running an engine at night more convenient and look cool. See You In The Funny Pages...
Jack
Here is a small control panel that was made for Jims Berk. I usually put this panel in the tender in the top of the left water leg. Jim wanted it on the locomotive. This one fits at the back of the cab on theft side of the floor. When on the tender you have much more room to work with, so in this instance there wasn't enough room for the LED panel mount indicator lights that I usually use. There were some tiny incandescent lamps on hand so some holders were made up from 1/4" round stainless as we have in this first photo. I use red and green tinting lacquer to color the bulbs. As this lacquer is a bit delicate I wanted the bulbs recessed so it wouldn't get rubbed off during cleaning. Here is one with a green lamp installed and lit. And here is the panel. I have the lettered part made at a local trophy shop. Normally they hit the engraved lettering with some paint to give the letters some color. I have them omit this so the letters van be illuminated. The indicator lamps have been installed along with the small toggle switches and boots. In a dirty environment like a steam locomotive toggle switches should always be booted. Especially if the handles are facing upward. This little panel was a real challenge to keep as small as possible. And here is our little panel lit up in the darkened shop. The lighting will be more evenly distributed in the text upon final assembly. I will also tone down the lighting so as to just render the lettering visible at night. One green indicator lamp is also lit. The top four indicators are green, the bottom one is red for the back up lamp. The lamps in the panel will lite when the cab lamps are turned on. The cab lamps consist of the water glasses, air pressure gauges, and steam gauge. There will also be a general area lamp under the cab roof that will lite up the cab when needed. It will have its own toggle switch under the cab roof. These are just some little details that I like to add. They make running an engine at night more convenient and look cool. See You In The Funny Pages...
Jack
- Greg_Lewis
- Posts: 3021
- Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 2:44 pm
- Location: Fresno, CA
Re: Nickel Plate 762
JBodenmann wrote: ↑Sun Nov 27, 2022 12:18 pm ....I have the lettered part made at a local trophy shop....
How about a little more on this? What is that made of? Is that a litho negative, piece of Plexiglas, or what? Thanks!
Greg Lewis, Prop.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Re: Nickel Plate 762
Pretty cool Jack
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3866
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: Nickel Plate 762
Hello My Friends
The material with the text is clear plastic about a sixteenth thick with a thin layer of black on one side. The black part is cut through with a digitally controlled router or laser. The invoice lists it as, REVERSE BLACK LASER CLEAR - NO TAPE, NO COLOR. They will often shoot the backside with paint to color the lettering. I have them omit this so the lettering can be illuminated.
Jack
The material with the text is clear plastic about a sixteenth thick with a thin layer of black on one side. The black part is cut through with a digitally controlled router or laser. The invoice lists it as, REVERSE BLACK LASER CLEAR - NO TAPE, NO COLOR. They will often shoot the backside with paint to color the lettering. I have them omit this so the lettering can be illuminated.
Jack
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3866
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: Nickel Plate 762
Hello My Friends
Here are a few snappies of parts for the Berk. First, couple shots of the operating quadrant for the Nathan 4000. Just one of many parts that must be disassembled and painted. The grip on the handle and the latch handle were given a light polish and then clear coated so the brass will remain bright. Next we have a junction box for the cab wiring. This is a new casting set that I have available. It has positions for many outlets. The ones not needed can be removed.
Here are a few snappies of parts for the Berk. First, couple shots of the operating quadrant for the Nathan 4000. Just one of many parts that must be disassembled and painted. The grip on the handle and the latch handle were given a light polish and then clear coated so the brass will remain bright. Next we have a junction box for the cab wiring. This is a new casting set that I have available. It has positions for many outlets. The ones not needed can be removed.
Re: Nickel Plate 762
Ok Jack, where is my Quadrant? lol Very nice.
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3866
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: Nickel Plate 762
Here are the connections for the air gauge piping. The copper tube is 1/16". Small tubing but still slightly oversize. Here we have the tube and the ferrule fluxed and ready to be soldered. Just a tiny piece of stay bright solder had been set in place and will now be heated with a propane torch.
But before fitting, some anti seize should be dabbed on. These fittings will only be exposed to air, but this step should still be done, but is really important to fittings that will be exposed to steam and water. Ready to be fitted up to the engine. Just one small detail of many. It goes on and on
Jack
Here the soldered parts are ready to be fitted to the gauge.But before fitting, some anti seize should be dabbed on. These fittings will only be exposed to air, but this step should still be done, but is really important to fittings that will be exposed to steam and water. Ready to be fitted up to the engine. Just one small detail of many. It goes on and on
Jack
- AnthonyDuarte
- Posts: 492
- Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2010 10:46 am
- Location: Orange, CA
- Contact:
Re: Nickel Plate 762
That quadrant really pops after painting!
One small detail, the position name plate looks to have been reinstalled backwards.
One small detail, the position name plate looks to have been reinstalled backwards.
Anthony Duarte
http://www.EccentricEngineer.com
http://www.EccentricEngineer.com
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3866
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: Nickel Plate 762
Hello My Friends
Oops...I hate it when that happens
Jack
Oops...I hate it when that happens
Jack
- Dick_Morris
- Posts: 2851
- Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 2:09 pm
- Location: Anchorage, AK
Re: Nickel Plate 762
You (Jack and Anthony) continue to amaze me.
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3866
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: Nickel Plate 762
Hello My Friends
Thank You Dick. Your compliment is very much appreciated. Putting the finishing touches on Jim's Berkshire. Jim wanted the left hand injector water valve mounted under the cab floor. I usually mount this valve in the tender water leg. Theres plenty of room in the water leg so a commercial plug valve is used. Under the cab floor is a different situation. I tried to find a spot for a commercial valve but couldn't fit one so a small plug valve had to be made. Here are some photos of how you might go about making such a valve. Here the main body is being made from 932 bronze. Why 932? Because that's what was laying around. Here the turned body has been transferred to the spindex in the mill. First the part was center drilled, then drilled out with a short drill bit to about 1/16" final size. When drilling into something round like we have here, the drill will often wander to one side. So the final cut was made with a brand new end mill. Perfectly on center! Here we have the main body, and the part that will will connect the piping to both sides of the valve, which has been drilled and tapped 5/16"- 40 on each end. There is about .002" clearance between these two parts to allow the silver solder to flow completely into the joint. This is important as this is a valve, and any voids could cause leaks. And this valve is in the injector water supply where any leaks that allow air in will cause the injector to fail. And here we have the parts silver soldered together. Ready to go for a swim in the acid pot. Making little special fittings like this is a large part of building a locomotive. Little adapters, spacers, union ells. You have no idea how many union ells are on this engine. Also union tees. These little fellows are often needed as there might not be room for an ell, a nipple, and a union. Even if there is more than enough room, it just looks cleaner. More to come
Jack
Thank You Dick. Your compliment is very much appreciated. Putting the finishing touches on Jim's Berkshire. Jim wanted the left hand injector water valve mounted under the cab floor. I usually mount this valve in the tender water leg. Theres plenty of room in the water leg so a commercial plug valve is used. Under the cab floor is a different situation. I tried to find a spot for a commercial valve but couldn't fit one so a small plug valve had to be made. Here are some photos of how you might go about making such a valve. Here the main body is being made from 932 bronze. Why 932? Because that's what was laying around. Here the turned body has been transferred to the spindex in the mill. First the part was center drilled, then drilled out with a short drill bit to about 1/16" final size. When drilling into something round like we have here, the drill will often wander to one side. So the final cut was made with a brand new end mill. Perfectly on center! Here we have the main body, and the part that will will connect the piping to both sides of the valve, which has been drilled and tapped 5/16"- 40 on each end. There is about .002" clearance between these two parts to allow the silver solder to flow completely into the joint. This is important as this is a valve, and any voids could cause leaks. And this valve is in the injector water supply where any leaks that allow air in will cause the injector to fail. And here we have the parts silver soldered together. Ready to go for a swim in the acid pot. Making little special fittings like this is a large part of building a locomotive. Little adapters, spacers, union ells. You have no idea how many union ells are on this engine. Also union tees. These little fellows are often needed as there might not be room for an ell, a nipple, and a union. Even if there is more than enough room, it just looks cleaner. More to come
Jack