Nickel Plate 762
Moderator: Harold_V
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3856
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: Nickel Plate 762
Hello My Friends
Here is a bit of an update on Jim's Berk. Lots of jumping around tightening up loose ends. Painting bits and pieces like junction boxes, conduit, and assorted parts like the mars lamp. Here is something you might like. I wanted pressure gauges for the air systems, main reservoir, train line, and engine brakes. Here is a little gauge panel that will fit to the back head above the fire door. This panel will hold some small 1" diameter gauges that you can get from McMaster. They are made with 1/8" iron pipe threads straight out the back. This isn't the ideal set up for models so I change the connection to downward facing unions for 3/32" copper tube as seen here. They are held in place with a threaded ring. And here we have the whole mess stuck together. The cylindrical part at the top of the gauges holds a grain O' wheat bulb. 1/8" continuous spring will be used to represent flexible conduit. Textured black paint was used for the field inside the brass half round. The gauge bezels, lamp housings, and the brass trim has been given a clear coat. I made some masters for a large junction box and they are being cast in brass at the foundry. This will be used to connect the lighting conduit for the three gauges here, the water glass lighting, and also the main boiler pressure gauge. I think this makes a pretty good gauge cluster.
Happy Model Building
Jack
Here is a bit of an update on Jim's Berk. Lots of jumping around tightening up loose ends. Painting bits and pieces like junction boxes, conduit, and assorted parts like the mars lamp. Here is something you might like. I wanted pressure gauges for the air systems, main reservoir, train line, and engine brakes. Here is a little gauge panel that will fit to the back head above the fire door. This panel will hold some small 1" diameter gauges that you can get from McMaster. They are made with 1/8" iron pipe threads straight out the back. This isn't the ideal set up for models so I change the connection to downward facing unions for 3/32" copper tube as seen here. They are held in place with a threaded ring. And here we have the whole mess stuck together. The cylindrical part at the top of the gauges holds a grain O' wheat bulb. 1/8" continuous spring will be used to represent flexible conduit. Textured black paint was used for the field inside the brass half round. The gauge bezels, lamp housings, and the brass trim has been given a clear coat. I made some masters for a large junction box and they are being cast in brass at the foundry. This will be used to connect the lighting conduit for the three gauges here, the water glass lighting, and also the main boiler pressure gauge. I think this makes a pretty good gauge cluster.
Happy Model Building
Jack
Re: Nickel Plate 762
Simply beautiful, hats off to you sir! I am sure Jim will be pleased.
Re: Nickel Plate 762
That's stunning! Plan to offer those air gauge sets for sale?
Also would love to see how you handle the multiple air connections between the tender/engine
Also would love to see how you handle the multiple air connections between the tender/engine
- SPSteam2491
- Posts: 271
- Joined: Tue Feb 21, 2017 2:30 pm
- Location: Mukwonago, WI
Re: Nickel Plate 762
I believe these are the gauges that are used for reference. https://www.mcmaster.com/38105K51/ That setup makes the gauges look so much better.
Jack, do you disassemble the pressure gauge to machine off the 1/8" NPT threads and plug the hole? How careful do you need to be when soldering on it?
Jack, do you disassemble the pressure gauge to machine off the 1/8" NPT threads and plug the hole? How careful do you need to be when soldering on it?
Thanks
John LaFavor
Pacific Design Shops
John LaFavor
Pacific Design Shops
Re: Nickel Plate 762
They look like NPT adapter 90s that screw onto the gauge.
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3856
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: Nickel Plate 762
Hello My Friends
Thank you Odycnuck, SPSteam2491, and Berkman. These little gauges are not difficult to modify. The first thing is to machine off the 1/8" NPT threads. You will have to make a holder like shown here. I used a short length of 1" brass. It was drilled and threaded 1/8" NPT. Tap so that the threads on the gauge only thread in about two threads. Tighten it slightly. Then the threads are turned off using a cutter similar to a parting tool. A regular parting tool will work just fine. Just turn it down until the threads disappear like this. Then over to the mill to drill and tap for the little union. I used a #8-48 thread as this fine thread will seal nicely when the union is screwed in. I put a dab of Locktite on the threads to seal them. Here the gauge has been removed from the holder so you can see the two threads that held it in. Normally I would part the gauge off instead of un screwing it like shown here. After parting off I will use an easy out the remove the threaded bit from the holder. Here is the finished gauge with the union fitted up. Here 3/32" copper tube is being used. A small round flat piece of brass was soft soldered over the hole in the turned down bit. Use a large soldering iron, I used a 250 watt iron. Flux and tin the disc, set it on the fluxed turned down bit and just touch it with the soldering iron. A large iron will heat the parts up instantly before the brass can heat up enough to melt the plastic gauge housing. You have to be quick!
Thank you Odycnuck, SPSteam2491, and Berkman. These little gauges are not difficult to modify. The first thing is to machine off the 1/8" NPT threads. You will have to make a holder like shown here. I used a short length of 1" brass. It was drilled and threaded 1/8" NPT. Tap so that the threads on the gauge only thread in about two threads. Tighten it slightly. Then the threads are turned off using a cutter similar to a parting tool. A regular parting tool will work just fine. Just turn it down until the threads disappear like this. Then over to the mill to drill and tap for the little union. I used a #8-48 thread as this fine thread will seal nicely when the union is screwed in. I put a dab of Locktite on the threads to seal them. Here the gauge has been removed from the holder so you can see the two threads that held it in. Normally I would part the gauge off instead of un screwing it like shown here. After parting off I will use an easy out the remove the threaded bit from the holder. Here is the finished gauge with the union fitted up. Here 3/32" copper tube is being used. A small round flat piece of brass was soft soldered over the hole in the turned down bit. Use a large soldering iron, I used a 250 watt iron. Flux and tin the disc, set it on the fluxed turned down bit and just touch it with the soldering iron. A large iron will heat the parts up instantly before the brass can heat up enough to melt the plastic gauge housing. You have to be quick!
Re: Nickel Plate 762
Super interesting. I bet you'd get some orders if you offered the 3 gauge assembly RTR. I didn't realize there were many 3/32 tubing fittings available commercially.
- Greg_Lewis
- Posts: 3014
- Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 2:44 pm
- Location: Fresno, CA
Re: Nickel Plate 762
Do I presume correctly that you cut a slot in the top of the plastic gauge housing so the light will shine through?
Greg Lewis, Prop.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3856
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: Nickel Plate 762
Hello My Friends
Don't never assume nothin'. Well actually that's a very good question. There is no need for a slot in the housing, as the clear cover stands proud of the black plastic case. You can see this in the above photos. The light from the lamp in the housing shines directly on the edge of the clear plastic. But there is still a little trick to "Let the light out of the plastic". I will explain later, but first I'll get some photos. This is one of them ones I figured out the hard way.
Jack
Don't never assume nothin'. Well actually that's a very good question. There is no need for a slot in the housing, as the clear cover stands proud of the black plastic case. You can see this in the above photos. The light from the lamp in the housing shines directly on the edge of the clear plastic. But there is still a little trick to "Let the light out of the plastic". I will explain later, but first I'll get some photos. This is one of them ones I figured out the hard way.
Jack
Re: Nickel Plate 762
Nor did I, and I am in need. The old B&S surface grinder I intend to rebuild has some 3/32" lubrication lines (these are aluminum, but copper would serve nicely), one of which has been damaged. I've had no success finding fittings or tubing, although I admit I haven't expended excessive energy on the search at this point. Maybe Jack wouldn't mind disclosing a source. Jack?
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3856
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: Nickel Plate 762
Hello My Friends
I make 3/32" tees and 90 degree ells. Aside from that I don't think there are any 3/32" fittings available. You can purchase 3/32" brass and copper tube from McMaster.
Jack
I make 3/32" tees and 90 degree ells. Aside from that I don't think there are any 3/32" fittings available. You can purchase 3/32" brass and copper tube from McMaster.
Jack