3/4" Scale J1e

[Harold_V]

What Jack said. That's particularly important with saw blades. Once a blade cuts steel, it rarely will cut copper alloys successfully. My experience leans towards the blade losing the ability to make a straight cut, if it will cut at all. I've experienced used blades simply skipping over the area in contact with the material. An excellent example of why copper alloys are used for bearings.

H

[Bill Shields]

I have red handles on my files...mostly from blood...

[Greg_Lewis]

I have red handles on my files...mostly from blood...

Some of you will remember my previous avitar:

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[JBodenmann]

Hello My Friends
Blood...I am sure you have heard the term, Blood Sweat And Tears. That's not just the name of a band from the seventies. It can literally apply to what we do. Hopefully more sweat than blood. The tears, not so much. But blood in MY shop...I like cloth band aids.
Jack

[Steam Engine Dan]

Hello My Friends
Thanks Mountaineer. That hold down was made just yesterday. All the others were too large. This one had to fit between the bolt holes. Usually they are crudely made in a mad rush, I took my time and did a nice job on this one. Something new, the other end is unfinished in case something special is needed in the future.
Thank you also to Greg, tiny end mills require a gentle touch. I don't recall breaking any new ones. Usually tiny end mills work fine and don't break if they are new and sharp, which this one is. All my end mills start out as brass end mills, in the brass end mill drawers. After they get a bit dull they go into the steel end mill drawers. The milling machine was wound up as fast as it would go, 4200 I believe. Then light cuts were taken. The material to be cut was .040" thick and two passes were made. Easy peasy. Brand new end mills and free machining brass is a wonderful combination.
Here is a photo and a drawing. I thought you might like a better look at a low water alarm. This is an oddly shaped little fellow. That's why some PVC plastic was used for the odd shaped part as it's much easier to shape than brass. Today some sandable primer will be shot on and filling and smoothing will start. I will probably have a go at the little valve handle too. These valve handles will come in handy later on. No shortage of things to do.
Jack

jack, question those B&W barco ad's look like they came from a book or magazine? could you tell me where you got them from? a good friend of ours who is now passed on sadly once told my dad and I that to his knowledge there were no drawings or prints for the barco anywhere. excellent work as always.

[little giant]

This is a drawing that I have, it may help you out.

[JBodenmann]

Hello My Friends
Thanks for the drawing Little Giant. Here is a some progress on the Barco alarm. The first warning whistle was too small so a larger one was made. You can see both in the top photo. Also some bosses that will be glued to the main body. The round valve handle is for the 1-1/2" scale Barco alarm. A smaller one will be made for the 3/4" scale alarm. The main body has had some filler added and then some sanding. Still a few more pieces to make.
Jack

[Bill Shields]

Can it be used to warn of warm beer?

[JBodenmann]

Hello My Friends
I like to test for warm beer by drinking it. If it's warm, and its still good,it's probably Guiness. If it's not too good, it's probably Coors.
See you in the funny pages...
Jack

[Mountaineer]

Coors is beer?

From the comfort of Canadian microbrewery land

Mountaineer

(Couldn’t resist…)

[NP317]

Drink a Coors and it soon becomes obvious that you are only renting it...

If the beer is warm, I'm in the UK having a wonderful time.
RussN

[JBodenmann]

Hello My Friends
Here is a valve handle for a 1-1/2" scale Barco alarm. It is .290" in diameter. A smaller handle will be needed for the 3/4" scale water alarm. For starters I will have a go at making a .250" handle. This will still be oversize, so if things work out a try at a smaller one will be made. Probably .210" diameter. Then to have a look, probably still oversize but it will have to do. Much of this will be done using the rotary table. I have had this brand new 5" diameter three jaw chuck for years still in the box. The plan was always to fit it to the rotary table. So a locating plug was made, and some funny offset hold downs. The rotary table has four T slots and the chuck has three points to hold it down. Then a length of 1/4" brass was chucked. Tomorrow morning the whittling will begin. Let's see...machine away everything that doesn't look like a valve handle
Jack