3/4" Scale J1e

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Asteamhead
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by Asteamhead »

JBodenmann wrote: Sat Jul 31, 2021 12:45 am Here the holes for the mounting screws are being chased. And another test fit, pretty good. Now that the drilling , filing, and buffing is done, the casting sprue can be nipped off. They make a great handle on tiny parts like this. The pins can now be pushed in, and the ends ever so slightly peened to keep them in place. Lastly we have our little gaggle O' hinges and hasp's ready for the full width turret casing. There are several doors, each with two hinges and two hasp's. Each hasp has a tiny hook and chain. Too much fun!
Jack
Hello Jack,
Your hinges are made in a kind we nickname as 'you shaved a little louse!' :)
Great achievement!
Asteamhead
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
Thank you Asteamhead. I had a great day playing in the shop. I have been fiddling about with the water glasses. Here are a couple shots of the back head. The fire door is just propped up for now on a piece of wood. It will actually set about an eighth of an inch higher. Not a lot of room to shovel two water glasses into. In the second photo we have a water glass to look at. Not much room. There really isn't enough room for a water glass with a normal angle valve underneath. So I will be modifying the cool little water glass by giving it an integral angle valve built into the bottom. This will save about 1/4" in height which we need. Our last snappy for tonight is of the parts for the bonnet and stem. I want a true bonnet and stem type of valve like our dear departed friend Barry at superscale used to make. One with a bonnet and bonnet nut to hold it down. The bottom row shows from left to right, the stem, the packing nut-#6-48 thread, the bonnet nut #10-56 thread, and the bonnet. The little valve handle is a casting that I have, but it's a bit too small for this valve so a slightly larger master will be made. This is a 5/32" valve. I have quite a collection of taps and dies, especially the finer threads. They come in real handy for things like this. I don't single point any of this little baloney. Get er" done. Tomorrow the valve body, which will be silver soldered together, and then silver soldered to the water glass.
More to come.
Jack
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Water Glass1.jpeg
Water Glass2.jpeg
Water Glass Stem & Bonnte.jpeg
Berkman
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by Berkman »

3/4 scale Niagara next?

As usual looks amazing!
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
Thank you Berkman. I'll have to finish this little Hudson before I can start thinking about a Niagra, although that would be pretty cool. For now I'm just trying to finish the water glasses. The beautiful castings from Jeff required a a few modifications. The puzzle was how to hold them without goobering up the tiny lettering. They needed a little lathe work, and also some milling. So a delrin soft collet was made up. A hole was drilled in some round delrin and the slit was made down the side with a slitting saw. Then the water glass casting was inserted and clamped and centered in the four jaw chuck. The bottom opening was drilled, the casting was opened up, and the cavity for the glass tube and teflon bottom seal was deepened slightly.
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Glass10.jpeg
Glass11.jpeg
Glass12.jpeg
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Now the valve body was silver soldered to the base after tapping 3/8"-40 for the glass retainer nut. The valve body and water glass were both fluxed and silver soldered together. A length of 1/16" stainless welding rod was gripped with a large hemostat and used to hold the valve body in place for soldering.The photos are out of sequence but you get the idea. The bottom snappy shows the mostly finished water glass. The pipe entering the boiler is 5/32" model pipe thread. The drain out the bottom is 1/8" model pipe thread. I'm going to have a go at some 1/8" globe valves. Both 5/32" and 1/8" valves are popular sizes in 3/4" scale. Also to be made are the teflon seal washers and the top nuts. The water glasses will also be back lit. Having fun here.
Jack
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Glass13.jpeg
Glass14.jpeg
Glass15.jpeg
Curtis_F
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by Curtis_F »

Jack,

Your work is a feast for the eyes and fills the soul with inspiration. Thank you for sharing all these updates and photos.

Cheers,
Curtis
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by ccvstmr »

Jack...what a fantastic idea to use a machined piece of Delrin to make a "soft jaw" for holding a delicate piece of work and/or casting.

Would imagine the same idea can be used to hold parts in the mill as well...either in a square piece of Delrin or round piece of Delrin in a 5C collet for a square or hex block.

Thanx for another tip, trick and technique! Carl B.
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
Why thank you very much Curtiss for you most generous compliment. Thank you too, Carl B. These beautiful castings have been a most delightful little puzzle to fiddle with. I want to thank Jeff for sending them to me. I think posting little dodge's like the delrin collet is what this site is about. Everyone brings different skills and perspectives, we should all share them. Today I fiddled around with the water glasses. The Teflon cup washers were made. I learned to make these from my dear departed friend-mentor Everett Lyman. He was an old school machinist and was very sharp. He said that a water glass should never be allowed to touch metal. This can cause them to break. So he showed me these teflon cups. As they wrap around the ends, and sides of the water glass, they keep the glass from touching metal. You can see a couple of them, one fitted to the end of the glass tube, the other just laying there by the pencil. I have made a few water glasses over the years and have always used these cups. Just machine them up as needed. Also the glass tube was cut and the ends finished nice and smooth. Also the brass top nut that holds the whole mess together was made. This has a 3/8"-40 thread where it screws into the main body of the water glass. The octagon bit is 1/4", and the top center is threaded 5/32" MTP. Next I will be needing some top valves for the water gasses. These will be 5/32" angle-union valves to connect to the top of the boiler. I will probably make a mold for these valves as more will be needed.
Having Fun Here
Jack
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Glass20.jpeg
Glass21.jpeg
Last edited by JBodenmann on Mon Feb 28, 2022 4:22 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
While we are looking at water glasses, here are some snappies of a 1-1/2" scale water glass. This one has a 1/2" diameter tube with heavy glass shields and teflon cup washers. When using teflon cup washers in a situation like this the draw bolts should be done up just slightly more than finger tight as the teflon expands when heated. The ends of the glass tube should also be nicely dressed and square. This can be done with a sheet of wet or dry on a flat surface with some water. Upon final assembly acorn nuts were used.
Jack
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Glass30.jpg
Glass31.jpg
Glass32.jpg
apm
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by apm »

Hi Jack,

What do you use to cut your gauge glass? Mcmaster sells a chain gizmo with wheels on it that I could never get to cut right especially on larger diameter glass like 1/2". I struggled with that for a long time then one day when doing a kitchen remodel it dawned on me that maybe the tile cutter could do a good job and it worked great! I am curious what you do? Otherwise if it helps anyone hopefully you can all enjoy the tip.
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
I usually cut glass tube by scoring the tube all the way around with an old three corner needle file. Then tap the score on a piece of wood. Borosilicate glass can be difficult. I will usually cut the tube about 1/32" long. Then I will very gently kiss it on the sanding disc. Be careful not to heat up the glass much. If it's too hot to hold in your fingers, it's too hot. This is death for a sanding disc :evil: . Start out with #80 grit. If you get chips around the edges you are being too aggressive. Then it can be finished up with some #180 wet or dry on a flat surface with water. Last thing is to very slightly chamfer the edges so it doesn't gouge the Teflon cup-washer. The cup washer should slide over the end of the glass with slight interference. No goop or any type of sealant is needed.
Happy Model Building
Jack the Old Bozo
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Help My Friends
Been working on molds for a while and haven't touched the Hudson, so here is a photo just for fun.
Jack
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