DRO advice.
DRO advice.
Hi guys,I'm looking for an inexpensive DRO for my equally inexpensive Chinese round column mill.The hand dials are way off, due to backlash inherent in the machine. Since it has no knee ,I'm thinking I don't want the third (Z axes) scale. They seem to come in sets. I'd want just the X and Y axes two piece set, and a front mount Z axes quill scale. I am thinking right aren't I ? do they have those that would pug into the screen?
Re: DRO advice.
The bar type dro scales with an integrated display that are similar to digital calipers don't seem to last too well as far as there durability when exposed to chips and cutting oil. Plus the actual accuracy isn't that great compared to a more standard dro with glass or magnetic scales and reader heads with a separate X,Y display. And to me having at least the built in bolt pitch circle option is well worth stepping up to a more standard dro. Maybe with your mill the feed screw nuts aren't adjustable, but if they are and your back lash is excessive it's time to do some adjusting. If you do buy the more conventional type of dro just remember your scale lengths have to be longer than your table travels to allow for the length of the reader heads while there measuring along the full length of the scales.
Re: DRO advice.
My round column mill has adjustable feed screw nuts.
I have a 2 axis DRO and a bar type digital readout on the quill, so far no problems.
My X axis scale was too long so I cut it to length.
I have a 2 axis DRO and a bar type digital readout on the quill, so far no problems.
My X axis scale was too long so I cut it to length.
Re: DRO advice.
I'm not saying the backlash is excessive (for the machine), just that its there.
How long do I need the scales to be, or how much "longer" than travel? (4 inches, say) ?
My table is 28" by 9 1/2" not really relevant, except to compare to yours.
x travel is 20", Y is 7", Z is 6" on mine.
I expect yours is the same or very close.
Also the dials on the hand wheels have the little finger turn areas but not one of them turns
Do those lock somehow or do I have rust build up behind them and they're frozen?
I have no manual for operation.
you couldn't post photos of your scales in place could you? that may be asking a lot.
How long do I need the scales to be, or how much "longer" than travel? (4 inches, say) ?
My table is 28" by 9 1/2" not really relevant, except to compare to yours.
x travel is 20", Y is 7", Z is 6" on mine.
I expect yours is the same or very close.
Also the dials on the hand wheels have the little finger turn areas but not one of them turns
Do those lock somehow or do I have rust build up behind them and they're frozen?
I have no manual for operation.
you couldn't post photos of your scales in place could you? that may be asking a lot.
Re: DRO advice.
Lewayne:
It would help us answer your questions if we knew what mill make and model you have, including posting some pictures.
And you can do a search here for previous postings on milling machine DROs, as there are several. Possibly many.
RussN
It would help us answer your questions if we knew what mill make and model you have, including posting some pictures.
And you can do a search here for previous postings on milling machine DROs, as there are several. Possibly many.
RussN
Re: DRO advice.
The extra length needed is a factor of how long the reader head is and exactly where the sensor pick up is in the head. A reputable dealer should be able to advise how much longer the scales need to be verses the table travels you have.
Re: DRO advice.
in your last picture of the hand crank do those scales turn freely to 0 them? Mine looks just like yours but only turns with the hand crank.
And yes that did help , thanks a lot.
Re: DRO advice.
I see you put yours on the front. Dont you miss the stops? Or does that stuff on the front just not matter much?
Re: DRO advice.
Thanks for the photos. Very helpful.
I had a similar mill except for a step-pully speed adjust drive on top and the "nod" arm.
The dials at the hand cranks could be loosened and zeroed with an allen hex wrench to turn the setscrews. They were hidden in very small holes in the dials.
And I never used the front stops in all the years I had that mill. I DID practice the "Harold" method of using the dials for all motions.
And I managed to do some careful, slow, serious machining, despite the lack of rigidity. I machined the stainless steel drive rods and valve gear for my Mikado.
Pics attached.
Rather than install a DRO on that mill, I finally was able to replace it with a larger machine more suitable for installing the DRO.
Not possible for everyone.
RussN
I had a similar mill except for a step-pully speed adjust drive on top and the "nod" arm.
The dials at the hand cranks could be loosened and zeroed with an allen hex wrench to turn the setscrews. They were hidden in very small holes in the dials.
And I never used the front stops in all the years I had that mill. I DID practice the "Harold" method of using the dials for all motions.
And I managed to do some careful, slow, serious machining, despite the lack of rigidity. I machined the stainless steel drive rods and valve gear for my Mikado.
Pics attached.
Rather than install a DRO on that mill, I finally was able to replace it with a larger machine more suitable for installing the DRO.
Not possible for everyone.
RussN
Re: DRO advice.
Mounting X scale on rear robs you about 1 inch of movement on the Y, not an option in my case.
Yes I miss the stops even though rarely used, never used the power feed switch so no great loss.
My dials turn fairly freely but hopefully never need them again, progressed from the dark ages to a DRO!
Yes I miss the stops even though rarely used, never used the power feed switch so no great loss.
My dials turn fairly freely but hopefully never need them again, progressed from the dark ages to a DRO!