New member, looking for some guidance.
- Bill Shields
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Re: New member, looking for some guidance.
Vibration is generally not caused by a leveling problem...but could be caused by a 'loose foot' that you have attended to by working on the levelling.
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: New member, looking for some guidance.
I think it is most important to level the lathe bed on the bench top.
That allows removal os any twists that develop on uneven mounting surfaces.
Of course, getting the bench to sit level on the floor is the first step.
RussN
That allows removal os any twists that develop on uneven mounting surfaces.
Of course, getting the bench to sit level on the floor is the first step.
RussN
Re: New member, looking for some guidance.
Mike, sent you a PM.
3/4" Juliet II 0-4-0
3/4" Purinton Mogul "Pogo"
3/4" Hall Class 10 wheeler
3/4" Evans Caribou/Buffalo 2-8-0
3/4" Sweet Violet 0-4-0
3/4" Hunslet 4-6-0
3/4" Kozo A3. Delayed construction project
1 1/2" A5 Camelback 0-4-0
3/4" Purinton Mogul "Pogo"
3/4" Hall Class 10 wheeler
3/4" Evans Caribou/Buffalo 2-8-0
3/4" Sweet Violet 0-4-0
3/4" Hunslet 4-6-0
3/4" Kozo A3. Delayed construction project
1 1/2" A5 Camelback 0-4-0
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Re: New member, looking for some guidance.
One comment about gear lube. Probably a very good idea to stay away from grease or any of the highly sticky, long lasting chain lubes used in other applications. Reason is, these older machines were designed for spindle oil to wash away chips and swarf. The highly sticky lubricants will grab this mass of small debris and gum up your gearing - causing rapid wear and never ending problems keeping the gears clean.
For example, My 1919 Dalton 7” lathe uses oil drip cups that constantly dribbles a tiny stream of oil down through the gears constantly while running. The gears are perfectly clean and in top shape after 100 years of use.
BTW, you can use an aluminum baking sheet, the kind with turned up edges, under the lathe to catch the chips and oil. Works great.
Glenn
For example, My 1919 Dalton 7” lathe uses oil drip cups that constantly dribbles a tiny stream of oil down through the gears constantly while running. The gears are perfectly clean and in top shape after 100 years of use.
BTW, you can use an aluminum baking sheet, the kind with turned up edges, under the lathe to catch the chips and oil. Works great.
Glenn
Moderator - Grand Scale Forum
Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge
Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge
Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
Re: New member, looking for some guidance.
Glenn, good idea about the baking pan, thanks. I haven't even run this machine for longer than a minute or two yet. It took me a lot of effort to remove the years of hard, dried, baked-on, grease that collected in the base of each gear tooth. This is primarily why I wanted to stick with oil for a while, but I didn't really consider the grease possibly trapping debris. I am still on the fence about this, but I know it wouldn't be as hard to clean them again.Glenn Brooks wrote: ↑Wed Aug 04, 2021 11:28 am One comment about gear lube. Probably a very good idea to stay away from grease or any of the highly sticky, long lasting chain lubes used in other applications. Reason is, these older machines were designed for spindle oil to wash away chips and swarf. The highly sticky lubricants will grab this mass of small debris and gum up your gearing - causing rapid wear and never ending problems keeping the gears clean.
For example, My 1919 Dalton 7” lathe uses oil drip cups that constantly dribbles a tiny stream of oil down through the gears constantly while running. The gears are perfectly clean and in top shape after 100 years of use.
BTW, you can use an aluminum baking sheet, the kind with turned up edges, under the lathe to catch the chips and oil. Works great.
Glenn
Thanks for the replies, Mike -
12" Atlas Commercial (3990) 12" Back Geared, Undermount, Screw Cutting Lathe with Quick Change Gear Box (6802), Universal Compound X-Y Vise (1614), Taper (6822), Milling (500A) and Grinding Attachments (10-450)
Re: New member, looking for some guidance.
miken: regarding the boring bar holder. I looked in the Atlas Lathe Accessories booklet that my dad saved and found this:
--earlgo
Whether he lost it or preferred to order the round type is too late to find out. But it looks like you are missing the round part with the slots that fits under your remaining holder parts. A quick look on ebay didn't show any. I'm guessing that the ring has 3 same sized slots to hold the grooved toolholder you have, but cut at 3 different depths to compensate for three different boring bar center distances that would be related to their diameters.--earlgo
Before you do anything, you must do something else first. - Washington's principle.
Re: New member, looking for some guidance.
Those round multi hole diameter boring bar tool holders were made by Armstrong and I remember seeing them in an older Enco tool catalog. Fairly expensive for what they were at the time. There a easy method of holding different boring bar diameters, but obviously slower and less handy than a qctp set up.
Grease on change gears works, but I 100% agree with Glenn. It retains any wear or contamination particles. So it takes more maintenance to first solvent clean and then reapply more just to keep the lube clean every few months. Oil tends to force any metal particles out and away from the working surfaces. Most including myself probably use far more oil than required on those change gears. Compared to even a motorcycle transmission, the actual loads on the gearing are really light on any home shop sized lathe. I've seen a few mentions that a drop or two on each gear and each time the lathe is used is more than enough on Myford lathes. You also wouldn't want to be over oiling those back gears to keep oil off the drive belt. If oil is being thrown or dripping off the gears in large amounts were probably using too much. Yes most quick change gear boxes and geared head stocks use an oil bath sump type system, it's just an easy to add item in the casting mold, removes the daily oiling and keeps the mess contained.
Grease on change gears works, but I 100% agree with Glenn. It retains any wear or contamination particles. So it takes more maintenance to first solvent clean and then reapply more just to keep the lube clean every few months. Oil tends to force any metal particles out and away from the working surfaces. Most including myself probably use far more oil than required on those change gears. Compared to even a motorcycle transmission, the actual loads on the gearing are really light on any home shop sized lathe. I've seen a few mentions that a drop or two on each gear and each time the lathe is used is more than enough on Myford lathes. You also wouldn't want to be over oiling those back gears to keep oil off the drive belt. If oil is being thrown or dripping off the gears in large amounts were probably using too much. Yes most quick change gear boxes and geared head stocks use an oil bath sump type system, it's just an easy to add item in the casting mold, removes the daily oiling and keeps the mess contained.
Re: New member, looking for some guidance.
earlgo, it is possible that boring bar holder does not belong with my Atlas. It's still a bit different than what is shown. The man had a lot of tools that look retrofitted. I even have a miniature compound slide/tool holder that clearly does not go on the Atlas. He was a gunsmith, and made a lot of small parts, so I was told.earlgo wrote: ↑Wed Aug 04, 2021 2:42 pm miken: regarding the boring bar holder. I looked in the Atlas Lathe Accessories booklet that my dad saved and found this:Boring Bar Holder #990.jpg Whether he lost it or preferred to order the round type is too late to find out. But it looks like you are missing the round part with the slots that fits under your remaining holder parts. A quick look on ebay didn't show any. I'm guessing that the ring has 3 same sized slots to hold the grooved toolholder you have, but cut at 3 different depths to compensate for three different boring bar center distances that would be related to their diameters.
--earlgo
Thanks, Mike -
12" Atlas Commercial (3990) 12" Back Geared, Undermount, Screw Cutting Lathe with Quick Change Gear Box (6802), Universal Compound X-Y Vise (1614), Taper (6822), Milling (500A) and Grinding Attachments (10-450)
Re: New member, looking for some guidance.
Thanks Pete, before I can really use it I need to figure out the Timken wicks to regulate the oil feed. Right now any oil I put in the cups immediately drains out. The old wicks are in there, but clearly not doing their job anymore.pete wrote: ↑Wed Aug 04, 2021 4:57 pm . . . I've seen a few mentions that a drop or two on each gear and each time the lathe is used is more than enough on Myford lathes. You also wouldn't want to be over oiling those back gears to keep oil off the drive belt. If oil is being thrown or dripping off the gears in large amounts were probably using too much.
Mike -
12" Atlas Commercial (3990) 12" Back Geared, Undermount, Screw Cutting Lathe with Quick Change Gear Box (6802), Universal Compound X-Y Vise (1614), Taper (6822), Milling (500A) and Grinding Attachments (10-450)
Re: New member, looking for some guidance.
Bob, thanks a lot for letting me borrow your level, and the Vactra2 oil. You have an amazing shop. I also really appreciate the great advice and threading lesson. Let me know if you make something as I would love to watch and learn. Talk soon.
Thanks again, Mike
12" Atlas Commercial (3990) 12" Back Geared, Undermount, Screw Cutting Lathe with Quick Change Gear Box (6802), Universal Compound X-Y Vise (1614), Taper (6822), Milling (500A) and Grinding Attachments (10-450)
Re: New member, looking for some guidance.
Was pretty cool meeting someone from the forum. And we are practically neighbors. Glad to be of help. Your off to a good start.
3/4" Juliet II 0-4-0
3/4" Purinton Mogul "Pogo"
3/4" Hall Class 10 wheeler
3/4" Evans Caribou/Buffalo 2-8-0
3/4" Sweet Violet 0-4-0
3/4" Hunslet 4-6-0
3/4" Kozo A3. Delayed construction project
1 1/2" A5 Camelback 0-4-0
3/4" Purinton Mogul "Pogo"
3/4" Hall Class 10 wheeler
3/4" Evans Caribou/Buffalo 2-8-0
3/4" Sweet Violet 0-4-0
3/4" Hunslet 4-6-0
3/4" Kozo A3. Delayed construction project
1 1/2" A5 Camelback 0-4-0