Moriya Stirling Engine Build

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rmac
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Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build

Post by rmac » Sat Apr 17, 2021 9:42 pm

NP317 wrote:
Wed Apr 14, 2021 9:26 am
Results are not highly evident, due to the small size of the engine and its lower operating rpm moving air.
By "results" here, I guess you're talking about the effect of the balancing exercise?

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NP317
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Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build

Post by NP317 » Sat Apr 17, 2021 10:18 pm

To secure the 1/16" wrist pin (mild steel) I lightly peened both ends against a solid surface to slightly upset the end diameter.
The pin stays in place. Removal is a destructive process. Not a problem.
Nice looking rods!
RussN

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rmac
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Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build

Post by rmac » Sun Apr 18, 2021 1:32 am

NP317 wrote:
Sat Apr 17, 2021 10:18 pm
To secure the 1/16" wrist pin (mild steel) I lightly peened both ends against a solid surface to slightly upset the end diameter.
I'm not quite following. Did you make the pins extra long so that you could smoosh the ends after assembly? Or did you make them to match the fork width, distort them prior to assembly, and then just force one end of the pin through rod and into the far side of the fork?

-- Russell Mac

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NP317
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Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build

Post by NP317 » Sun Apr 18, 2021 10:55 am

rmac wrote:
Sun Apr 18, 2021 1:32 am
NP317 wrote:
Sat Apr 17, 2021 10:18 pm
To secure the 1/16" wrist pin (mild steel) I lightly peened both ends against a solid surface to slightly upset the end diameter.
I'm not quite following. Did you make the pins extra long so that you could smoosh the ends after assembly? Or did you make them to match the fork width, distort them prior to assembly, and then just force one end of the pin through rod and into the far side of the fork?

-- Russell Mac
I made the wrist pin so it is longer than the fork width by at least 1/16" out each side.
With both ends slightly upset they stay in position without binding.
And when you need to remove them (many years later...), one enlarged end can easily be snipped off so the deburred pin can then be pushed out the other side.

Of course, you can always turn a miniature wrist pin with a tiny nut on one end. Just for the fun of it.
Elegant for sure.
RussN

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rmac
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Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build

Post by rmac » Sun Apr 18, 2021 12:14 pm

NP317 wrote:
Sun Apr 18, 2021 10:55 am
I made the wrist pin so it is longer than the fork width by at least 1/16" out each side.
With both ends slightly upset they stay in position without binding.
Perfect! Thanks for the clarification.

A tiny pin held in place by a tiny nut does sound interesting. Maybe after the engines are actually running.

I don't think I've mentioned it here before, but the first thing I want to do if I can get a working engine is see if it will run with sunlight concentrated by a parabolic reflector instead of fire. (We have more sunlight than wood stoves here in Phoenix. :) ) I could have saved myself a lot of trouble by buying this one: https://www.pmmodelengines.com/shop/sol ... -engine-4/, but of course there's no fun in that. Anyway, that's why I was wondering if the Moriya engine has to be vertical to run. Obviously it will need to be oriented at some goofy angle to work with the reflector.

-- Russell Mac

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NP317
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Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build

Post by NP317 » Sun Apr 18, 2021 1:02 pm

I suspect Moriya would run at a non-vertical angle, but expect to see increased wear in friction-seal parts.
I have not tried doing that. My wood-burning stove is bolted to the floor...
RussN

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mcostello
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Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build

Post by mcostello » Sun Apr 18, 2021 8:05 pm

If You want to be the envy of Your machinist friends, You could machine grooves in the pistons and use circlips to hold the wrist pins in. Not "c" clips, the round wire ones.

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rmac
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Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build

Post by rmac » Mon Apr 19, 2021 8:04 pm

Progress Report #14:

Power conn rods and crankpins done. I deviated from the drawings again a little bit with the crankpins by threading on a little plastic bushing to avoid another aluminum-on-steel bearing. Actually the article that accompanies the plans hint at this idea, so maybe it's not completely nuts.

I think there are now only three or more more parts to make. Getting close.

-- Russell Mac

power_conn_rods_and_crank_pins.jpg

Kay_B
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Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build

Post by Kay_B » Tue Apr 20, 2021 4:16 am

rmac wrote:
Mon Apr 19, 2021 8:04 pm
Progress Report #14:

Power conn rods and crankpins done. I deviated from the drawings again a little bit with the crankpins by threading on a little plastic bushing to avoid another aluminum-on-steel bearing. Actually the article that accompanies the plans hint at this idea, so maybe it's not completely nuts.

I think there are now only three or more more parts to make. Getting close.

-- Russell Mac


power_conn_rods_and_crank_pins.jpg
It looks good, the work is neat. Do you have a complete drawing of the device in order to understand how many more spare parts you need and what shape they should be?

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rmac
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Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build

Post by rmac » Tue Apr 20, 2021 9:54 am

Kay_B wrote:
Tue Apr 20, 2021 4:16 am
It looks good, the work is neat. Do you have a complete drawing of the device in order to understand how many more spare parts you need and what shape they should be?
Thank you, Kay_B. Yes, I'm working from a complete set of plans. There's a link to them in one of the earlier posts in this thread.

-- Russell Mac

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NP317
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Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build

Post by NP317 » Tue Apr 20, 2021 10:38 am

I like your use of the plastic bushing for the power conn rod.
That will likely be an improvement I will make to my well-used Moriya fan.
A simple job to do.
RussN

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rmac
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Re: Moriya Stirling Engine Build

Post by rmac » Tue Apr 20, 2021 10:52 am

I guess depending on the plastic you use, I think you'll need a jam nut or else some thread locker (Yay! More Loctite!) to keep the crankpin from coming unscrewed. I wasn't able to crank down against my HDPE bushing without crushing it.

-- Russell Mac

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