Smithy CB 1220-XL
Moderator: Harold_V
Smithy CB 1220-XL
Picked up this little 3-1 from a buddy of mine. Came with a 3 and 4 jaw chuck and some odds and ends. It hadn't been used much, but had been in storage for a while, so it has a little light rust. Need to build a bench for it then hope to do some little stuff. Wood turning tools and maybe some small engines. Any advice would be appreciated…other than sell if for scrap metal.
Re: Smithy CB 1220-XL
Judging from the picture, the machine dodged a bullet, as the rust appears to be on non-functioning surfaces. For that you can be grateful. I expect that a little superficial cleaning and it's ready to go to work.
Harold
Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Re: Smithy CB 1220-XL
Nate
Nice find.
That looks like it will clean up pretty well.
If you need the manual for it, PM me your
regular email address, and I will send it to
you via attachment.
Ken.
Nice find.
That looks like it will clean up pretty well.
If you need the manual for it, PM me your
regular email address, and I will send it to
you via attachment.
Ken.
One must remember.
The best learning experiences come
from working with the older Masters.
Ken.
The best learning experiences come
from working with the older Masters.
Ken.
Re: Smithy CB 1220-XL
Cleaned the rust off the lathe and the good news is, no surface damage. The compound is a bit of a POS, need to tighten up the screw and get a little Aloris tool holder. The lead screw has about .010 of slop in it, so need to shim it. The other thing I could use some advice on is the tailstock. The Jacobs chuck is stuck in the quill. Any recommendations?
Re: Smithy CB 1220-XL
Hello Nate,
You are doing a great job spiffing it up.
If it were me I would make a couple of slotted
steel wedges, and gently tap one wedge in
from each side just behind the chuck, and when
you have them snug, take a heavy C-Clamp, and
start to squeeze the two wedges together, lots of
penetrating oil, tap and squeeze and so on.
penetrating oil, (repeat) (let sit) (repeat) (let sit)
Edit: change from aluminum to steel wedges.
Ken.
You are doing a great job spiffing it up.
If it were me I would make a couple of slotted
steel wedges, and gently tap one wedge in
from each side just behind the chuck, and when
you have them snug, take a heavy C-Clamp, and
start to squeeze the two wedges together, lots of
penetrating oil, tap and squeeze and so on.
penetrating oil, (repeat) (let sit) (repeat) (let sit)
Edit: change from aluminum to steel wedges.
Ken.
One must remember.
The best learning experiences come
from working with the older Masters.
Ken.
The best learning experiences come
from working with the older Masters.
Ken.
Re: Smithy CB 1220-XL
I tried something similar, Ken it just popped the chuck off. I think I'm going to have to disassemble the quill and tap it out from the back.
Re: Smithy CB 1220-XL
It may be possible for an object (short piece of aluminum) to be inserted in the quill, once removed, which will then permit the screw to bump the shank enough to be dislodged. I'd suggest you avoid any hammer work unless you have no alternative.
I'd not have much use for a tailstock that won't dislodge a shank via the hand wheel. Once you get the old shank out, take a look to see if there's a way you can add a piece to the end of the screw to act as a bumper. Something as simple as a hex head cap screw and lock nut may be all it takes. You'd have to drill and tap the screw. It need not be very large---I expect a hardened ¼" screw would be adequate.
Harold
I'd not have much use for a tailstock that won't dislodge a shank via the hand wheel. Once you get the old shank out, take a look to see if there's a way you can add a piece to the end of the screw to act as a bumper. Something as simple as a hex head cap screw and lock nut may be all it takes. You'd have to drill and tap the screw. It need not be very large---I expect a hardened ¼" screw would be adequate.
Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Re: Smithy CB 1220-XL
Thanks Harold, I'll keep you posted. Great advice, my wood lathes "self extract" the tail centers.
Re: Smithy CB 1220-XL
Disassembled the tailstock quill and go the Jacobs chuck out, now need to tighten up the compound and lead screw.
Re: Smithy CB 1220-XL
Ahah! Another sucker...er...1220 owner!
First thing, either get a Morse 3 extension for the tailstock or mod the tailstock for more travel. 2 inches to get over that big honkin' table just don't cut it.
If you have a good running belt on the mill head, would you mind sharing the number on it?
First thing, either get a Morse 3 extension for the tailstock or mod the tailstock for more travel. 2 inches to get over that big honkin' table just don't cut it.
If you have a good running belt on the mill head, would you mind sharing the number on it?
Re: Smithy CB 1220-XL
Thanks for the support Grouch I bought it from a buddy of mine who sold it cheap; fully knowing it would be limited in capability. Not planning on doing any heavy machining, just building some wood turning hollowing tools.
The belt that's on there looks like the stock belt, but wondering if a link belt would work better.
The belt that's on there looks like the stock belt, but wondering if a link belt would work better.
Re: Smithy CB 1220-XL
I haven't found link belts narrow enough.
I think my mill belt is also original. It's very supple but has bulges. I haven't been able to find a direct replacement and mine has no numbers.
The deep narrow pulleys plus the small amount of adjustment via the tensioner make most belts, like 3vx and 3Lx, close but no cigar. I'm sure it's Metric but those are special order and even the belt house I deal with says it's complicated to work out. He wants me to leave the belt for a week and he'll work on it as he has little incentive to put a bunch of effort for 1 unpopular belt. Every time I call Smithy I get the guy that don't know too much.
I think my mill belt is also original. It's very supple but has bulges. I haven't been able to find a direct replacement and mine has no numbers.
The deep narrow pulleys plus the small amount of adjustment via the tensioner make most belts, like 3vx and 3Lx, close but no cigar. I'm sure it's Metric but those are special order and even the belt house I deal with says it's complicated to work out. He wants me to leave the belt for a week and he'll work on it as he has little incentive to put a bunch of effort for 1 unpopular belt. Every time I call Smithy I get the guy that don't know too much.