soldering a scope base to barrel?

[heisler0]

I am starting to prepare for my next build and thinking about a single shot. A scope base would need to be solder to the barrel similar to the rug#1 is there any secerts or things to watch for when heating the barrel to solder?

[GeorgeGaskill]

Are you planning to solder both ends of the mount, use separate mounts for front and back, or what? I would be concerned about bending the barrel if you use a long one piece mount. But perhaps the solder would creep since it is much weaker than steel.

[heisler0]

My first thought is one piece long enough for a solid base 3.5" to 4" long.

[PeteH]

How about using a low-temp solder like TIX ? That stuff melts around 275 F. Not as strong as silver solder -- or even the low-temp silver/tin solders - the ad copy says 4300 lbs/sq. in.

[ken572]

heisler,

Check this out

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=709/ ... ade-SOLDER

Ken

[PeteH]

Yup, that's the low-temp tin/silver stuff. You might be able to find it in a hobby-supplies store, in a small package. Somewhat like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Stevens-Internati ... =pd_cp_e_0

[hammermill]

here is a product i have used advantage is it takes blueing. brownells also carrys it

http://www.herchem.com/specs/swif95.pdf

that said i dont see a stregenth anywhere beyond 50 precent stronger that 50/50.
clean and coat parts then clamp together . heat gently with propane.

a interest note, a differient process in big bores and shotguns was to heat steel bars to a high temp and slide into the bore to tranfer heat into a area being worked. you usually kept one in the bore and 2 in the furance. this also served to keep the heat localized. a real plus when working on doubles and drillings.

[heisler0]

Thanks for all the input sounds there a couple options here. I was also wondering if a low temp silver solder like sta-brite would work? either ways sounds like a couple different options here.

[GlennW]

A structural adhesive would not discolor or distort anything.

The down side is that you would probably ruin the barrel if you ever needed to remove it.

[PeteH]

I've used Sta-Brite (or the equivalent) to solder a brass front sight on a shotgun barrel. Worked fine - it's been there for about 25 years. However the solder line will never blue (not a big deal, since it's very narrow and blends in with the brass anyway) and the flux will eat the blueing off if it gets on the adjacent barrel.

Glenn's idea about using a structural adhesive is very interesting. There's a Loctite product called "Black Max" that is reputed to be incredibly strong and shock-resistant, used for all sorts of sudden-load applications. (Have a look at the "Applications" tab on the attached webpage.)

IIRC it's a neoprene-modified cyanoacrylate contact adhesive, which sets in about 90 seconds. The copy (thanks to Amazon) claims "Tensile Shear: 3,750" (no units!) -- but "tensile" is one thing and "shear" is another, so maybe a bit more research is needed.

It's expensive -- $25 an ounce or so, and it doesn't store well at all. Amazon has it, so does McMaster. It's a hazmat product, so you may get nicked an extra shipping charge.

http://www.henkelna.com/cps/rde/xchg/he ... =technical