Cannon Barrel

[GeorgeGaskill]

The originals of that 1779 pattern were cast iron, not bronze. By that time, cast iron had replaced bronze barrels in naval service because of cost. Here is a short video image from the
2009 Montana Cannon Shoot showing that gun being fired.

By the way, Barney's Cannons has been called South Bend Replicas for a long time. Barney (the founder) died last year I think.

[Harold_V]

The originals of that 1779 pattern were cast iron, not bronze. By that time, cast iron had replaced bronze barrels in naval service because of cost. Here is a short video image from the
2009 Montana Cannon Shoot showing that gun being fired.

By the way, Barney's Cannons has been called South Bend Replicas for a long time. Barney (the founder) died last year I think.

You know, a guy could use ductile iron for barrels and benefit greatly, assuming they were cast. It can rival mild steel in tensile. Much better than gray iron, and casts with equal ease.
Thanks for the link, George. That's a beautiful cannon!

Harold

[steamin10]

Ya, many shops prefer to cast ductile as it gives a better cast. As soon as they see a cannon barrel, its over. Nobody wants the liability. Nearly all the modern Iron demonstrator cannon are fitted out with a Stainless steel liner. A full steel barrel, has no need, being much more shatter and crack resistant. The dynamics of shooting such things, show that a cast barrel will usually blow apart, just beyond the trunion position. Steel, and brass/bronze barrels tend to split along the bore, as they are tougher, and tear rather than crack. (Generalised statements, are no guarentee, for safty, perfomance, or even an expectation of continuity. Just an observation of what has gone before in similar circumstances. Modern methods of production of similar shapes of antique weapons, do not eliminate Murphy's law. So err in caution always.)

My BB mortar would be illegal at any shoots I know of, because they require the breech block to be pinned to the barrel with 4 1/2 inch pins welded in. Considering the overlap, and 100% fill weld, this seems a bit silly for my rig, given the 1/4 inch windage in the tube. It is nearly impossible to overload the shot with black powder, of any sort. Once the powder in the shot cup lifts the ball, the pressure immediately drops off into the dead space below the ball, and begins venting around the ball in the tube. still a healthy push, but not nearly the shock load that a tight tube would generate. So this is supposed to be a short range demonstrator, right? I dont wanna blow a ball out of sight, or a half mile downrange. Just drop it on a styrofoam 'fort', or similar contrivance for the visual effect. Its no good if'n ya caint sees it!

[clive]

Just as an update, I have just ordered my Ally/Bronze which has a tensile strength of 60,000 pounds. I'm still reeling from the bill, but at least I've committed myself to it, they have a once a week delivery to where I live. I was able to see a few cannon that a guy has in a private museum, he shoots them, spectacular to put it mildly.
He also has one made by a enthusiast who I hope to be able to pick his brain before deciding on the final bore size and charge.
Clive

[hammermill]

clive are you able to work the lathe single handed

good to hear this is started off.

[clive]

clive are you able to work the lathe single handed

good to hear this is started off.

I wasn't planning on blowing myself up if I can help it. I hopefully will take photos at various stages - as long as I remember.
Clive

[hammermill]

sorry the joke was related to cost of raw material

[clive]

sorry the joke was related to cost of raw material

Ahh, a bit slow on the uptake today, I was going to make one for my son and one for my son-in-law too but they'll have to wait.
Clive

[clive]

An update, I am using a stainless sleeve, cold drawn stainless hydraulic tube. This is 16mm OD with a 2mm wall so that will give me a 12mm bore which should be fine. The tube should get here this week.

[hammermill]

what is the plan then to bore the brass and then acura glass the the liner in ????

[clive]

I am going to use Loctite at this stage, unless there is a better product out there. I have been talking to an old guy who has built 19 cannons over the years and he always used Loctite. If there is something better I would like to know about it.
Clive

[hammermill]

if it machines really close then i see no problem with lock tite. i brought accur glas only because it has been the traditional compund for barrel liners after sweating (soldering).
in todays world the right locktite may be a good choice.