Question of feasibility...

[PeteH]

How difficult is it likely to be to fabricate a bolt-stop for a C96 Mauser ? (Not the "locking block".)
It's an odd-shaped piece, looks like it may originally have been forged, then finish-machined.

And what sort of alloy and heat-treatment would be advisable ?

Thanks...

[GeorgeGaskill]

It would be a good idea to post a picture or drawing of the part so people know exactly what you are talking about.

[PeteH]

Will do. Probably not this very instant - if I can't find a drawing online I'll have to pull the thing apart to photograph the stop.

Thanks...

EDIT: OK, thanks to "sunblest.net" I have this image. It's not a GREAT image, but gives some info.

It's the part numbered "4".

[hammermill]

it would have the apearance of being able to be made with either a mill or a set of hand files( dutch planer)

it apears to be worth about 45.00 as a part.

[GeorgeGaskill]

It doesn't look all that complicated but making a functional one would require a dimensioned drawing or a part to copy. And it would still be guessing what alloy to use and how to heat treat it.

[Harold_V]

My less than educated guess would suggest 4140, heat treated around 50Rc.

(Pay particular attention to the word guess)

Harold

[PeteH]

Thanks to all.

Hammermill, you are just about dead on the money (literally). $50 plus shipping is the going rate. And if I can be sure their parts are up to spec, I'd spend that in a minute to save me the hassle of making something like that. I'm waiting for feedback from other sources.

(BTW, we used to call it a "Polish Milling Machine" - mainly because there were a lot of Poles and Slovaks in the Otis works.)

George, I'd probably work from the original part. They don't wear much, but they tend to crack in time. "Educated guess" as to which parts to leave a bit oversized for hand-fitting.

Harold, I was thinking 4140 too. I have no idea what the hardness should be, though; maybe I'd check the one out of my gun. (Have to go back to my former job for that, since I don't have a hardness tester.) 50RC certainly would be safe... it's always better to have something stretch rather than fail outright. (Thinking of late-WW2 Mauser 98 receivers.)