1st Time Bluing

[Hal K]

Have several small pieces of finely finished hot roll steel that would like to protect via bluing as in “gun bluing”.

Have never tried it before and, know nothing about the chemicals, or kits of chemicals and supplys that may be needed.

Total surface to be covered is approx. 60 sq. inches.

The local Cabelas store stocks two items made by Brownells:
“44/40 Instant Gun Blue” and
“OXPHO-Blue”

They also sell a “Blue Wonder Gun Bluing Kit”.

Respectfully request any helpful hints, suggestions, and instructions on what products to buy and how to proceed.

Two of the steel pieces have a “slip fit” that I do not want to disturb by adding to their dimensions. Will the bluing process add any appreciable amount to their sizes?

Is it a “forgiving” task that can be undone should an intolerable mess result.? TIA Hal K

[Metalshaper]

Hal,

either of the Brownell's products are very good and EASY to use!! The 44/40 is not as wear resistant as the Oxpho is--in my experience/opinion..



This gun was blued using oxpho after a soft etch was achieved in a bead blast cabinet. The parts were handled with protective gloves, etched and wiped clear using a soft cloth and acetone ( although probably not needed just made me feel better!) then a coat of oxpho was wiped on using a piece of 4-0 steel wool that had been previously acetone rinsed to get the oil out of it.. For me, using the steel wool to apply the oxpho, helps to acheive a better finished appearance!

Hope this helps??

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

[Hal K]

Jonathan, Thank you for your unexpectedly fast and complete response. Your picture of the beautifully finished rifle is the "iceing on the cake". I'm heading out to buy the OXPHO after printing out your reply so I can use your much needed instructions as a step-by-step guide. Hal K

[Metalshaper]

Hal,

Glad I could be of some help!

Read the directions that come with it. Make sure the parts are "CLEAN" ( although Oxpho is supposedly capable of bluing through oil I believe ) and then you should be on your way!!

doesn't hurt to try a practice piece or two.< if possible? >. just to make sure you have the steps down. Wish I could take credit for the steel wool idea, but I picked that up from somewhere?? maybe even on this forum

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

[Steve S]

The steel wool can also be used to take down the sheen of bluing on metal , but also the finish of gunstocks . Yes , some people think their guns are too shiny ... but the customer is always wright .

Steve S

[steamin10]

Most often the metal is etched in some way, abrasive, acid, casutic material to open the surface grain structure enough to allow some grip for the blueing. Any oil acts as a resist, and I had on of my hand assembled guns show the fingerprints of my son who handled the parts between cleaning and blueing. (DOH!) it was a redo, to do, my voodoo again.

[Rolland]

I had posted this on another forum in reguard to bluing parts for a lathe hope this helps. I do lots of gunsmithing and have found this is the best method that works for me. Bluing a part will not add to its size altho might restrict some movement due to friction altho I have never seen this as a problem.

Brownell Oxpho blue
Clean the parts very well, I use acetone let them soak for a while to get the oil out of the pores. once they are clean don't touch them with your bare hands use latex/vinyl gloves. (Important keep the parts free from oil until your done)
warm the parts just over room temp. You will need steel wool, be sure to soak the steel wool in acetone as well to remove the preservative oil. I use a small piece of steel wool to scrub the part on the first application of the bluing solution to get an even coat for the subsquent coatings. I normally make at least three coats then go from there. It is important to polish between coats with the wool, I think they recommend "O" wool but not sure, anyway it is listed on the bottle. Brownell also has the applicators, they are wire with a fuzzy end, that way you can use a clean one between coats.
The most important part is to keep the parts free from any oil while bluing. Then follow the directions on the bottle.

Of course the bluing will only be as good as the finish you put on the part. If you get a good smooth polished finish you will get a really pretty color.
Sounds kinda drawn out but it is easy to do and get a nice finish. When you get the color like you want it then put a coat of oil on it and let it soak for a little and wipe it town. Once the bluing gets oil on it will stop working.
Hope this helps.

[pacrat]

Previous posters covered how to cold blue, and all good advice, especially the clean part.

If all doesn't go as planned the quick removal method for a restart is to use a 10% solution of muriatic acid in water for a rinse or wipe and the blueing is gone. As with all types of nasty chemical uses rubber gloves and eye protection is required. A boiling water rinse is suggested to open pores and neutralize the acid afterwards.

[Harold_V]

This gun was blued using oxpho after a soft etch was achieved in a bead blast cabinet.

That's an outstanding finish---one I'd be proud to show anyone.

I would imagine oxpho could be used for pretty much any steel product---might look good on shop made tooling, for example.

I've always liked and enjoyed guns, but it they have never been a priority in my life. To that end, many years ago I had P.O. Ackley make me three rifles that were all fitted with Harry Lawson thumbhole stocks. As I recall, Lawson was located in Arizona. Since the time they were built, I have done almost nothing with guns aside from acquire several revolvers. I have no idea what has become of Harry Lawson, although I expect he may be long gone. Do any of you have any knowledge of what may have become of him, or his operation? His stocks were very tastefully done.

Harold

[pacrat]

-no website available only address/ph# for the below-
Harry Lawson Co.
3328 n. Richey blvd.
Tucson, Az 85716
1-520-326-1117

Harold, I snitched this address off of another forum, I'm not sure if it is still current or not.

[Harold_V]

Thanks, pacrat. I did a reverse search and found they are still listed. That sure settles my curiosity! Now I can turn my attention to matters of importance!

Harold

[Metalshaper]

Harold_V said "That's an outstanding finish---one I'd be proud to show anyone"

Thanks!! turned out pretty well. I/we actually etched the brass as well and it made for a nice overall look?

Hal... have you tried to blue yet??

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan