How to tighten the gibs and screws on an old BP?

[rsr911]

We've got an old BP manual machine at work and the screws have the typical wear in the center, can I adjust this out? Also are the ways adjustable? I assume the must be since my old Logan lathe has adjustments for the cross-slides and it's not the "industrial" piece that a Bridgeport mill is. I've been looking at the machine and just can't determine how to tighten things up.

[Rich_Carlstedt]

BP
To tighten the table gib
Run the table to the right, almost all the way
Go to the rear left side (as you look at the mill) of the saddle, just under the rear table way, and you will see the gib adjustment screw.
Take a big screwdriver and screw it in till it stops, then back out about 1 to 1 1/2 turns and you should be close.
Now look inside the table/saddle with a flashlight, while you are there.
You may need to back the table out to the left about 3 to 5 inches, buit looking in, you should see the bronze nut on the lead screw.
You will see a little screw (this is the "lock") on top of a bigger screw ( this is the adjustment)
loosen the lock with a long thin screw driver, then take a very stout heavy screw driver and try to tighten the big screw. It will be hard !
While doing this, move the table back and forth so you can feel the nut backlash reduce.......
Note ! Not all Leadscrew nuts are adjustable.. from the factory.. some were not "split" or "slotted. making any adjustment almost impossible

To tighten the saddle/crosslide..
THIS is much more dificult.
Remove the way wipers, front and rear ( ! )
the gib screw is on the left.
after adjusting to suit, check the rear. If the gib is sticking out beyound the saddle sides, remove the gib, and cut off the small end about 1/2 inch.
CAREFUL..this is cast iron, and if you drop it, it will break and you will need a new one, and that has to be scrapped back in ! $$$$$
To adjust the leadscrew, bring the table forward, then remove the 4 screws holding the bearing cap. these are the ones right in front.
now turn the handle (Y) and the handle and bearing will screw itself away from the machine. when it is about 6 inches out, you should see the two screws, similar to the table nut..adjust as needed.

remember. old machines wear in the middle and while some adjustment can help, it is still an old machine.
Good Luck

[rsr911]

Rich,

Thank you very much for the info. I'll definately be saving it to my harddrive. I knew the thing had to have some adjustment in it somewhere. While we are on the subject of the ways, is there a recommended grease for these or is regular "grease gun" grease OK?

[GeorgeGaskill]

even though they appear to have grease fittings. It turns out that a high pressure oiler similar to a grease gun is used to apply the way oil through the zerk fittings.

There is a project for making a high pressure oiler on the metalwebnews website. Search google for "high pressure oiler" and you will get lots of hits.

[rsr911]

So I could in fact use an old pressure vessel and my air compressor (regulated) to force the oil into the ways. Seems a smart man would rig up a semi automatic oiler by removing the Zerk fittings and installing hose. Hmm. another project I'll get around to some day.

[Rich_Carlstedt]

My BP (1943) had grease on the ways when i got it..
Since it was stored for 20 years, that really helped...BUT it takes a lot to
move the table.
I took a small hand grease gun (mini model) and used it upside down, putting way lube in , and using the the pump which now was at the bottom.. works OK, but storing it is a pain, as it always wants to fall over (and leak)...so I pulled the zerks and went central lube..way to go....

Now why would they use grease?..well it meant long periods between lube I guess..but switch to oil means about .005 tighter on the gibs