Odyknuck wrote: ↑Thu Mar 23, 2023 11:34 am
The 2 bolt is my preface for reasons mentioned. Russ, it appears I will need to extend the boss on the inside of the crank to add the additional bolt. Do you see any clearance issues doing so?
Russ, it appears an 1/8" needs removed from the right side of the relief.
Two bolt clamp should work if more material is left on the "inside" of the crank for that bolt.
I do not understand your reference to "...1/8" needs to be removed from the..."
What part, where? Pictures, drawings always clarify.
RussN
The length of the crank has a radius cutout in it. It appears to be more for weight reduction more than any clearance. The 1.19 value would become 1.315
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CrankArmTop_rotated.jpg (76.54 KiB) Viewed 963 times
CrankArmside_rotated.jpg (81.06 KiB) Viewed 963 times
Last edited by rmac on Fri Mar 24, 2023 9:21 am, edited 1 time in total.
Reason:Photo Orientation, Enhancement
Since the milled recess is to the outside and not "clearing" anything, I see no reason that would not work as desired.
Go for it.
When I built my loco valve gear I used the single high strength bolt to clamp the return crank to the main crank pin.
After getting the valve timing all adjusted, I then drilled the holes though the crank and main pin,
and lightly pressed in the locking bolts and added locking nuts. The single bolts easily held the crank in position during adjustments.
RussN
Buddy had a rush Job so no parts for me today. Awhile back I made an exhaust diverter and the design required the bottom plug and top nipple to hold it in place. Unfortunately it would be a PITA to get it aligned after the Pilot truck and Equalizer bar are installed. so I decide it needed to be mounted in the Cross permanently. so I drilled and tapped 2 4-40 cap screws in the bottom plug. Had to remove some brass from the plug to make room for the screws.
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ExhaustDiverterPlugClearanceing.jpg (197.43 KiB) Viewed 928 times
ExhaustDiverterTapCentering.jpg (281.06 KiB) Viewed 928 times
ExhaustDiveterTapping.jpg (325.56 KiB) Viewed 928 times
ExhaustInstalled.jpg (350.13 KiB) Viewed 928 times
ExhaustNippleBolted.jpg (232.41 KiB) Viewed 928 times
last Saturday was spent making the Return Cranks. Not sure what happened however to my surprise the mounting holes were cut undersized. So, I had to set them up on the mill and sized them with a boring bar. I am undecided on how I want to surface Finish these valve gear parts however I did glass bead the Cranks that gave them a satin finish and I kind of like it.
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ReturnCrank303BarStock.jpg (133.97 KiB) Viewed 764 times
ReturnCrankclampHoles.jpg (51.23 KiB) Viewed 764 times
ReturnCrankProfile.jpg (120.32 KiB) Viewed 764 times
Finally got back to completing the Piston rods. The piston rods were originally threaded into the crossheads with a taper however on the remake I went with RussN's recommendation of all threaded with a lock nut for adjustment. I did not feel a need to make new shafts, so I simply threaded the existing ones. They already had a 3/8" x 24 thread on them so it was just a matter of sizing them to .375 1.125" long and run a die down them. I use a piece of brass sheet to act as a soft jaw so not to mar the surface. It went well.
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PistonsSoftJaws.jpg (129.18 KiB) Viewed 660 times
PistonShaftTurning.jpg (86.81 KiB) Viewed 660 times
PistonShaftThreading.jpg (116.25 KiB) Viewed 660 times
pistoncrosslide.jpg (113.34 KiB) Viewed 660 times
PistonShaftLockNut.jpg (65.67 KiB) Viewed 660 times
Pistons complete.jpg (130.88 KiB) Viewed 660 times
Me too. They are as square as the existing threads on the shafts. I ran out of time today to check for runout on the cross slides. In anticipation of them not being square, I have material to make new shafts. I will have them done on a CNC lathe at my buddy's shop.