New York Central J1e

[Hudson Honey]

Jack,

Your detail work is phenominal......

Question.....on the firebox door.....there is a pedal assembly that was used to accuate the steam/air powered door. are you making this bit of jewelry as well and will you make it available?

also..I'm in for the gauge light assemblies


Pamela

[Steam Engine Dan]

Here is another little trinket. Brad worked his usual magic with some masters that were sent him and sent these lovely castings. Some little square bead bolts were made to hold the things together, and Bob's yer' uncle. Modern steam had gaggles of these little blobs and bits and that's what makes it so cool. If you would like one of low water alarms, check out the for sale section.
Jack

How does the low water alarm detect a low water level on the prototypes?

if you look closely you should see a little whistle mouted to the low water alarm. if the water level got really low in the boiler, it would activate that whistle telling the engine crew that they need to inject more water pronto.

[makinsmoke]

Good gravy, Jack,
Makes me want to just go cut out paper dolls.......


Brian

[JBodenmann]

Hello My Friends
First off, I must thank you for the generous compliments, you guys are much too kind.. The Nathan low water alarm works by temperature differential, when the water in the boiler gets below a certain level steam fills the top tube causing it to expand, and the lever that connects the top tube to the solid bar underneath presses down on the valve stem causing the whistle in the cab to let go with a screech. The Barco low water alarm we have here, contained a float. When the water in the boiler got below a certain point, the float dropped and blew a whistle on top of the boiler and one in the cab. The Barco also had some sort of delay mechanism so the whistles wouldn't go off every time the water sloshed back and forth in the boiler.
To answer Pam's question, there will be a little foot pedal to operate the door with air pressure. There will also be a small lever that sticks up above the left rear corner of the cab roof that will operate the fire door. That way you can lean forward with your left hand on the cab roof and your thumb on the button for the fire door, whilst your right hand shovels merrily away with the coal scoop. Next to the fire door operating button on the cab roof there is also a button for the whistle. Same as the fire door button, you can lean on the cab roof with your left hand while your thumb blows for a grade crossing while your right hand never leaves the throttle lever, and is ready to hit the brakes if needed. If you look at the picture looking down into the cab you can just see the whistle lever in the lower left hand corner.
I guess I will start some masters and fixtures to make the little gauges and cab lamps. No shortage of things to do!
Jack

[DJSteamer3017]

Wow Running sounds simple enough lol!! Will any of the valves for like the blower and injector be labeled?

David

[JBodenmann]

Hello My Friends
It's most timely that you should ask about labels for the valves and gauges in the cab as thoughts have been in that direction here. There is a local shop that does engraving and photo engraving. Little stainless tags with raised lettering and black backgrounds come to mind. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Jack

[DJSteamer3017]

Hello My Friends
It's most timely that you should ask about labels for the valves and gauges in the cab as thoughts have been in that direction here. There is a local shop that does engraving and photo engraving. Little stainless tags with raised lettering and black backgrounds come to mind. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Jack

Jack

You should do the labels like the ones on Lew's Santa Fe 2-10-4 Texas at LALS, all in one strip of Whatever metal you have lying around, and I think engraving it will be best because paint will just fade over time, but whatever is best for you paint or no paint. Keep on Building my Friend!!

David

[JBodenmann]

Hello My Friends
Here is something you may find useful. As the J1e will have brakes on the Commonwealth tender trucks a brake cylinder will be needed. Jim Kreider provided one of his very nice Nickel Plate Berkshire tender brake cylinders. In this first photo it is chucked up in the lathe and is being bored with a brand new tip in the boring bar. It is important to use a new tip so as to get the best finish possible. In photo two the cylinder is starting to be polished. A piece of wood has a little pad on the end made by wrapping a piece of old tee shirt around it and secured with some masking tape. Then some wet or dry paper is wrapped around this and the cylinder is zoomed with it and some water. The water keeps the paper from loading up. #320 grit was started with and then 400, 600, and 1200 grit in succession. The last photo shows our home made giant Q tip being charged with semi chrome metal polish after being wrapped with some more old tee shirt. This will really give the cylinder a nice mirror like finish.

[JBodenmann]

Now that's pretty, the brake cylinder ready for the piston cup. For these large cylinders a commercial brake cup is used. Pictures of the piston and cup coming soon. And then picture of the mostly done giant ( 2" bore ) brake cylinder setting next to the 3/4" cylinder. Too much fun.
Jack

[highiron999]

Jack;

That cab layout is too nice! Go man go!

Leonard Evans/Highiron999

[KidAmato]

Jack;

That cab layout is too nice! Go man go!

Leonard Evans/Highiron999

The man has a point jack. Your work is just beyond outstanding and is by far my favorite.
Keep it up man!

Nico.

[JBodenmann]

Hello My Friends
Thanks Leonard and Nico.
Jack