Driver Thrust Bearing
Re: Driver Thrust Bearing
am i the only one wondering how this much wear would appear over a single years time? how tight is the assembly?
how much side to side movement do you have?
how much side to side movement do you have?
If it is not live steam. its not worth it.
Re: Driver Thrust Bearing
This, with bronze thrust washers for the win. In my opinion anyway.Bill Shields wrote: ↑Sun Jan 16, 2022 6:18 pm I am all in on the lube up the center trick which I have been using for decades. I also cut radial grooves in the thrust discs so that they can allow lube up on the face.
I've used my Dremel with a small ball end carbide bit to add grease grooves to many a bushing/bronze washer.
Regarding the wear, I'm curious if the locomotive is navigating tight curves which is putting excessive side forces on the thrust bearings? That's a lot of wear for 26 hours.
- Bill Shields
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Re: Driver Thrust Bearing
Yes it is..I have locos decades old with less wear
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: Driver Thrust Bearing
My first loco is 22 years old with no noticeable wear on the thrust bearings (Allen American)
If it is not live steam. its not worth it.
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Re: Driver Thrust Bearing
Teflon takes lots of heat
- Bill Shields
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Re: Driver Thrust Bearing
Teflon will also imbed dirt an become a lapping disc.
Best to stay away from synthetics in hot and dirty areas like this
Best to stay away from synthetics in hot and dirty areas like this
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: Driver Thrust Bearing
In Daves case I'd also expect there to be quite a bit of visible flange wear to go along with it.
GWRdriver
Nashville TN
Nashville TN
Re: Driver Thrust Bearing
I tried Teflon thrust washers in a similar application (custom built copper pipe bead roller), and the results were very weird. It held up good for awhile, then rapidly ate into the bearing surface behind it and disintegrated (1/8" thick washer was completely missing and it had a ton of end play). I figure it got grit in it and ate itself.Bill Shields wrote: ↑Tue Jan 18, 2022 9:23 am Teflon will also imbed dirt an become a lapping disc.
Best to stay away from synthetics in hot and dirty areas like this
- Greg_Lewis
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Re: Driver Thrust Bearing
I wouldn't use Teflon, but the oil-filled polyethylene should work if heat isn't an issue. Teflon will cold flow. I'm not sure what the cold flow of the poly is but I'd think it would be better.
Greg Lewis, Prop.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Re: Driver Thrust Bearing
Aluminum bronze thrust bearings with grease and also grease for the replacement needle bearings would be my choice.
A small chainsaw grease pump through drilled axles works well.
Denny
A small chainsaw grease pump through drilled axles works well.
Denny
"Measure twice, curse once."
- Bill Shields
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Re: Driver Thrust Bearing
If you are going to keep the needles...then greasing from axle center out is important from the aspect of pushing hirt OUT of the bearing rather than letting dirt seep in.
Were it me..I would return to bronze bearings on the axles.
In this location...needles gain you nothing but headaches.
A properly lubricated bronze bearing will outlast anything else on the loco.
Were it me..I would return to bronze bearings on the axles.
In this location...needles gain you nothing but headaches.
A properly lubricated bronze bearing will outlast anything else on the loco.
Too many things going on to bother listing them.