Boiler jacket finish
Boiler jacket finish
Ok, so after two years of running my mikado, I'm not happy with the paint finish on my boiler jacket..... As memory recalls, I cleaned the jacket with acetone, and painted it with Rust-Oleum primer, and gloss black in a rattle can.....after drying, I coated it with a laquer based spray on clear coat....it looked good for a while, but after a while, the soot ,smoke, ashes and cinders have impinged themselves into the clear coat ?... Step one, I have found a successful way to clean it. Working in small areas, I rub it down with cdc brake cleaner, this seems to dissolve the laquer then wipe it clean, with an automotive pre paint cleaner. Success...!!!....this gets it down to the original gloss black paint, which is still shiny and intact........my question now is, once it's thoroughly cleaned, what can I spray it with, for a top coat, that will keep it shiny , that the coal ash and soot, won't impinge itself into ????
Re: Boiler jacket finish
I don’t think you need a top coat. If the paint is shiny as you say, just keeping it cleaned after a run should be all that is required.
And if the paint does dull a little..a quick rub with DuPont white polishing compound will bring back any luster.
Keith
And if the paint does dull a little..a quick rub with DuPont white polishing compound will bring back any luster.
Keith
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Re: Boiler jacket finish
Have you thought about having it powder coated. I had my k36 powder coated 10 years ago and it still looks as good as the first day. Powder is very durable and long lasting
Paul Edmonds,
Surrey, United Kingdom.
2.5" Scale D&RGW K36, 1/6" Scale Challenger 4-6-6-4 (nearly done!!)
Surrey, United Kingdom.
2.5" Scale D&RGW K36, 1/6" Scale Challenger 4-6-6-4 (nearly done!!)
- Bill Shields
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Re: Boiler jacket finish
Ever consider a stainless steel jacket?
May not be prototype...but is a lot easier to deal with
May not be prototype...but is a lot easier to deal with
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: Boiler jacket finish
My restoration team installed a stainless steel jacket on Heisler #90 for the then-new Mt. Rainier Scenic RR. In 1981.
Stainless steel was more difficult to work with, but the results are long lasting and look good to my eyes.
RussN
Stainless steel was more difficult to work with, but the results are long lasting and look good to my eyes.
RussN
Re: Boiler jacket finish
how difficult is painting a Stainless jacket?
- Bill Shields
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Re: Boiler jacket finish
about like painting anything else stainless steel.
helps if you rough / etch the surface
generally - the SS jackets I have see are all natural.
from my standpoint -> the idea of using stainless is to avoid painting...BTIJOMO
helps if you rough / etch the surface
generally - the SS jackets I have see are all natural.
from my standpoint -> the idea of using stainless is to avoid painting...BTIJOMO
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: Boiler jacket finish
Don't paint SS jackets. That's one of the points of using that material.
RussN
RussN
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Re: Boiler jacket finish
SS will eventually rust. Used to be steel manufacturers carefully controlled the amount of ferrous materials in their stainless mill runs. No longer. Now the quality is simply not there. If you can find some hi grade stainless, go for it - if you like the look. However, if you want a distinct color scheme, better to use plain sheet metal and have it powder coated, or do a high end paint job.
Glenn
Glenn
Moderator - Grand Scale Forum
Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge
Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge
Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
- Bill Shields
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Re: Boiler jacket finish
the formation of 'rust' (oxide) has always depended on the grade of stainless you purchase.Glenn Brooks wrote: ↑Mon Dec 20, 2021 8:55 pm SS will eventually rust. Used to be steel manufacturers carefully controlled the amount of ferrous materials in their stainless mill runs. No longer. Now the quality is simply not there. If you can find some hi grade stainless, go for it - if you like the look. However, if you want a distinct color scheme, better to use plain sheet metal and have it powder coated, or do a high end paint job.
Glenn
Choose wisely grasshopper...
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: Boiler jacket finish
My dad used Rust Oleum finish with no top coat and I have done the same as I repaint things. Smaller parts go in the kitchen oven at the lowest temperature is can be set to for an hour or so. For cleaning I dust it off with a soft paint brush then gently wipe it down with a liberal coat of WD40 and a soft rag. I work in a small enough area to wipe it off before it dries and leave as little residue behind as possible.
Fresh paint while it looks and feels dry can actually take several days to off gas and cure. Additional coats applied too soon trap gasses beneath and can cause the top coat to be dull and soft.
Re: Boiler jacket finish
If a 300 series is selected (it normally is) it won't rust if it is passivated before being placed in service. That should happen after ALL work is done in fitting the jacket. Rusting of austenitic stainless is caused by free iron on the surface. Passivation removes the iron and creates the impervious surface finish that prevents further rusting.
Note that the grades of stainless are strictly controlled (and certification is generally provided upon request) so the notion that the alloy has, somehow, changed, isn't true unless the material has been procured from a questionable source. Note, also, that if the finished surface is scratched by a ferrous source (after passivation), it may still rust, but only where the surface has been damaged. The rust is the result of deposited iron.
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.