Hauling your locomotive

[Berkman]

I should have used "equalizing" instead of "sway hitch" but didn't mean to suggest that torsion axles had any effect on sway. Just that in general an equalizing hitch for SUVs might be a good option. I thought an equalizing hitch did help with sway though.

Anyone used a hydraulic disc brake conversion on a cargo trailer?

Also don't some people use rated truck tires on trailers instead of "trailer tires"?

[FLSTEAM]

The really important thing is to have enough tongue weight. Don't load a lot of weight in the back of the trailer.

JB

[BMRR]

I have had 2 tandem trailers to haul my 1300# plus locomotive in addition to cars, tools and coal. The most important factor was getting one long enough to balance the weight over the wheels so that the weight on the hitch provided proper stability when towing. A lower center of gravity from the trailer is another advantage. I also found that a "V" front seemed to aid in lowering of wind resistance and buffeting.
Chris

[Greg_Lewis]

...
Also don't some people use rated truck tires on trailers instead of "trailer tires"?

The sources I've checked say that trailer tires are constructed differently from truck tires and you should not use one for the other. The forces on a trailer tire are different from those on a vehicle tire. One site says, "The trailer tire often features strengthened sidewalls that are used in preventing the tire from rolling beneath the rims in case of turns and during the time when it is cornering." The source also says the trailer tire is designed for a higher vertical load than the equivalent truck tire.

While this doesn't mean you can't use truck tires, tires rated for trailer use are what are recommended for trailers.

[pat1027]

I opted to stick with the 8' box and carrying the locomotive in the truck. This limited me to a regular cab in order to stay with a 1500. I have a pacific which will just fit into the 6.5' box so next time maybe an extended cab maybe not. I like the price point of the simpler equipped truck. If your Mikado is close to the Railroad Supply spec's it's inches too long to fit into the "standard" 6.5' box. So it's 8' box pickup or a trailer.

For hauling cars I bought a 6' x 14' tandem torsion axle and flat front. At six foot I could fit three tracks in the trailer (it's tight) and see down the side without extending the mirrors. 14' allowed two cars on a track and flexibility to position cars to balance the tongue weight. A contractor friend recommended torsion axles for a better ride. Keeping the trailer level is important with torsion axles so I had to change ball mounts once I had the truck loaded with the locomotive. The front it basically flat with rounded edges. Two trailer dealers told me in their experience hauling them up from the factory that there wouldn't be much difference in fuel economy between a short V nose and rounded corners. My mileage drops from low to mid 20's running 70MPH without trailer to 15MPG with the locomotive and trailer running 60MPH. To haul a locomotive I'd consider closer floor stringer spacing. Mine are 24". Closer spacing is an option. Electric brakes are probably standard. One axle does nicely for me.

I'd consider security too, particularly if you are going to store anything in the trailer. The average hitch lock it pretty easy to break or cut off but it'll stop the lazy thief. There are some heavier locks on the market. Then it should be stolen how to find it. I mounted a GPS tracker on mine. https://automile.com/tracker-standard. There are a bunch of them on the market. I get alerts when the trailer moves. If it leaves a geo fence it starts tracking and I can follow the route and location on my cell phone.

[Greg_Lewis]

...
I'd consider security too, particularly if you are going to store anything in the trailer. The average hitch lock it pretty easy to break or cut off but it'll stop the lazy thief. There are some heavier locks on the market. Then it should be stolen how to find it. I mounted a GPS tracker on mine. https://automile.com/tracker-standard. There are a bunch of them on the market. I get alerts when the trailer moves. If it leaves a geo fence it starts tracking and I can follow the route and location on my cell phone.

Excellent point. This forum has reported more than once about a stolen trailer with trains inside. Sadly, the thieves would more than likely dump the trains as something hard to sell and fence the trailer before you knew it was gone.

[pat1027]

...and radial tires. I noticed my boat trailer towed smoother with radials so I bought my trailer with radials. I carry a spare tire too.

For prospective in size, this is my 6' x 14' trailer with three tracks installed. Hauling a locomotive you'd probably load that down the center. Depending on what you plan for cars you could do something like an extra level or two on the left. Locomotive down the center and just floor level on the right. That would give good access to tie the locomotive down. The side door would give access to the front if you put some cars on both sides. A 7' wide gives some additional width and would be nice. I wanted to see straight down the side in the mirrors and made 6' wide work. If I go to a track with a lift table I can get the top level unloaded. With fixed level unloading I can get just the bottom and the middle.

[pat1027]

This forum has reported more than once about a stolen trailer with trains inside.

That is what got me thinking seriously about security. If possible step one is to park the trailer so it isn't a quick back in grab and go. Then keep it locked up. The simple die cast tongue locks will stop the casual thief but they can be snapped off with a pry bar. Heavier duty ones using basically a U-bolt over the tongue can be cut off pretty easily. I've looked at a lock from https://www.provenlocks.com/. Each step makes it incrementally harder to steal.

My lot makes it difficult to block the trailer in and I wondered too about traveling over night. I've read about horse trailers being stolen off trucks trail side while the owners were out riding. GPS trackers are pretty common in construction for excavators down to welding machines. I found the Automile tracker for $99 with the first years tracking included. My renewal just came and it is $78 for the coming year. There are some that you track yourself but you still need a cellular service so it can call in. The Automile reports in once a day with position and battery condition. If it senses movement or moves outside a geo fence I set it begins active reporting sending it's position every 2-5 minutes. I get an alert on my phone. Below is a screen shot of the track I got on my phone driving down the road with it stashed away on my trailer.

[pat1027]

For the load height of the locomotive I would consider the height you will need to unload at. It's a headache to roll a locomotive across loading ramps that angle up and down very much. It's a lot easier to roll them straight in and out. As low a ride height as possible (practical) would be nice but I wouldn't be afraid to raise it up if needed. Give some thought to how you will secure it. Riding in the truck I have mine tied down by the drawbar pockets. it rides o.k. but this lets it rock some side to side. Fred Hanson would take the decorative steam dome off and had a bracket that went around the actual steam dome.

Most enclosed trailers have formed angle stringers under the floor and a plywood or chip board deck. I built my rack with a foot spanning two of the stringers then bolted through the stringers not just the wood deck.

The E-Track is o.k. for cars but I would skip it for something as heavy as a 2-8-2 and make a purpose built tie down. Again bolting through the trailer frame.

I used flat bars for the lower track. I plan to add a small angle on the inside to make a guard rail. Derailing in the trailer is a headache. On the upper levels my tie downs are stiffer and i don't have any issues.

[Fender]

One security measure you can take when the vehicle is attached (such as when staying overnight at a motel) is to back the trailer up with its tires against a curb. This will keep someone from merely unhitching it from the vehicle and taking it, especially if there is significant weight on the tongue.

[Greg_Lewis]

One security measure you can take when the vehicle is attached (such as when staying overnight at a motel) is to back the trailer up with its tires against a curb. This will keep someone from merely unhitching it from the vehicle and taking it, especially if there is significant weight on the tongue.

Hmmm... an idea. My trailer has a detachable jack. If it's locked inside the trailer.........

[Bill Shields]

We used to put a jack under Harold Crouch's trailer frame at the club when loading and unloading..part of the standard routine.

I have a 4 screw up / down lift unit at my house that will meet any trailer or truck height. It was a bit of work to build but well worth the effort 20 years later.