Hello all,
I am building Kozo's Pennsylvania A3 Switcher in 3/4 scale. I changed the cylinder pistons to have a viton o-ring.
The question is what kind of oil do I put in the lubricator to run it on air? and what kind to run it on steam?
I have it running on air now, without any o-rings on the pistons.
Thanks for the help!
lubricator oil
Re: lubricator oil
Even running on air without rings you should always use some lubrication, ....running on air, I just use normal steam cylinder oil... Its heavy weight offers good mechanical protection while air testing
Re: lubricator oil
A question this raises in my mind. and one I've not seen asked or addressed (it may have been, I just haven't seen it) is this . . . does steam oil have any detrimental effects on O-rings?
As for lubrication during testing I think steam oil is too viscous, especially if cool. I use an ISO/60 hydraulic oil, first because I keep it on hand, and I keep it on hand because it's a superb lubricant. But I wouldn't see any problem with using a conventional motor oil. Whatever lube you use for testing, other than steam oil, would be flushed out with the first steaming anyway.
As for lubrication during testing I think steam oil is too viscous, especially if cool. I use an ISO/60 hydraulic oil, first because I keep it on hand, and I keep it on hand because it's a superb lubricant. But I wouldn't see any problem with using a conventional motor oil. Whatever lube you use for testing, other than steam oil, would be flushed out with the first steaming anyway.
GWRdriver
Nashville TN
Nashville TN
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Bill Shields
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Re: lubricator oil
Viton is just fine in steam cylinder oil.
I would also be concerned about the slide valves being run 'dry' on air.
I would also be concerned about the slide valves being run 'dry' on air.
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: lubricator oil
I lightly oiled the moving parts when running on air. Figured something was better than nothing.
where do you buy the steaming oil? I was going to clean and reassemble after running on air, but if it will all flush out running on steam, that's great!
where do you buy the steaming oil? I was going to clean and reassemble after running on air, but if it will all flush out running on steam, that's great!
Re: lubricator oil
Something IS better than nothing, and steam oil is available from a number of hobby suppliers.
Are you in or near a club? Steam oil is still used in many industries so your local petroleum distributors (if you have one) will sell it, or if not in stock can get it. Because their smallest quantity will typically be 5-gal pails you might check with the club as there may be a steam oil pool divvying up a 5-gal pail.
To be accurate, steam oil will eventually be flushed out also, but not before it does the job it's formulated to do.
Are you in or near a club? Steam oil is still used in many industries so your local petroleum distributors (if you have one) will sell it, or if not in stock can get it. Because their smallest quantity will typically be 5-gal pails you might check with the club as there may be a steam oil pool divvying up a 5-gal pail.
To be accurate, steam oil will eventually be flushed out also, but not before it does the job it's formulated to do.
GWRdriver
Nashville TN
Nashville TN
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Pontiacguy1
- Posts: 1572
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- Location: Tennessee, USA
Re: lubricator oil
Viton is very resistant to chemical attack and breakdown, so I wouldn't be worried about it being changed or attacked by oil so much. We had a large solvent cleaning system at the company where I used to work, and the valves in the lines would have to have viton seals on them or they wouldn't be sealing for very long. The Viton would last quite a long time, even in constant contact with a solvent. Neoprene would go away pretty quickly under those circumstances.
When running on air, I always use the same oil in the cylinders that I used on the chassis. I typically use a heavier rear-end gear oil on the chassis (80w-90) for my locomotives, so that's what I use in the cylinders. If you're in a smaller scale like 3/4", you might use a 30 weight oil instead. Whatever you use, once you put steam to the cylinders, it will blow it out quickly. I wouldn't actually put that oil into the lubricator, just add a good amount into the steam chest by removing the snifter valve or the check from the steam chest cover. Unless you are planning on doing a huge break-in run that lasts several hours, the best thing would be to manually add a few drops to the cylinders every once in a while.
I will tell you what one old fellow I met down at a meet in Texas told me: "If it moves, oil it. If you're not sure whether it moves or not, oil it anyway. If you're absolutely sure that it doesn't move, paint it."
When running on air, I always use the same oil in the cylinders that I used on the chassis. I typically use a heavier rear-end gear oil on the chassis (80w-90) for my locomotives, so that's what I use in the cylinders. If you're in a smaller scale like 3/4", you might use a 30 weight oil instead. Whatever you use, once you put steam to the cylinders, it will blow it out quickly. I wouldn't actually put that oil into the lubricator, just add a good amount into the steam chest by removing the snifter valve or the check from the steam chest cover. Unless you are planning on doing a huge break-in run that lasts several hours, the best thing would be to manually add a few drops to the cylinders every once in a while.
I will tell you what one old fellow I met down at a meet in Texas told me: "If it moves, oil it. If you're not sure whether it moves or not, oil it anyway. If you're absolutely sure that it doesn't move, paint it."
Re: lubricator oil
I'm not near a club, and with covid, not likely to get near one for a while. If I wanted to test it on steam with a torch for heat, what kind of oil could I use in a pinch?