Tubes...leaking

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rkcarguy
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Re: Tubes...leaking

Post by rkcarguy »

OMG "exercise in continuous maintenance" so true. I was told that for every hour run time = 2 hours maintenance and another guy said not true. Well I have been at this cense Aug 17, 2019 and still don't have one hour of run time.
I don't want to "leak water" on live steam, but this is one of the reasons I opted not to get involved (with Steam) until after I retire. I already have a boat that also requires at least 2 hours of maintenance, flushing, draining, packing, unpacking, etc, for each hour of use that goes on the meter.

Hopefully you can get it fixed by rolling your tube ends. I've seen people use threaded rods or cables with threaded ends swaged on (if you can't get a straight shot a the tube(s), snaked through from the smoke box side, then lathe up a little tapered sleeve, thread it on there, and tighten up the other end.
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AnthonyDuarte
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Re: Tubes...leaking

Post by AnthonyDuarte »

Emfinger,

Unless I've missed it, you still need to tell us if the current tubes are welded in or rolled in. You mentioned they're steel, but if they're welded in they can't be rerolled. If they're rolled in to start, then you can reroll them, assuming the leak is around the end of the tube and not somewhere else.

Anthony
Emfinger
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Re: Tubes...leaking

Post by Emfinger »

AnthonyDuarte wrote: Thu Jan 14, 2021 1:43 pm Emfinger,

Unless I've missed it, you still need to tell us if the current tubes are welded in or rolled in. You mentioned they're steel, but if they're welded in they can't be rerolled. If they're rolled in to start, then you can reroll them, assuming the leak is around the end of the tube and not somewhere else.

Anthony
Tony
I'm sorry, all steel, rolled tubes 5/8" ID. I think it has been leaking for a little while. Less than a year from the last hydro test 165 pounds...so what.
One rolled tube leaks at the sheet. Going in with a bore scope today to check the inside of the tubes. As old as this is I'm sure it's time for a re-tube. Any tips?
Thank you
Tom
k36no4862002
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Re: Tubes...leaking

Post by k36no4862002 »

Hmm, I think pics would help along with what others have asked for, boiler material, tube material and how they are fixed, rolled, welded etc.
I managed to retube my k35 with the boiler on, but its a big boiler.
Lets have some pics and we can go.from there, leaky tubes are not the.end
Paul Edmonds,
Surrey, United Kingdom.
2.5" Scale D&RGW K36, 1/6" Scale Challenger 4-6-6-4 (nearly done!!)
pat1027
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Re: Tubes...leaking

Post by pat1027 »

A leak at the tube sheet in itself isn't a disaster. When I did club boiler inspections it wasn't uncommon with rolled tubes. It might be as easy as touching it with a roller again. It doesn't take much. If corrosion has taken hold that's another situation.
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kcameron
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Re: Tubes...leaking

Post by kcameron »

I've also been told that minor leaking during a hydro from rolled tubes is not a DQ if you can tell it is the joint with the tube sheet and not the tube itself. When heated under use many will not leak as the metal expands a bit. But it takes being very careful to see what is leaking first!
-ken cameron
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Harold_V
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Re: Tubes...leaking

Post by Harold_V »

Mike Walsh wrote: Thu Jan 14, 2021 7:33 am Your posts are very vague and some might consider it "vaguebooking", to borrow a term from the #1 social media website. If you are just venting, then say so.. But if you are asking for help, you need to provide ALL of the information needed for those who want to help you, and then some.
I've moderated this venue for 20 years, and have frequented others, although not regularly. It has been my experience that some folks post for approval, not necessarily for advice. They want to be told they are on the right track, and often don't appreciate any opposing views.

How sad for them, as they open the door to failure.

By contrast, one should always read comments with some degree of skepticism, as there's no shortage of folks who delight in promoting falsehoods.

I'm not suggesting that that is the case here---I just wanted to comment so the idea becomes one of the possibilities to consider.

Know the credentials of those who try to help. Try to stick to credible sources, those who have a track record of providing acceptable guidance. Almost everyone has an opinion. That it is or isn't worth reading may be debatable.

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
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Greg_Lewis
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Re: Tubes...leaking

Post by Greg_Lewis »

A question for the experts: Isn't there something you can put in the boiler that would stop the leak? I recall the Bar's Leaks we used in old car radiators (which didn't work in the BB-sized holes in my Model A radiator!).
Greg Lewis, Prop.
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Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Emfinger
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Re: Tubes...leaking

Post by Emfinger »

Greg_Lewis wrote: Thu Jan 14, 2021 6:52 pm A question for the experts: Isn't there something you can put in the boiler that would stop the leak? I recall the Bar's Leaks we used in old car radiators (which didn't work in the BB-sized holes in my Model A radiator!).
Nor will it work at 100 PSI and 350 degrees !
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rudd
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Re: Tubes...leaking

Post by rudd »

Friend who worked at Georgetown Loop stated "Sheep Sh**" was the magic elixer. Might not scale too well. :mrgreen:
jkimberln
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Re: Tubes...leaking

Post by jkimberln »

sodium silicate. McMaster-Carr has it. You have to remove all the valves and such before you use it since it will clog up everything. You mix about a cup of sodium silicate with water and put it in the boiler. then when everything is sealed up, you put a little air pressure on it, like 5 psig. When it stops leaking at that pressure, you increase the pressure to 10 psig. When that quits leaking you increase... etc...etc. until you get up to your test pressure. Drain and rinse several times.
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baggo
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Re: Tubes...leaking

Post by baggo »

I've successfully cured small weeps from tubes and stays with Loctite 290 which is a thin wicking grade of threadlocker. Just put some on the leaking area after drying and cleaning and let it soak in. It helps if you can pull a vacuum inside the boiler to help draw the Loctite into the crack.

We had a similar problem with my brothers Forney that has a steel boiler with copper tubes silver soldered in. Not the best combination. A couple of the tubes on the front tubeplate started leaking, possibly because the solder had cracked or not done correctly in the beginning. Used the 290 and it's been fine for the last few years.

Not my idea, I got it from Michael Guy's website.

John
Secretary of The National 2½" Gauge Association
Member of North West Liecestershire SME

http://www.modeng.johnbaguley.info
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