Condensation

[Emfinger]

I was thinking that my water was foaming, but now I think the problem is condensation. I get a lot of water out of the smokestack and it kind of sucks.
Can I route the exhaust out of the bottom of the smoke box? Well I know I can, but should I?
Thank yyou
Tom

[FLSTEAM]

Actually every steam engine will give you a bath until the pipes and cylinders warm up. Only takes a few seconds.

John B.

[BClemens]

And if you burn coal that condensation is black! Fun, fun!! I always wear a white shirt when I run...

[Emfinger]

In that few seconds my boiler looks like crap

[LVRR2095]

In that few seconds my boiler looks like crap

If a little dirt bothers you, a steam locomotive may not be your best idea.

[Emfinger]

I prefer my equipment to look better than that. It isn't about me !

[jcbrock]

1. Fire up

2. Move off bay to running line with cylinder cocks open.

3. Slightly apply brakes

4. Put valve gear in reverse

5. Open the throttle quickly

6. Apply the brakes fully and shut the throttle

7. Watch cloud of goop fall onto track in front of engine

8. Repeat 3 through 7 until the exhaust dries up.

If you do it right, your boiler should look like this:

[LVRR2095]

Seriously, there is a way to keep your locomotive from burping a mess all over your locomotive.
Sadly I never see anyone properly prepare to run after steaming up. The procedure I use is one I learned when operating full sized locomotives. As a previous poster mentioned, the cylinders and steam delivery pipes need to be warmed. The trick is to warm them BEFORE you move the locomotive. After you are steamed up and ready to move, put the reverser into either full forward or reverse. Slightly crack the throttle and let steam flow through the cylinder drains. After a while close the throttle, put the Johnson bar to the opposite direction and crack the throttle again. Repeat until the cylinders are hot to the touch. Then you can slowly leave the steaming bays with a clean locomotive. In your first post you mentioned whether it would work to direct the exhaust to the bottom of the smoke box. You need to know that the smoke stack is a vital part of the drafting and taking it out of the system will kill the vacuum that provides the draft to the fire. Warm your cylinders before you move and you will be able to stay clean and dry.
Keith

[Emfinger]

This is an oil burner and I control the draft with the blower. In fact if I open the throttle to quickly the draft sucks out the flame. With a rock burner more draft when you open the throttle is perfect, one advantage of burning rocks. Not so much with an oil eater.
I'll try to clear and heat the system before trying to hit the main line, thank you.

[Steggy]

If a little dirt bothers you, a steam locomotive may not be your best idea.

Post of the day!

[kcameron]

I've known some people who have a bent pipe they stick in or over the stack for pulling away from the steaming bay. It directs it 'over the side' and they take it off after a little while and things are running drier. Many view it as a lazy way to avoid the mess instead of the other ways to work around it.

[Gra2472]

Burping the engine was one of my fathers favorite parts about being an engineer at the Billy Jones Wild Cat railroad back in the 1980's. I remember riding on the engine with him when he would gingerly coax the #2 out to the end of the tail track by the field. Then, with a grin and the safeties sizzling he would put the engine in reverse, apply some brakes, and we would roar back to the engine-house. Often, huge gobs of oil and water would spray out of the stack into the tree overhanging the track. The 2-spot put on a great show. Sometimes we would make more than one "trip." I'm pretty sure that was just for fun. When he was done, we would go get the train out of the car barn, wipe the 2-spot down, and start the work day. Interestingly, the track was rather slippery when we pulled the cars out. I wonder why.... Fun memories.