This is my workbench now, what can I do to improve it?

[shild]

Since these pictures were taken I have drilled and reamed the first axlebox and now I have to run the other three through the same process. Once that's done, I have to do the rest of the steps in the outline.

Maybe this will answer some of your questions.

Richard Trounce.

Good you made progress. Still need slots on both sides to fit in the frame right? Did they start out as roundstock. Been thinking about how I'm going to be doing my axles boxes when it's time.

[shild]

Trying to get more things a live steamer would need. I need to make a dedicated wheel arbor to do all the wheels don't I? Cut off a piece of round stock for that. While at the bandsaw I cut off a piece of square stock to build a head stop because this mill/drill did not come with a head stop or quill stop. Maybe I should have cut it off so it was flush with the front of the mill and not the flanges where the head bolts on? Also borrowed a friends rotary table but mounting holes are too small for my t-nut bolts, width is a little too wide for my mills t-slots and I do not own the smaller t-nuts that mount something onto it. How am I going to use this?

[pete]

Just machine a set of tee nuts to fit your table slots, then drill/tap for the size of bolts the rotary table uses. Just be careful NOT to tap right through the tee nuts. You want the bolt threads to jam against the incomplete thread so your not jacking the tee nut up against the tee slots upper lips. You can break the edge of the table slot out if you get heavy handed. Fully threaded nuts can be used if your 100% sure the bolt length is short enough to go fully tight without protruding through the tee nut. It seems sometimes half of even having a home shop is making adapters to make accessories fit what you already have. I keep a couple lengths of bar stock around that's already been machined to fit my BP clones tee slots. If I need to bolt something new to the table that I don't already have the pre made hardware for I just cut what I need off and drill/tap to what ever I need.

[NP317]

Shild:
Every one of your questions about machining procedures, whether using castings or bulk stock, are answered in the Kozo books.
Complete with drawings illustrating all operations. Simple and clear descriptions.
Get one or more of those Kozo locomotive construction books and start studying them.
https://secure.villagepress.com/store/i ... l/item/844
https://secure.villagepress.com/store/i ... /item/1673

This will be far more efficient for you than asking your questions here. Yes answers are available here,
but the books are so much better at conveying the knowledge. And you would own them for continued reference.
These books have been an invaluable life-long reference for my machining work.
Just saying'.
RussN

[shild]

Just machine a set of tee nuts to fit your table slots, then drill/tap for the size of bolts the rotary table uses. Just be careful NOT to tap right through the tee nuts. You want the bolt threads to jam against the incomplete thread so your not jacking the tee nut up against the tee slots upper lips. You can break the edge of the table slot out if you get heavy handed. Fully threaded nuts can be used if your 100% sure the bolt length is short enough to go fully tight without protruding through the tee nut. It seems sometimes half of even having a home shop is making adapters to make accessories fit what you already have. I keep a couple lengths of bar stock around that's already been machined to fit my BP clones tee slots. If I need to bolt something new to the table that I don't already have the pre made hardware for I just cut what I need off and drill/tap to what ever I need.

Might have to do that. By the way, I'm thinking about getting this integrated R8 drill chuck. Looks like it sacrifices some maximum size in order to be even shorter. Probably ideal for doing most of the work on a 3/4" scale loco isn't it? https://www.ebay.com/itm/R-8-APU13-7-16 ... SwKx9es9TJ

[shild]

Shild:
Every one of your questions about machining procedures, whether using castings or bulk stock, are answered in the Kozo books.
Complete with drawings illustrating all operations. Simple and clear descriptions.
Get one or more of those Kozo locomotive construction books and start studying them.
https://secure.villagepress.com/store/i ... l/item/844
https://secure.villagepress.com/store/i ... /item/1673

This will be far more efficient for you than asking your questions here. Yes answers are available here,
but the books are so much better at conveying the knowledge. And you would own them for continued reference.
These books have been an invaluable life-long reference for my machining work.
Just saying'.

Thanks Russ. I've been looking at the one for the Virginia 4-4-0. I believe the book for the Raritan is on its way.

[milwiron]

If your mill table has room use your step blocks and strap clamps to hold the rotary table. I believe I saw a step block set in one of your photos.
Denny

[shild]

Thanks Denny, thanks for the replies everyone. Hope I didn't make a bad move but I ordered this integrated keyless drill chuck. Once it arrives, if I like it I might get a mt2 version for my tailstock. https://www.ebay.com/itm/R8-Ball-Bearin ... 2749.l2649

[Bill Shields]

Do not plan on using that chuck for anything except drilling. They are not a substitute for holding a milling cutter

[milwiron]

As Bill says, never overload your keyless chuck (s) with end mills or S&D drill bits. There's nothing more heartbreaking than watching a really expensive keyless chuck getting "unlocked" with a pipe wrench.

[RET]

Hi shild,

You were asking about how to use a rotary table. They are not something you need every day, but they do come in handy for a lot of things. The one I have is 10" and weighs 100 pounds so it sits permanently on one end of the Bridgeport table. It is made in Taiwan (Vertex) and I bought it new a long time ago. I bought it new, because that way I knew it would be accurate. When I want to use it, I swing the head over to the left, otherwise the head is centered more so I can either clamp things to the table or use the mill vise which is to the right of the rotary table.

I would recommend that you do what I did and make an adapter plate with the same spindle thread that is on the lathe so you can mount the lathe chuck that holds whatever part you may be working on. This way you don't lose alignment when transferring a partially completed part from one machine to the other.

This shows the adapter plate and the 5C chuck transferred from the lathe

The above illustrates what I'm saying.

Big Boy Centering device parts.

The finished centering device pieces for Big Boy before assembly. Any time you spend doing this isn't wasted, you continually reap the benefits down the road.

As my friend Carrdo says, you spend the first half of your life building the shop and the second half building the models. Both of us have "been there, done that" and we both enjoy the journey.

Richard Trounce.

[Greg_Lewis]

...

As my friend Carrdo says, you spend the first half of your life building the shop and the second half building the models.
...

Yup. Until you need a fixture in order to make a part. But in order to make the fixture, you need a fixture. But in order to make that, you need a tool you don't have. You could make that tool, but to do so you'd need a fixture......