1” scale rivets
Re: 1” scale rivets
Has anyone seen glued on rivet heads?
I'm fixing up an old flat car and the prior owner (now passed) seems to have used some sort of little dots that he glued to the wood forming the sides of the car. They look really nice, but there are a few missing here and there and I'd like to fill in the gaps in the pattern. The wood for the sides in some places is only a 1/8" thick sort of sheet, very thin! The idea of using push pins or similar would leave a dangerous ragged edge on the inside even if clipped short.
The other idea would be removing them all as they are not that noticeable from any distance. But when you are close enough, it is a nice detail.
I'm fixing up an old flat car and the prior owner (now passed) seems to have used some sort of little dots that he glued to the wood forming the sides of the car. They look really nice, but there are a few missing here and there and I'd like to fill in the gaps in the pattern. The wood for the sides in some places is only a 1/8" thick sort of sheet, very thin! The idea of using push pins or similar would leave a dangerous ragged edge on the inside even if clipped short.
The other idea would be removing them all as they are not that noticeable from any distance. But when you are close enough, it is a nice detail.
-ken cameron
Syracuse Model Railroad Club http://www.SyracuseModelRr.org/
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mailto: kcameron@twcny.rr.com
In the Upstate New York US area of the world
Syracuse Model Railroad Club http://www.SyracuseModelRr.org/
CNY Modelers http://www.cnymod.com/
Finger Lakes Live Steamers http://www.fingerlakeslivesteamers.org/
Member JMRI Developer Team http://www.jmri.org/
mailto: kcameron@twcny.rr.com
In the Upstate New York US area of the world
Re: 1” scale rivets
You could use the existing rivet heads to make a silicone mold(s) and cast up a bunch of replacements: https://www.alumilite.com/resins/mini-casting-kit/
Re: 1” scale rivets
Here is a chart for Drive Screws.
They show smallest as #00, you really need tweezers to manipulate that size.
https://www.rivetsonline.com/drive-screws#1
They show smallest as #00, you really need tweezers to manipulate that size.
https://www.rivetsonline.com/drive-screws#1
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Re: 1” scale rivets
This looks like an easy and quick replacement to a rivet repair I have coming up.
So, what is the proper method to install “drive screws”? I assume you beat them home with a ball Peen hammer.
But are there shaft length requirements per thickness of material? And How much or how little do you want to stick thru the backside?
Also is there a rule of thumb for hole size, similar to drill ID and tap???
Thanks much,
Glenn
So, what is the proper method to install “drive screws”? I assume you beat them home with a ball Peen hammer.
But are there shaft length requirements per thickness of material? And How much or how little do you want to stick thru the backside?
Also is there a rule of thumb for hole size, similar to drill ID and tap???
Thanks much,
Glenn
Moderator - Grand Scale Forum
Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge
Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge
Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
Re: 1” scale rivets
I have used many many drive screws on projects, but hardly ever for really keeping materials together.
I have used them as decoration on many projects.
For those small drive screws,it just takes a lite strike with a small hammer.
If you look at the video of the TurnTable (actually two) that I constructed, you can see where I'm putting in drive screws, by the hundreds!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cu7Cou5zVi0
I have used them as decoration on many projects.
For those small drive screws,it just takes a lite strike with a small hammer.
If you look at the video of the TurnTable (actually two) that I constructed, you can see where I'm putting in drive screws, by the hundreds!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cu7Cou5zVi0
- Dick_Morris
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Re: 1” scale rivets
I used SS drive screws on my SS tender along with an industrial adhesive. The drive rivets are pretty hard, but I made a brass rivet set to protect the heads and used a bucking bar on the back side to keep from bending the sheet metal and to ensure the two layers pulled up tightly. There are dimension specs for the various sizes of drive screw in the Machinist's Handbook which probably include the hole size.
Re: 1” scale rivets
Ken,
Not sure how many you need to replace, but what about getting some half round beads at a craft store to glue in place and paint? Or get some wood dowel and make some up?
Joe
Not sure how many you need to replace, but what about getting some half round beads at a craft store to glue in place and paint? Or get some wood dowel and make some up?
Joe
Joe Kahan
C.E.O. Paradise and Warm Springs Railway
GE 23T Box Cab
Allen Chloe Project
M.O.W. Highrailer project
C.E.O. Paradise and Warm Springs Railway
GE 23T Box Cab
Allen Chloe Project
M.O.W. Highrailer project
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Re: 1” scale rivets
not insurmountable , Buy regular Copper rivets - may need to experiment with size.
Either bore a cone in a piece of 1/2' Drill-Rod or Sharpen a 3/16 drill so it has a 90 degree Convex shape. Use it to drill the end of the rod.
Heat treat the rod and then "upset" the round heads into cones. I would have a angle iron slightly thinner than the length of the rivet with multiple holes
. mount the angle in the vice , drop in the rivets and then smack them . Having the leg of the angle in the vise gives rigidity and having the other leg thinner allows easy ejection of the reformed rivet .
Rich
Edit
Would not hurt to Preheat the rivets to 1200 degrees to make them really soft.
Aluminum Rivets may be even easier to form , and the preheat there is about 600
- Greg_Lewis
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Re: 1” scale rivets
Rich_Carlstedt wrote: ↑Sat Apr 24, 2021 6:12 pmnot insurmountable , Buy regular Copper rivets - may need to experiment with size.
Either bore a cone in a piece of 1/2' Drill-Rod or Sharpen a 3/16 drill so it has a 90 degree Convex shape. Use it to drill the end of the rod.
Heat treat the rod and then "upset" the round heads into cones. I would have a angle iron slightly thinner than the length of the rivet with multiple holes
. mount the angle in the vice , drop in the rivets and then smack them . Having the leg of the angle in the vise gives rigidity and having the other leg thinner allows easy ejection of the reformed rivet .
Rich
Edit
Would not hurt to Preheat the rivets to 1200 degrees to make them really soft.
Aluminum Rivets may be even easier to form , and the preheat there is about 600
I made some rivets in a similar way. Used a round end mill to make the head die, used copper electrical wire for the bodies. Drilled a hole in somethingorother to hold the body when I formed the head by whacking the die down with a hammer. Didn't need to heat treat the die as steel against soft copper is certainly going to last for as long as I needed it. I think it took me longer to make the head die and the body holder than it did to whack the dozen or so rivets I needed.
Greg Lewis, Prop.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Re: 1” scale rivets
Or... Purchase rivets with the correct head diameter.
https://www.rivetsonline.com
Drill a corresponding hole for the shank, which you will trim to the correct length to not stick out the other side. (Your specification)
Glue them in place.
Paint. Play.
RussN
https://www.rivetsonline.com
Drill a corresponding hole for the shank, which you will trim to the correct length to not stick out the other side. (Your specification)
Glue them in place.
Paint. Play.
RussN
Re: 1” scale rivets
I've used a lot of drive screws over the years and even though they're very hard, if you don't get the pilot hole just right they might need to be hit a pretty stiff whack to drive them home and that WILL put a flat spot on the head. So I do as Dick has suggested, make a sacrificial brass set. Sometimes that amounts to only a strip of sheet brass or copper, anything to protect the head.Dick_Morris wrote: ↑Sat Apr 24, 2021 5:06 pmThe drive rivets are pretty hard, but I made a brass rivet set to protect the heads
GWRdriver
Nashville TN
Nashville TN
- johnpenn74
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Re: 1” scale rivets
Why fake it?...Just use real steel rivets. People screw it up because they dont get a real gun.
John Pennington
Logging meets that actually move logs
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Clishay
4 Western Wheeled Scraper NG Dump Cars
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Logging meets that actually move logs
Project
2 Mich-Cal Shays
Allen 4-4-0 Narrow Gauge Conversion
Two Reading A5a Camelback 0-4-0
USRA 0-6-0
Clishay
4 Western Wheeled Scraper NG Dump Cars
N&W 4-8-2
ICM 2-10-2
4 Modern Stake Cars
L&N Caboose
4 Big Four Conversion Gondolas
Like I'm actually gonna build all this stuff