blind driver

[hoppercar]

had some damage done to the flange, on the second driver, of a mikado, when the drivers would lateral in the frame, for a curve..... the flange was rubbing, on a nut, that bolts the brake hanger bracket to the frame. nut, will be removed, hole countersunk for a flat head screw, and a nut put on inside of frame. first thought, was to replace wheel casting, ...then thought about tires,...but looking at it...i think my least amount of down time, would simply be, put the driver set between centers, then turn the flange off, and make it a blind set ?....this is the second set back from the cylinder block.

[NP317]

Sounds feasible to have the 2nd driver set blind.

Certainly easier that trying to create systems and software for blind automobile drivers...
RN

[Cary Stewart]

I believe that the blind drivers had the same tread taper as the flanged drivers. I believe that it helps centering.
Cary

[cbrew]

is the flange damage on the back of the flange? if so, i would not worry about it and run it.
attached is the thread profile i used on my ten wheeler with a center blind drivers

[hoppercar]

yes, the damage is to the back side of the flange, wear it was rubbing on a nut

[STRR]

I agree with cbrew. If the damage is NOT affecting the operation, run it as it is. The only one who will know is you. If it IS affecting the operation, then I would machine the flange off as in cbrew's diagram and run it blind. Many locomotives had blind drivers for shorter radius curves.

Good Luck,
Terry

[cbrew]

Being number 2 driver, i can not see it effecting anything, I had the rear driver rub on a boiler stay on the allen american when i broke a bolt on the front leaf spring, grinding the flange thin, it ran that way for 3 years before it was time to shoe the old gal.
I say run it, and when its time,, shoe them all

[Fender]

I agree with running it as is. Another option besides a blind driver is to reduce the width and depth of the flange on the middle driver(s). This was sometimes done to increase the lateral motion on these drivers, yet retain some flange. There is a photo of such an arrangement in a book on Colorado narrow gauge, where the different flanges are clearly seen. Unfortunately, the loco has derailed and is laying on its side!

[SZuiderveen]

I agree with running it as is. Another option besides a blind driver is to reduce the width and depth of the flange on the middle driver(s). This was sometimes done to increase the lateral motion on these drivers, yet retain some flange. There is a photo of such an arrangement in a book on Colorado narrow gauge, where the different flanges are clearly seen. Unfortunately, the loco has derailed and is laying on its side!

#12 at Georgetown Loop has this arrangement

[Bill Shields]

This may seem obvious to some...but...

just be aware of the possibility of a standard width tire with no flange CAN fall inside a rail on a tight (loose) turn.

Many prototypes had 'wider than normal' tires where blind drivers were used...just to help prevent such an occurrence.

[NP317]

[snip]

Many prototypes had 'wider than normal' tires where blind drivers were used...just to help prevent such an occurrence.

That is certainly the case with the full-sized logging locomotives I have operated.
RN

[cbrew]

the extra "width" of the thread gained with the missing flange has proven to more then enough to run my ten wheeler around a 25 foot radius.
i wouldn't worry too much about that unless you plan on removing the flange on both middle axles.