Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4

[Andy R]

Charlie,
You wrote: "Wonderful hobby, in that it takes you places you have never been."
Amen to that brother.
Take it easy to fully recover from Covid.
Regards,
Andy

[Pipescs]

currently it is connected to the turret. I do see a pressure drop anytime I open a valve. It will get moved to the boiler as I continue to hang piping.

I am considering running it off a T that the air vent for the water glass uses.

[NP317]

currently it is connected to the turret. I do see a pressure drop anytime I open a valve. It will get moved to the boiler as I continue to hang piping.

I am considering running it off a T that the air vent for the water glass uses.

I do not understand "...T that the air vent for the water glass uses."
Are you referring to the top steam connection of the water glass to the boiler top?
Thanks.
RussN

[Pipescs]

yes I was but that has changed. I am leaving it where it is until I get past a first steam test to see how the fire draws using the stack and blower I have. Once a few things are ironed out I will then take time to see where all the controls and gauges are going to end up. A lot will depend on how I sit and where the gauges need to go so that I can reach and see everything while I am running it.

In the mean time, as I get ready to put water in the boiler for the first time. What are recommendations on first firing? I understand welding flux and trash in the boiler can cause issues.

[Berkman]

You will likely experience foaming. First order would be making sure injectors and safety valves are working correctly as steam is raised.

Might need to do a boiler wash after the first several runs and blow down more than normal.

[Pipescs]

Might need to do a boiler wash after the first several runs and blow down more than normal.

The plan is to roll it out the shop door on it's stand. fill it and fire it stationary. I thought I would let it go up to 40 psi or so, let the fire go out and blow it down to flush the trash out couple of times. Testing the injectors and the blowers ability to draw a draft are primary thoughts right now.

If all this works then I will take it to MSLS on a quite weekday (when no one is there) to try and run it around the lower loop.

[Pipescs]

Might need to do a boiler wash after the first several runs and blow down more than normal.

I just re read this and thought I would ask you to explain what is entailed in a Boiler Wash?

[Berkman]

On a full size locomotive a boiler wash is mandated every 30 service days, but can be performed more often if needed based on poor quality water or other needs.

The practice involves removing all washout plugs on a locomotive and "washing the internals". Often on full sized locomotives this was done using a lance and sticking it in the various washout plugs, and through the steam dome etc to really wash all the impurities or any buildup out of the boiler.

On models, it's basically just opening up what washout plugs are easy to remove and blowdowns, then flushing out the boiler as best is possible. Typically an emphasis is placed on removing any build up around the tubes and certainly the mud ring. The more washout plugs you have around the corners of the mud ring the better you can keep it cleaned out.

For a steel boiler with copper flues, you could use vinegar and let it sit for 6 hrs or so then flush it out. Over the years, you might be surprised what it will remove. Some people use a diluted muriatic acid then flush back with baking soda to prevent further eating by the acid, but vinegar seems safer. I can't imagine needing to do this more than once a year on our models unless you run all the time or with really awful water.

Some have had good success following the final day of running at a weekend meet of removing a safety valve, then leaving the blow downs open following your standard "blowdown at 30 psi etc" practice. This lets moisture out of the "top" of the boiler and helps it to dry as the boiler cools down.

In your scenario this additional flushing out of the boiler could help with any foaming issues you might experience with a new boiler.

[Pipescs]

Thank you for the input.

I am down sick again so it will be delayed. I have all the parts in now to, temporarily, install the injectors using my wooden, mock up, tank.

I am hoping in October to be able to steam it up at the track and run around the lower loop. Funny to say but I believe I am at the half way mark of finishing this locomotive.

You have now idea of what you are getting into when you start something like this.

[SZuiderveen]

Charlie,

When we tested J. Tokar’s boiler, we put an overflow pipe on a safety valve outlet on the dome, filled boiler to the top with water, and boiled it out with a fire. Then we washed it out well, installed the safeties, and test fired. Your mileage may vary, but you probably will have a little bit of foaming the first couple of fires.

Someone above recommended that for our boiler washes you take out as many plugs as are easy to remove. Just to let everyone know, on the full size you must remove every washout plug, failure to do so is a violation of federal regulations.

Steve

[Berkman]

Steve,
Very good point, but no one in the 7.5 gauge hobby follows FRA steam guidelines. Or else would need to follow the 30 day cycles, 1472, etc etc etc. all of which make little sense with our models. For better or worse there are several standard gauge and 3ft gauge lines in theme parks etc that are not required to follow FRA standards.

Another interesting point is that FRA requires the annual hydro to 1.25X operating pressure not the 1.5x or 2x that is common in the hobby, and this is often done with "warm" water.

[Pipescs]

Thanks guys, Sadly I am not in the shop today, I have come down with pneumonia and am currently banned from the shop by the wife. Doc retested me for COVID with a neg results. Thinks this may be a spin off of the case I had earlier in the month.