2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
Moderator: Harold_V
Re: 2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
Sure enjoying my new collet chuck. These are crank pins. When I bought the castings for the loco Tom had a set of drivers fully machined so these pins will be installed with locktite . As Tristan pointed out on a previous post checking rough clearance of crank pin to crosshead guides is going to hit or very close. The plan is to minimize front pin length with in reason then it appears to affect the guide behind the support so I might be able to thin or notch. Or maybe move the bore center out just a bit. But for now move forward with the pins so I can key the axle shafts and get it up on the drivers. I've got most all PVQ plates and pipe here or on the way.
No problems just solutions.
Re: 2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
"When I bought the castings for the loco Tom had a set of drivers fully machined so these pins will be installed with locktite"
What not machined for a press fit?
RussN
What not machined for a press fit?
RussN
Re: 2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
The crank pin holes and main pin were bored .002" over. I assume for loctite. I ordered tgp shaft to make pins. I know there has been talk about this subject before. If I had machined the drivers I would have under sized pin hole enough for a shoulder. To make a shoulder now it would be proud of bearing surface. That might cause more issues with the front pin clearance.
Would like opinions on loctite for this application
Thanks Jim
Would like opinions on loctite for this application
Thanks Jim
No problems just solutions.
Re: 2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
Jim:
Thank you for explaining.
RussN
Thank you for explaining.
RussN
Re: 2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
Jumped over to the rear axle today for cutting keys . Used the universal head to index 90 degrees. I thought about how to hold the axle and get all keys. Front and rear axle not a problem but the middle axle has the eccentrics. So I figure I can get 3 out of 4 then will have to rotate 90 to get other.
No problems just solutions.
- Greg_Lewis
- Posts: 3015
- Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 2:44 pm
- Location: Fresno, CA
Re: 2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
While I have not used Loctite for crank pins, I don't see why it would not work. Some folks here are strenuously opposed to Loctite but it is fine when the correct type is chosen and the directions are followed. I have used Loctite for retaining parts and have never had a failure when picking the correct product and following the directions exactly.
Here is a link to their website on retaining compounds:
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/ ... ounds.html
and below is a copy of a page from an old catalog from my file. Note that the minimum shear strength of the listed products is 3000 lbs. I doubt crank pins would ever see that.
Greg Lewis, Prop.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Re: 2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
Thanks Greg for your input . This must be a embrace the technology moment but still with being a reciprocating part bothers me. Thank Jim
No problems just solutions.
- Greg_Lewis
- Posts: 3015
- Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 2:44 pm
- Location: Fresno, CA
Re: 2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
Agreed. I would still go for a press fit if at all possible.
Greg Lewis, Prop.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Re: 2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
I disassembled all of the current completed frame parts and painted them then fabed up a loco stand .
No problems just solutions.
Re: 2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
Good progress.
I suggest you should consider steel vertical support legs for the loco stand instead of those nice-looking wood ones.
RussN
I suggest you should consider steel vertical support legs for the loco stand instead of those nice-looking wood ones.
RussN