3/4" Scale J1e
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- Dick_Morris
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- Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 2:09 pm
- Location: Anchorage, AK
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Amazing!
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3866
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
Thank you Dick Morris. Here is something you might like. As I have touched on before, I like to hide an injector inside the dummy stoker engine like we have in this first snappy. Here we have the engine fitted up under the cab. The injector delivery line coming out from underneath will represent the lower steam line from the reversing valve. Here is a photo of the prototype stoker engine and reversing valve. Sometimes the stoker would jam. This was usually due to some foreign object in the auger or elevator. So this valve reversed the ports, and would allow the engine to be run in reverse to clear the obstruction . The pipe with the union ell coming from the bottom of the reversing valve to the left is the exhaust steam pipe to the front of the locomotive. On the model this will be the injector delivery pipe. The model reversing valve will contain the check valve for the delivery pipe. Here is a drawing of the reversing valve. Here is a start on the poppets for the check valve. I only need one for now but will be needing more later so will be making four.
Thank you Dick Morris. Here is something you might like. As I have touched on before, I like to hide an injector inside the dummy stoker engine like we have in this first snappy. Here we have the engine fitted up under the cab. The injector delivery line coming out from underneath will represent the lower steam line from the reversing valve. Here is a photo of the prototype stoker engine and reversing valve. Sometimes the stoker would jam. This was usually due to some foreign object in the auger or elevator. So this valve reversed the ports, and would allow the engine to be run in reverse to clear the obstruction . The pipe with the union ell coming from the bottom of the reversing valve to the left is the exhaust steam pipe to the front of the locomotive. On the model this will be the injector delivery pipe. The model reversing valve will contain the check valve for the delivery pipe. Here is a drawing of the reversing valve. Here is a start on the poppets for the check valve. I only need one for now but will be needing more later so will be making four.
Last edited by JBodenmann on Fri Jul 01, 2022 11:25 pm, edited 5 times in total.
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3866
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Here are the poppets with the O rings fitted on.
Jack
I will usually make this sort of check valve so that gravity holds the poppet against the seat. In this instance the poppet will have to be upside down so that a small spring will hold the poppet up against the seat at least until pressure holds it against the seat. Some arrangement had to be made to hold the spring in place, and to limit the travel of the poppet to about .020". It also had to allow the water to pass by. The small part on the left will fit in the larger part on the right. This small part will locate the spring and limit the travel of the poppet. It will also let water pass through. The larger part is threaded 5/16-40 and will fit in the bottom of the reversing valve. It is threaded 5/32 MPT out the bottom.
Here is the bottom connection with the spring locator and spring in place. As tiny springs like this one have a way of vanishing into thin air, a small string or thread is fed through the spring. It has a large paper tag on the end of the string. I learned this one the hard way
Here the bottom connection, spring, and poppet have been mocked up just for a look.
Here are all the parts at this time. On the left is the start of the main body. As you will see later, I have had to take some liberties with where lower connection to the stoker engine enters the reversing valve. It had to be moved up on the reversing valve to allow enough room for the poppet. It will for the most part look right. It will also have to be a bit oversize in both height and diameter.
No shortage of things to do!Jack
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3866
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- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
As this check valve is basically upside down and gravity can't be used to hold the poppet against the seat, some small springs were needed. I have a pretty extensive assortment of springs in the stash but nothing suitable. I needed stainless springs with an OD. of 5/32" and a length of .250" with a wire thickness if .008". Century spring had what I needed. 25 springs were $4.20 ea. 50 springs were $2.00 each. I guess they were going to get $100.00 from me no matter what. I'm not complaining. I was just happy that they had what I wanted. God Bless America.
Jack
As this check valve is basically upside down and gravity can't be used to hold the poppet against the seat, some small springs were needed. I have a pretty extensive assortment of springs in the stash but nothing suitable. I needed stainless springs with an OD. of 5/32" and a length of .250" with a wire thickness if .008". Century spring had what I needed. 25 springs were $4.20 ea. 50 springs were $2.00 each. I guess they were going to get $100.00 from me no matter what. I'm not complaining. I was just happy that they had what I wanted. God Bless America.
Jack
- Bill Shields
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Don't forget to remove the thread...been there forgotten to do that
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3866
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- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
Time to start the tender. The first J1's had a built up tender frame, with the tank set on top. The later tenders had a cast steel one piece water bottom tender. These tenders utilized the cast tender frame as the bottom of the water space. The tank sides and ends were riveted directly to this frame. This is what I will be building. Here is a good photo showing the rivet detail quite nicely. Notice the double staggered row of rivets joining the bottom of the tank side to the cast water bottom tender frame. Lots of other cool goodies to make. Ladders, grab irons, and what I think may be a radio box. Notice the steel plate hanging down under the coupler. That's a splash shield for when scooping water. Here is a drawing of the coal gates at the front of the coal space. Lots of fun little baloney to make. Doors, hinges, latches, and more. Too much fun! Here is a start on the first piece. Just a rusty length of 3/16" x 3/4" hot rolled. And here is is after cleaning up. It was cut down to 3/16" x 5/8", and a rabbet cut. As I won't actually be using the frame for the bottom of the water space this was needed. It will be apparent why when the tank is started. Also in the photo is one of the tender frame corners. And lastly a photo of the start of the spring loaded buffer housing. This along with the drawbar pockets will be silver soldered together as a sub assembly and then welded to the rest of the frame. The coupler pocket at the rear of the frame will also be made in a similar fashion. See You In The Funny Pages...
Jack
Time to start the tender. The first J1's had a built up tender frame, with the tank set on top. The later tenders had a cast steel one piece water bottom tender. These tenders utilized the cast tender frame as the bottom of the water space. The tank sides and ends were riveted directly to this frame. This is what I will be building. Here is a good photo showing the rivet detail quite nicely. Notice the double staggered row of rivets joining the bottom of the tank side to the cast water bottom tender frame. Lots of other cool goodies to make. Ladders, grab irons, and what I think may be a radio box. Notice the steel plate hanging down under the coupler. That's a splash shield for when scooping water. Here is a drawing of the coal gates at the front of the coal space. Lots of fun little baloney to make. Doors, hinges, latches, and more. Too much fun! Here is a start on the first piece. Just a rusty length of 3/16" x 3/4" hot rolled. And here is is after cleaning up. It was cut down to 3/16" x 5/8", and a rabbet cut. As I won't actually be using the frame for the bottom of the water space this was needed. It will be apparent why when the tank is started. Also in the photo is one of the tender frame corners. And lastly a photo of the start of the spring loaded buffer housing. This along with the drawbar pockets will be silver soldered together as a sub assembly and then welded to the rest of the frame. The coupler pocket at the rear of the frame will also be made in a similar fashion. See You In The Funny Pages...
Jack
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Gorgeous work as usual Jack, I don't know if this will help you out any (or if you knew) but Hudson tender for #5213 still exists in Steamtown..
It's been converted into a water (oil?) car, but the frame/trucks seem to be untouched..
John
It's been converted into a water (oil?) car, but the frame/trucks seem to be untouched..
John
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3866
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
Thanks John, do you know what sort of frame it has? Separate, or water bottom?
Jack
Thanks John, do you know what sort of frame it has? Separate, or water bottom?
Jack
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Sorry Jack, I do not know..? Maybe someone else here has some pictures..?JBodenmann wrote: ↑Wed Jul 20, 2022 9:18 am Hello My Friends
Thanks John, do you know what sort of frame it has? Separate, or water bottom?
Jack
John
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- Location: Princeton, NJ
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Here are some fairly recent pics. I was mainly interested in the trucks so focused on that
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fjhmnc8xy8kw ... Z9Q8a?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fjhmnc8xy8kw ... Z9Q8a?dl=0
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
i remember when that was brand spanking new when harold crouch donated it to steamtown. it had just gotten it's paint job when harold had it. at least thats what i heard was that he owned it. unless anyone else that knew harold better has better info.