3/4" Scale J1e

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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
Here is how the lettering was done. These are the smallest letters that are available as far as I know, and are 3/32" tall. Actually way too large for the journal box lid but they are what was laying around. I was not able to letter the parts here as the prototype was, but go with what you got! I just wanted some lettering. Here you can see that they needed a bit of clean up. This was done by first putting on the old Optivisor, holding them with tweezers, and then hitting them with a small jewelers file.
Lettering1.jpeg
And here they are in place. As stated I just wanted some lettering. They just fit, but look OK.
Lettering2.jpeg
I would like to post some info on mold making, but my friend showed me some of his hard earned secrets and asked me not to divulge them. I have showed you a little over time but that is about all I can reveal. There are some pretty good videos on line and they would give you enough info to get started.
Happy Model Building
Jack
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Bill Shields
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by Bill Shields »

a resin 3d printer should be able to make the letters the size you need...

put them all on a backing strip (as printed) and glue on as needed...
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
If I had a resin printer...and knew how to program it...🤪 I understand glue, and files and such. That's my comfort zone. But now that you mention it, I have some brilliant young friends...
Jack
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Bill Shields
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by Bill Shields »

You could probably print the entire cover, letters and all.

Hope you are not including me in the brilliant and young category.

Taint neither...
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My friends
I enjoy Making things like this journal box. When I say "a delightful little puzzle", I really mean it. It's a game. How do I make this? Making shapes, and then sticking them together. The fact that I am making a master to pull a mold from makes it easier. I can use brass, plastic, wood, soft solder, glue, putty, and paint. The journal box is not precisely correct. The hinge is a bit oversize, so is the lettering. Who cares...it's a pretty good representation. Perfect, is the enemy of done. Having fun is the important part.
Jack
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Bill Shields
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by Bill Shields »

:mrgreen:

how were the OVERSIZE letters originally made?

stamp in to a piece of wood and pour lead in?
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
I think the letters used were die cast. They are from an outfit in England called John Burns. The 3/32" letters used are the smallest they have.
Jack
thej611
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by thej611 »

Yes you are correct you can do them with a resin printer . Have been doing it for a year of more with mine . I have been doing all my drawings in solidworks full scale then reducing to the size I need. Most of what I do is for G scale engines but you can do what ever size you want . Having a lot of fun drawing and printing these . Currently working on snifer valves for the restoration of LS&I 21 here in wisconsin. Love this this site the work being done here is amazing !
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Dick_Morris
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by Dick_Morris »

Nice 3D models!
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
Very nice parts. It doesn't matter how you make things, the end result is all that's important.
Jack
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
Pretty cool parts from the resin printer. I admire the computer skills required to make printed parts. I haven't worked on the Hudson for a while. I spent all of last week right on into Sunday finishing up some masters and making molds. There were masters for things I want to use on Jim's Berk., and some for the Hudson. Here are the waxes for the journal boxes, and pedestal liners for one pair of commonwealth trucks. 12 axle boxes, 12 lids, 12 hinges, 12 snap shut levers, 12 backs, 12 bearings, and 24 pedestal liners. Once these castings come back from the foundry I can assemble the trucks and start on the spring rigging and then the brake rigging. No printed parts, just mostly brass and solder. But like I have said before, it's not how you get there, it's the end result that matters. Get R' Done
Waxes.jpeg
Jack
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
Now that the waxes for the journal boxes and pedestal liners are at the foundry it's time to start the spring rigging. I will be using.025" bronze spring material for the leaf springs. Many of the leaves will be .025" delrin. All will be 1/4" wide. If they were made entirely from bronze they would be far too stiff. I will fiddle around with them, substituting delrin until they have the stiffness wanted. Then there are the equalizers and links. Prototypical spring rigging is held together mainly by the spring tension. I have made model spring rigging this way, but it can be a real fiddle to assemble. I have made it another way and that's to pin the leaf springs, links, and equalizers together. You stuff it in the truck frame wiggle it into place, then pop in the axle boxes and you are good to go. You'll see what I'm talking about later on. Here is the commonwealth truck that I will be modeling. There were many different commonwealth trucks. Some had only leaf springs. This one has coils at the four corners with leaf springs over the axle boxes. Some had leaves and coils, and some had coil springs only. The wheel base also varied wildly.
Jack
Commonwealth.jpeg
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