3/4" Scale J1e

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Harold_V
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by Harold_V »

If you don't know, jewelry supply houses sell a wide variety of slotting saws. I haven't purchased any in many years, but they used to be quite affordable. The reason I make mention is that very narrow blades are available. I've used .010" blades, as an example. If you make a simple setup, the cut can be made with a mill so there's adequate control over the location and depth of the cut. A mandrel can easily be spared damage that way.

H
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Bill Shields
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by Bill Shields »

Still available...

Am I the only person who has attached a Dremel or my favorte a Precise die grinder to a lathe tool post holder and used it like a tool post grinder/saw?

The Precise grinder has a nice long cylindrical nose that is easy to clamp....and avoid the mandrel grindies..
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SteveM
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by SteveM »

Bill Shields wrote: Wed Aug 10, 2022 5:31 am Am I the only person who has attached a Dremel or my favorte a Precise die grinder to a lathe tool post holder and used it like a tool post grinder/saw?
No, we used one with a polishing wheel to polish the nail axles on Pinewood Derby cars.

Steve
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by Greg_Lewis »

Bill Shields wrote: Wed Aug 10, 2022 5:31 am Am I the only person who has attached a Dremel or my favorte a Precise die grinder to a lathe tool post holder and used it like a tool post grinder/saw?

Another no. When my Dremel died I bought a Proxxon. A much better tool. The nose is set up for a holder which you can buy or make in about a half hour or less.
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rmac
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by rmac »

Yet another no. This is when I found that my Dremel has about .005" of runout. That surprised me, given how fast those things turn.
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Bill Shields
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by Bill Shields »

Only .005?
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rmac
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by rmac »

That's what I remember. It was a while ago.
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Bill Shields
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by Bill Shields »

I am surprised it was that low.. I have had new out of the box units at twice that.

In a couple of cases it was the collet chuck, not the spindle...


Think about one of those cut off wheels, spinning at whatever RPM, with that much run out...all held by an ittsy bittsy little screw.

Always wear a face mask :mrgreen:
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Greg_Lewis
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by Greg_Lewis »

Bill Shields wrote: Wed Aug 10, 2022 5:19 pm Always wear a face mask :mrgreen:

Years ago on the net I saw a photo of a guy who got his face rearranged when a bench grinding wheel shattered at some 3400 ± rpm. After that I ordered a full-face shield and it goes on every time, no exceptions, no excuses.
Greg Lewis, Prop.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
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Bill Shields
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by Bill Shields »

I have been that way since old enough to walk. One of my father's classmates at Purdue back in the late 1920's was killed by a grinding wheel that came apart and hit him in the neck.

Then in the 1970's a fellow I worked with in the middle east was killed by a grinding stone that he put in a die grinder that ran it entirely too fast...hit him in forehead and was DOA.
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Dick_Morris
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by Dick_Morris »

A Foredom flexible shaft hand piece fits nicely into the 1" Aloris BXA boring bar holder for a lathe. I haven't used it yet but have tried it for fit. One down side is that they don't turn very fast compared to a Dremal or air die grinder.
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
Interesting additions to this thread. I have often wondered about grinding wheels coming unglued. That would not be a good day. Here is a bit concerning making eye bolts. The ones made here have a #1-72 thread.
Tender53.jpeg
Here the parts have been tinned with silver solder.
Tender54.jpeg
Now the parts are ready to be joined. A small jewelers propane torch was used for this.
Tender55.jpeg
And here is the result. Now for a swim in the acid pot.
Tender56.jpeg
And now the eye bolt will be joined to the chain. You can see that wire cutters have been used to cut the link.
Tender57.jpeg
And here is the soft soldered link. A slitting saw is a perfectly good way of separating the links, and if the links are not to be soldered that would definitely be the way to go. Here you can see how the solder filled the gap quite nicely. The trick is to have the right amount of solder on the soldering iron. As said before the links should be clean and fluxed. Just touch the link with the soldering iron, half a second should do. All my links did not turn out as good as this one.
Tender58.jpeg
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